I have an old counterbalance loom that I keep tweaking to work better.  Both the back and breast beams have grooves worn by years of rug warp used by previous owners of the loom.  I suspect the wood is pine, not a hardwood.  I have been using the loom with the grooved beams for several years with no trouble, but I have been weaving narrow projects using cotton yarn, and not high tension.  Now I am planning a wide project using linen yarn, and it is time to smooth out those beams.  Sanding is a given, but what kind of finish?  The loom looks like it has a mahogany stain or lacquer, with dark color and a firm hard surface.  In the grooves, the wood is a sort of coffee-and-cream color with fine splinters.  I would appreciate any product suggestions.   Thanks in advance for your help.

Karen

Comments

Dawn McCarthy

Another option is adding a "beam guard"  Glimakra sells beam protectors made from metal, I have used plastic corner guards from the hardware store which work well.  The key is finding something with a rounded angle to it.

Dawn

ReedGuy

If it is not softwood, it sounds like it could also be birch. The corners/edges of birch can fray/splinter easier than hard maple. I once built an oval coffee table from birch that was a bit of a challege to get the corners smooth without splinters lifting. The wood was select grade, not a knot or check.

However, try to identify your finish before applying new. Know any experienced woodworkers around?

sandra.eberhar…

You  get a much smoother surface, and get it faster if you use a plane or a planer on it.  If you don't have this equipment, or know anyone who does, look for custom woodworking or cabinetmaking shops.  A planer can give you a mirror finish in minutes; you could spend hours and lots and lots of sandpaper to do it.

Karen6

Thanks Dawn - I have ordered one aluminum beam protector from Vavstuga for the back beam.  

Thanks also Reed Guy - next week I will send the front beam to carpentry class with my husband and let him discuss wood type and finish with the teacher.  I'll let you know what it turns out to be.

Karen

Karen6

Thanks to you as well, Big White Sofa Dog - Depending on what the carpentry teacher says about the existing wood and finish on the front beam, that may very well be the next step.  

I appreciate everyone's suggestions!

Karen

Dawn McCarthy

The nice thing about the beam protector is once you have repaired the beam and if you are weaving items with heavy tension, it will prevent the grooves from re occurring.

Dawn

Karen6

The carpentry teacher said the wood on the beams is fir, a soft wood. Soft wood, plus the fact that my Dad used the loom to weave rugs, explains the grooves.  The finish is lacquer.  New lacquer has been applied to finish the sanded wood, but the surface will mostly be protected by the new beam protector from now on.  

This old loom is probably 65 or 70 years old, maybe more, and still weaves just fine.  Thanks to all of you for helping me keep her going.

Karen