Warping is not going as it should, but that is another story.

I have been using cheap Dollar Store cotton twine for rug warp.  By the time I get the loom dressed, the warp looks like it has gone through the mill.  Perhaps that is to be expected with cheap cord.  I know next to nothing about weaving and and even less about rug making.  What should I be using for rug warp?

Thanks...

Comments

Sat, 03/08/2014 - 07:09

Yvonne K

I sometimes used soft cotton as a beginner, and the rugs just didn't last on the floor. I then used linen rug warp, but it ,too, was not stongly twisted and wore out, especially on the ends. I have learned to use good quality cotton seine twine which gives you excellent tension on the loom and long wearing on the floor.

Sat, 03/08/2014 - 13:13

oldfanny

Thanks Yvonne.  I haven't tried cotton seine twine, but believe I know where I can get it.  Rug making is a new adventure and an adventure it is turning out to be.  I know that there is a lot of information out there on warping a loom, but somehow, the process seems to escape me.  If I can get past the warping part of it, weaving would be fun.

Thanks again...Allan

Sat, 03/08/2014 - 13:40

oldfanny

One supplier offers seine cotton rug warp in two sizes or weights:  #6 cotton/polyester and #9 cotton.  Which would be the better of the two?

Thanks...

Sat, 03/08/2014 - 14:03

tommye scanlin

About seine twine, I think the answer of what size would be better would sort of depend on the weft you're using for the weft.  Are you doing rag strips?  Are you using wool?  Do you want a totally weft-coverage rug?  There are other sizes of seine twine, as well.  You might inquire with Joanne Hall at Glimakra USA for a sample of the seine twines she has... they range in size from small to larger.  Also, the 12/6 size comes in several colors.  

My use of seine twine is primarily for tapestry weaving which is weft faced.  The warp has to be quite strong since it's put at high tension for weaving.  However, I have used the 12/6 seine twine when doing rag rug and runner pieces.  When doing weft-faced rugs in bound weaves I've used a bit heavier warp, 12/9 or 12/12 in seine twine, or rug linen, 8/4 or 8/5.

Good luck with your weavings!

Tommye

Sat, 03/08/2014 - 16:19

Ann A

Have you looked for online resources on warping the loom? The videos by Ashford that are on youtube really helped me, although the demo was on a small table loom, but I know there are others out there for larger looms. 

Sat, 03/08/2014 - 22:35

Yvonne K

I have woven woollen rugs using 12/9 seine twine - I assume that is the same as #9. The twine is made of a number of strands twisted, or plied, together and the number indicates the total number of strands.

Polyester added to the yarn should not affect its behaviour in the warp and should increase its wearability.

 

Sun, 03/09/2014 - 01:27

oldfanny

Thanks all for our comments.  I am doing anothor denim rug.  I'm using a 10 dent reed, sleyed every second dent.  I have found some very good YouTube videos on warping and I think I have the process worked out in my mind, but somehow the practical part escapes me once I get the warp off the board.  I generally end up with a tangle in the process.  Maybe in time.  I have nine yards warped now with Dollar Store cotton twine so that will keep me busy for a bit.  In the meantime I'll look into getting some proper rug warp.

Thanks again...I appreciate the help.

 

Sun, 03/09/2014 - 02:01

pammersw

Do you chain it as you take it off the warping board? It's like your arm is a giant crochet hook.

Sun, 03/09/2014 - 21:14

oldfanny

pammersw...

I have chained warp, but with this last warp, I did not.  I tied off each bundle at about 20 threads and then laid the whole length out on the floor.  My problems started when I approached the loom.  I think one of the biggest mistakes I made was that I was getting too anxious to get the warp on the loom that I untied and lost the cross, although I don't know how a cross could get lost.  Whatever happened, I ended up with twisted warp.  After considerable effort, I did manage to salvage all but the last foot or so of a 9 yard warp.  Most of the recommendations I read suggests to warp back to front.  I have done it both ways and not sure which is easiest.  I have a raddle, but it doesn't fit in my beater the way it should, so I find it easier to use the reed.  This time I went from front to the back, through the reed and then through the heddles and tied at the back.  I find that way I get the warp spaced evenly at the back.  When I was doing it the other way, I was tieing at the back, threading the heddles, sleying the reed, tieing to the front and then winding to the front and then back again to space out the warp at the back.  Watching videos makes warping look so simple and I'm sure that it becomes that way with more practice.  So I keep at it...maybe one day it will click and I'll have one of those eureka moments when everything will go the way it should.

I do enjoy reading comments you and others post and find weaving most interesting...actually the weaving part, I find quite relaxing...getting there is another thing.

 

   

 

Sun, 03/09/2014 - 21:37

theresasc

If you are able to get a hold of Handwoven, Nov/Dec 2001, it is all about warping.  I was lucky enough to get this issue when I first started weaving, and the directions and pictures for warping back to front has never failed me - provided I followed each and every step.  There are no shortcuts, you have to keep everything in order and when you do, the warp goes on smooth as can be.  I have not come across too many publications that have helped to do something as much as that issue.

Mon, 03/10/2014 - 07:04

CelticCats

Check out Interweaves website. There are videos and ebooks and the Handwoven Nov/Dec 2004 magazine with lots of information on warping. I am planning my very first warp tomorrow. Nervous, but anxious. Did lots of research on the net and feel fairly confident that it will go smoothly. Good luck with your next warp.
Mon, 03/10/2014 - 07:40

Robin Monogue

I found the Craftsy class on floor loom weaving to be a great introduction, and it covers warping back to front very thoroughly. Classes go on sale from time to time, so keep an eye out at Craftsy.com. I also find Peggy Osterkamp's book Weaving for Beginners to be very helpful.
Mon, 03/10/2014 - 16:02

Ann A

before you take it to the loom. The ashford warping video on youtube suggests that you space out the warp threads on the raddle before tying the raddle to the back beam (for back to front). It also has a number of great "safety first" tips that will prevent the tangle you describe, the most important one being the use of lease sticks to preserve the threading cross. She also demos making a "raddle cross" that facilitates getting the warp threads all nicely organized in the raddle. You might also want to get some experience with an easier warp, one that is not so long and easier to handle, before going to a more ambitious project. I just warped up an 8" scarf with knitting yarn (not too springy) and I was amazed at how easy it seemed after my last project, which was in 10/2 cotton and 430 ends! I am a newbie too!

Tue, 03/11/2014 - 12:40

oldfanny

Thanks each of you for taking time to follow this thread and respond.  Loom and I have taken a break from one another the past couple of days.  Loom is warped and I have come home with enough material to make a rug for one of our daughters.  Work will interfere the next few days, but hopefully in the evenings I will get reacquainted with loom.  Orders keep coming for more rugs and as a novice, it becomes overwhelming, especially when the novice hasn't got it all figured out yet himself. 

Each of you make good points which I will try to remember when I attempt my next warp.  I have 9 yards on now, so unless I mess up big time, it will be awhile before I put on the next.  

And this poses another question.  The warp I have on will do 24" rugs.  I have an order for a wider rug.  I will either have to wait until I finish the warp I have on, or once this next rug is finished, cut the warp and load on a wider one, or use this warp and work in a few extra warp threads on each side to do one rug.  Has anyone ever added a few extra warp threads to do a wider project in the middle of narrower ones?  

Thanks again.