Anyone happen to know where there are good plans for a small floor loom - 36" jack type - preferably with front and back beams that fold for storage? I'd like to start with 4 shafts and expand to 8 in a year or two.

Thanks!

 

 

Comments

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 19:01

SallyE (not verified)

Since this is for your own use, why don't you just use the loom you are renting now as a model and build one much the same?

 

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 20:38

pammersw

That's option 2, but I'd like something a little sturdier.  The Baby Wolf feels a little lightweight sometimes. Plus I'd like ideas on how to handle a wider width, from around 25" weaving width to around 36" weaving width. For instance:

Do I need a second rachet on the cloth beam, and a second brake on the warp beam?

It's easy to see those things from plans and adopt what I like.

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 20:16

pammersw

P.S. Option 3 involves overcoming my shyness and cold calling a bunch of guild mates I don't know in order to find out who might have a similar loom I could look at, then inviting myself over with tape measure and camera in hand. That option is Very Uncomfortable to me!

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 22:19

sequel (not verified)

Why not just keep an eye out for a used Kessenich?  It's an X-frame, like the Wolf looms, but very sturdy.  Not lightweight, but that's why it's so tough.  Most of the plans out there are for either counterbalanced looms or the kind with a lifting mechanism composed of ropes and pulleys above the shafts, like Harrisville or Newcomb Studio.

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 22:21

SallyE (not verified)

I have never seen a loom with two rachets on a single beam.  Sometimes the teeth are finer than at other times, and sometimes there are two pawls, but never two ratchets.   I think you are over-thinking this and making yourself nevrous.   As for sturdyness, that is something you usually give up a little when you have a loom that folds, so just make one with a frame that doesn't fold by adding supports.   That is really easy.   The strongest shape is a triangle, so making a folding loom sturdy is really easy - just add a cross piece and you are done.

 

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 23:11

ReedGuy

The double ratchets are used on very wide looms, like 72" or more in width, one on each end of the roller. I think Sarah has mentioned this before. You can imagine tension on a very wide loom warp roller is tremendous. I have 62" and any that wide I see on here, only have one per roller. So don't worry about 36". You can buy one or have a shop with plasma cutter make one. I had mine cut, but you will be fine with those sold with similar looms to the one you have in mind. Get good steel for the ratchet to. Cast iron is fragile and the teeth might break if the ratchet end went for a tumble while moving. Snap, there goes a tooth or two. The good thing about mine is the ratchet and handle have to be removed anyway to take the loom apart. Held with a square peg in the roller shaft. ;)

Realize to, that a jack loom gets harder to treadle with more shafts than 4. Something like a counter loom is much easier to treadle. Just the weight of your foot, because everthing is weight balanced in the design. Your foot tips the scale, so to speak. ;)

All this talk of loom assembly reminds me that I have to move mine to the other house this spring.

I don't know of any free plans pammersw, except very old out of date looms and they are very sketchy in details.

Tue, 03/04/2014 - 00:03

SallyE (not verified)

Before you get too far into this, have you looked at the cost of hard wood like maple?  Unless you REALLY want to build a loom look into this before you get too far into it.   It's almost certinally going to be less expensive to buy a used one.

Double ratchet - I have a 60" loom that was built with only one ratchet.  I've never seen a 72" loom, but I can imagine how they would require 2 ratchets.

 

Tue, 03/04/2014 - 00:23

ReedGuy

Here is a piece Joanne Hall wrote back in 1998

Jack Looms

This link may be a starting point LINK for plans

Good kilned select grade maple runs around $3.50 a board foot (not running foot) for 8/4 stock and price drops with 6/4 and 4/4  as well as with lengths under 8' . That's here in the north east where maple grows as common as weeds. Cherry can be had for the same prices in certain areas and it has a wider growing range than hard maple, it actually grows as far south as Mexico. You can also make do with soft maple species as well or birch species like white birch. It doesn't have to be the hardess densest closed grain wood. White birch is lighter and less dense than maple yet strong and a lot more abundant. Where I live here, hard maple grows everywhere except a swamp.

Tue, 03/04/2014 - 01:17

pammersw

Where I live, there are very few looms offered for sale, and those are usually at about 80% of their "new" price - way more than I can afford. I don't mind paying for good plans. Finding good wood might be hard but it seems to me, do-able.

Tue, 03/04/2014 - 06:22

ReedGuy

I'm sure there is lots of suitable wood where you live Pammersw. I would avoid Home Depots, their prices are sky high for hardwood lumber because it's all been dressed and high graded for someone that wants just a board or two. If you had the right contacts with wholesalers that have warehouses of lumber or even portable band millers that saw wood to sell that is actually graded and dry, that would help. It's hard for those without the contacts and a place to build stuff or good wood working skills. Or even the skills to know whether a piece of lumber is worth the effort and won't have a high probability to warp, twist and check once it's in a heated room. ;)

I've always been lucky here because of sawmills and a local wholesaler.

Tue, 03/04/2014 - 13:24

debmcclintock

Have you seen the Flying 8 plans? I have not seen plans for the one you specify but if you have these plans moray be you could modify them? http://www.moeller-hamburg.com/c/English
Tue, 03/04/2014 - 14:33

Dawn McCarthy

I agree with Sally E, unless you have lots of loom parts readily available, some parts that may not easily be home built for the average DIY'er (such as ratchets for the beams) may be costly.  There are many used looms that come up on places like Craigslist for a couple hundred and just need a cleaning.  Of course I recommend taking a person familiar with looms to verify it is in good enough condition.  The cost of wood and extraneous parts will add to a couple hundred and if you are patient, the right priced loom will show up.

Dawn

Tue, 03/04/2014 - 15:18

pammersw

In the last six months there was One (!) used loom for an affordable price ($300) and it was only on Craigslist for a few hours. I was a little too late responding to that one. The others have been nearly  $1000 to $6000. Apparently,  used looms are made of gold around here. ;/

Wood could be an issue. We got some decent oak last summer for the inkle loom we made, but it wasn't cheap. The high desert southwest isn't known for its forests and wood mills ;) and it's all imported. Most of it twists or warps a little after being cut down from larger boards (ie, 2x4s and 2x6s). Only the pricey oak boards haven't done that.

I saw the Flying 8 for the first time a few days ago. That is an unusual looking loom! I think it's rather large, too, from the pictures. At 59 Euros, plans are around $86 I think it was, so I won't buy them unless I decide I really like that loom. It's a bit too much otherwise. 

In the last couple of years,  my boyfriend and I have built a yurt and a plywood boat. He is currently working on a wood-frame kayak. While we are not fine furniture makers,  we do ok. And a loom project would allow me to buy a router. I've been wanting one for 30 years. ;)

Tue, 03/04/2014 - 20:39

Dawn McCarthy

Seivers sells loom plans, table & floor looms - the plans are very well written/drawn and relatively inexpensive.

Dawn

 

Tue, 03/04/2014 - 21:08

pammersw

Dawn, is that something you have to email about? I didn't see anything on their website. 

Tue, 03/04/2014 - 22:42

ReedGuy

You forget your in the US, native hardwood lumber is shipped all over the continent. It is hardly considered imported, it's just crossing state lines. There are wood workers, cabinet makers, home builders using it every day even in California. You just have to know where to go pick it up and if it's graded out and not just mill run with mixed grades in one stack. The reason why good lumber costs more is it's graded for one, and maybe a couple other value added processes before you get it. Often just rough, but at least kilned. A climate controlled facility will have pricier lumber than one out in a shack that isn't climate controlled and even if dried to 6%, it could now be 16% out in the ordinary air. Moisture moves in and out of lumber like changes in the seasons if not  climate controlled. If you have the skills to build a loom that is one thing and if there are decent priced looms for sale is another. Around here where I live, you would have about 0 chance to find one for sale.

Tue, 03/04/2014 - 23:19

barleycorn

Are you familiar with the web site kbbspin.org? I thought I saw a nice loom a few weeks ago for sale in Mesa, Ariz. The front range of Colo. is very populated with looms, might be worth the drive. I don't exactly know your location. 

Tue, 03/04/2014 - 23:46

pammersw

I'm in Albuquerque.  Mesa's around 8 hours by freeway, Denver 7 hours.

Our normal humidity here is around the low teens,  so wood tends to shrink,  not swell. :)

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 00:12

ReedGuy

Yes, generally that would be the trend in that humidity, but up here it's farely constant around 70% when you look at the changing seasons and month to month, so MC% of wood is around 16% as a rule of thumb if not climate controlled. But wood is hygroscopic, so mosture is always on the move in wood, in or out. It's the bound water that makes the difference, and what we are talking about. Green wood does not change volume or shrink, only when loosing bound water when dropping below fibre saturation, which is around 30% for our native woods. The thing is, if wood is kilned to 6% there are not many places that will stop it from gaining mositure from the outside air. Then when humidy drops for a spell water exits the wood.

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 00:15

ReedGuy

Travelling all over the continent tracking down a loom is not my cup of tea. And probably not pammersw's either. :D

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 00:40

barleycorn

It all depends on how quickly you want to start weaving, building could take months verses buying within a reasonable distance and weaving  soon after getting it put back together. Good wood would be cost prohibative to purchase in or near Albuquerque.

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 01:03

Dawn McCarthy

pammersw - Hmm, I purchased plans about 6 years ago and I also cannot find them on their site.  Perhaps try emailing them for more info, the plans were very clear and would make it easier to build.

Dawn

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 01:42

sandra.eberhar…

When you mention that used looms seem to be very expensive - just because someone asks $1000 for a four harness counterbalance loom doesn't mean they're going to get it.  You see people doing that all the time on Ebay because they've found out that it costs $2000 new and figure that it's that valuable.  If you do decide to make one, you need to have all your wood very smooth or it will catch threads.  That expensive milled lumber at Home Depot starts to look cheaper when you look at having it milled or getting a planer.  One thing that you may note is that of all the replies you have had, most of the people that have been most active in producing and modifying looms and other equipment are suggesting a used loom instead of building your own.  That would be my advice also, and I have seen lots of looms for sale in the Southwest.  Watch the used equipment pages and Ebay.

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 03:12

ReedGuy

bigwhite makes a good point for those without the tools and knowledge. But for those with them and knowledge of good wood and available wood at reasonable prices then it's not an obstical. It just takes skills, time and gumption.

To draw comparisons, locally an 8' x 8" x 1" kilned and dressed birch, or even oak, in a do it your self centre is sold by the piece or linear foot. It's not sold by the board foot (5-1/3 board feet), and can be well over $100 a piece. Locally I can take that $100 and shop for rough, kilned, select, say hard maple, 8/4 thick (which allows for planing to get 2" thick), 6-1/4" wide (it will be random width), 8'-6" long for trim allowance, which is a full 8 board feet. This gives me almost 4 planks and not a knot in any of it. If I ask for mill cutoffs under 8', but maybe at least 6' long, the price per board foot is about half. So when you look at it that way, in dollars and sense, how many planks that I saved on price will it take to buy a $400 planer? When I compare apples to apples, a 4/4 board, 8" wide, 8' long ,same board footage as home depot, just needs planing, for $10 bucks, so I get 10 boards for the $100. And a well enough built $400 home owners planer will last 15+ years. Now again that is a route for those interested in wood working and not a one chance deal with tools left that will never hardly be used again. Yes a used loom can be bought someplace for say $500, but is it 50 miles from here or 1200? Most just want to get weaving, which is fine, so you wait it out for the price or you pay full price for new. New is the price you pay for having it right now, used or building your own with the skills are both essentailly waiting it out and is always cheaper.

As they say knowledge is power, availability of material helps a lot to. Some have a passion for both wood working and weaving, and some have it for either or. Those that have it for both surely aren't the losers. You get lots of toys to make more toys, and once aquired pay dividends, big time. :)

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 05:09

pammersw

I've done some woodworking throughout my life, including lots of refinishing to a satin-smooth finish. And I'd really rather not spend a weekend driving, $200 in gas, and meals and lodging, just to go look at a loom that may or may not work for me. Not my idea of fun. :(

That said, yes, an affordable nearby used loom would be best, but I've been looking since September without luck. As a two day trip is out of the question, as is a new loom, or shipping a loom long distance,  making my own is the next option to consider. 

Thank you for the feedback.

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 13:02

sandra.eberhar…

If you are bent on making your own, I have a book that may have plans you could use.  I'm not at home now, but will get you the info when I get back next week.  Your earlier question about double brakes and ratchets?  I have a Kebec that is 8' wide and has ratchets and brakes on each side of the warp and cloth beams.  I have a 4' rug loom that will maintain a very high warp tension that has ratchets on both cloth and warp beams, but only on the right side of each.  That you think you might want to put double ratchets on such a small loom is one reason people have been suggesting you buy.  Another option would be to find someone with a 36" Tools of the Trade loom to measure.  They are made fairly simply, are sturdy and work very well.  Reed Guy's notes about getting local hadwood are very good, but I'm not sure what kind of local hardwood production you have there.  There is a reason most production loom companies (Woolhouse, Leclerc, Kessinich, Schacht) are located in the north.  You can make excellent looms out of pine.  Glimakra has been doing it for a long time, and I have a great loom made of Georgia yellow pine.  You have to use bigger pieces, and no carriage bolts.

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 13:51

pammersw

Thank you big sofa dog. As far as I know, there is no lumber production of any kind in New Mexico.  We just don't have the forests for it. I'll look forward to hearing more about the book.

(The Baby Wolf and the Voyageur are the only looms I've woven on. I know I'd like to own something wider so I could do a doubleweave blanket, big enough for a double bed, but I've never used one to know what it was like. Hence the misconceptions about double rachets, brakes, and such. I'm relieved to know those will not be necessary at all for a loom in the 36" to 42" range.)

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 15:58

ReedGuy

A lot of these wholesalers warehouse lumber and often shorter mill ends are in the shipments. My local source here had lots of local maple and birch, but walnut and cherry was imported from Ohio and Penn, a good 900 miles. So stuff can still be there, if you have knowledge of the people selling it and where. These outfits will often further process lumber for big clients or take walk in from hobby wood workers. Sometimes they even bring green lumber in and kiln it liek this locla place did, they had 3 kilns and bought from local hardwood mills. Not much from small bandmillers, because they didn't know much about grade. Some do, but a bunch more don't. Just because it doesn't grow there, does not inhibit availability or price. I've talked to various folks across the US and hard maple at the time was $3.50 kilned and 8/4 just about everywhere with little variance. Hard maple stands of timber are scarce once you get below Virginia. The range gets spotty and scattered. Lots of soft maple, but they have no maple ridges like up here and it's 1200 miles from here to the tip of Goergia. Just a for instance. They are more inclined to use red maple, silver maple or cherry, but hard maple even shipped down there isn't much different in price. Oak is in abundance down there, but I think it's open pore grain makes it very much prone to snaging yarn.

According to Glamikra's site they use white birch which is pretty much in the north temperate regions around the globe or a close cousin.

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 16:43

tommye scanlin

You might want to ask through your local library for interlibrary loan of these two books to see if the plans might suit your needs:

Loom Construction by Jeri Hjert and Paul Von Rosenstiel

The Loom Book by Tim Reed

Also, have you taken a look at this pdf from the Univ. of Arizona's site:

http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/webdocs/df1_loom.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 16:58

pammersw

Yes, I've seen the university document. That's a pretty big loom! I will look for the other books.

As to local wood sources - Other than big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot), as far as I know, all we have is a Woodworkers Warehouse,  which tends to be very expensive. 

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 18:29

jander14indoor (not verified)

OK, I'll admit my experience is 20 years old, but when I lived in Albuquerque back then I had no trouble finding hardwood lumber at a number of places and prices weren't that bad.  I agree buying wood at Woodworkers Warehouse might not be smart, but...

Hmm, checking internet, have you tried:

http://www.abqhardwoods.com/  I think this is the place I remember.

http://www.abqexoticwoods.com/

Southwestern Lumber Sales

As to specialty items. 

Ratchet wheel, consider 8-10 inch circular saw blades, the all steel type, rip blades (fewer teeth).  You don't need expense of carbide tips.  You might even want to dull them to avoid cutting yourself or being hard on your ratchet.  Or stacking for more width.

Heddles, I tied up a new set of string heddles for my Cranbrook 1600+ on a jig one winter watching TV.  As usual, trade off time vs money.  But I can't sit and watch TV with empty hands anyway.

Other than that, I really don't see anything a capable woodworker couldn't make (in some form) on my big Cranbrook or my daughter's Leclerc Fanny (a very sturdy loom with much smaller footprint than my Cranbrook) and not much I couldn't replicate on my Baby Wolf. 

I'm not saying it will be cheap, but what alternative works for you of course depends on your circumstances and interests.  Time vs money.  If I really wanted I could have bought the second set of four shafts, treadles, etc for my Cranbrook, but the woodworking was an interesting project of itself.  Yes I saved a lot of dollars, but it wouldn't have paid for my time if I didn't enjoy the project of itself.

Jeff Anderson

Livonia, MI

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 19:13

Bonnie Inouye (not verified)

Sometimes a seller will meet a buyer half-way. I gave a workshop in Mesa, AZ last month and learned that there are 5 active guilds in the Phoenix area and other guilds near Sedona and other towns that are popular for retirement. Looms become available as people downsize. Santa Fe is also popular for retirement, so maybe there are looms there?

On the other hand, it sounds like you would enjoy building a loom. That gives you the chance to select the attributes that you prefer from several brands, assuming you can try some out in person or at least ask loom owners.

If your local guild has a yahoo list or other way to communicate, you could post with your request. Many weavers are happy to share what they know.

Good luck!

Bonnie

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 21:26

ReedGuy

Albuqurque hardwoods was what I was going to suggest as one place. It's not really that difficult to find hardwood at decent prices, at least similar to what the rest of us pay. Just takes some research and asking about. You are in the USA not on the moon. :) If prices seem high, ask around. You know prices do fluctuate and your are looking for good lumber to boot. And if you still consider it high, than I guess you want build a loom.

Building your own loom means you will also understand how the loom is suppose to work by the time it's complete. A loom is a simple machine and you will soon realize it. :)

 

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 23:13

sandra.eberhar…

There is a Tools of the Trade for sale on Ebay with good pictures that can give you some idea of what you might want to do.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tools-of-the-Trade-54-Wide-Floor-Loom-Collapsable-8-Harness-2-Reeds-with-Bench-/181342048643?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a38d41183

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 23:42

pammersw

Thanks, everyone,  I did not know about those wood sources! I think we might go check them out for this spring's kayak and canoe projects as well. I will also take a look at the mentioned books.

I want to try so many weaving projects, and the 4 shaft baby wolf is beginning to feel a little bit limited (I know it can do lots, but, I want to do more!)

Wed, 03/05/2014 - 23:45

pammersw

I loke the looks of the toot loom, maybe a foot or  foot and a half narrower...!

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 00:51

mneligh

Something like "The Spinning,Weaving and Dyeing Book" has diagrams and as I recall measurements.  It starts you out on backstrap and prgresses via tapestry to floor looms, or some such evolution.  I would agree with those that say that it may cost you more to build than to buy used.

The ReedGuy should know -- unless I have him confused with someone else, he built a beautuful Swedish-style loom not that long ago.

I understand that you may be moving, however.  If so, you may end up in an area of the country where used looms, or at least beautiful hardwoods, grow on trees.  Having moved a large loom more than once, I can tell you it is less painful to wait.  Since you're in the SouthWest, why not build a Navajo-style loom for the duration?

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 03:06

Sara von Tresckow

1. There are lots of looms in New Mexico - you should probably look more in the Santa Fe or Taos neighborhoods, but used looms do come up for sale. The weaving center in Espanola brokers used looms.

2. As far as I know, there have never been really good plans for jack looms - each branded loom is constructed differently and getting the parts that are not wood can be time consuming and costly. None of the plans that I've seen, including the Hjert/Rosenstiel book and the Sievers plans match the Gilmores, Schachts, Norwoods, etc. in terms of quality and performance.

3. Just FYI - my husband built me a replica (with modifications) of the Navajo loom used at the Hubbell Trading Post (pictured on my web site

http://woolgatherers.com/PLANSPAGE.html#NAVAJO

He used hard maple, and though it is a very simple loom, the pipes and wood as well as materials for the warping frame cost around $500.

4. The Flying 8 really works and can be made in any desired width. We purchased the plans and have had some communication with Andreas and it is a very genial construction. You cannot expect to weave on a quality full sized loom for no investment on your part.

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 03:37

pammersw

Shoot, I'm not expecting no investment on my part! I'm expecting (or hoping for) $300 to $500 plus sweat equity, which is what I can afford. I can't afford $1000-plus.

I want to do traditional weaving, not Navajo weaving.

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 03:50

Sara von Tresckow

Maybe you should consider what many of us have already done - save up for a while to afford something nice. You get into weaving one piece at a time. And depending on your level of experience, novice weavers tend to build unwanted features into home built equipment.

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 04:11

pammersw

I need the loom (equipment) in order to make stuff to sell. If I tried to save up for it, it could be decades. My income has been going negative relative to expenses over the last 18 years. There's nothing left over to save. 

I might be otherwise tempted to add unnecessary features,  I don't know.  That's why I'm asking advice.  I'd rather start with a known, workable design rather than make one up on my own. With a known design,  there wouldn't be extra features. 

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 04:18

pammersw

P.S. I forget who said it, but when I ask about a jack type floor loom, to suggest a Navajo loom instead, just because I happen to be in the southwest right now, would be like suggesting to an oil painter that they switch to watercolors because watercolors are cheaper and dry faster. The two techniques are vastly different from each other, in both weaving and painting.

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 05:25

pammersw

I apologize if those last couple of messages came across as testy.

I've moved a lot, averaging every year or two. A loom, even one bigger than I'm planning to get or build, would not be any harder to move than my upright grand piano, with its huge metal plate, or my heavy cherry dresser. I always rent a truck and do my moves myself. No big deal.

And, I may or may not be moving from this area. That is still a complete unknown.

As such,  any potential move doesn't factor into the decision.  If I waited on everything "till after the move" I'd never get anywhere.  Life goes on between moves. I don't put my life on hold just because I "might" be moving.

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 09:11

ReedGuy

In my limited experience here, being new to weaving as well as building my own loom and support equipment, I've since been adding to my loom. And nothing so far (features) is unwanted. :)

At times, these threads often become more of a steering committee. And may sometimes irritate more than help. ;)

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 10:47

Andrew Kieran (not verified)

Reading about the difficulty of making a ratchet and pawl mechanism for someone with limited tools. I would replace said mechanism with a negative warp let-off motion.

By which I mean, tie a piece of rope onto a lower horizontal beam on the loom, take it around the warp beam several times then down the bottom and hang a weight.

 

Alternatively, take the hanging end and put on the shallow end of a long lever pivoted at the side vertical beam and hang the weight off the end.

 

This is much easier to do and I've seen looms in museums using this set up. Our industrial jacquard uses it too (albeit an advanced version of the same principle.). For wide looms, brakes can be set up on both sides.

 

Every time a ratchet breaks in the weave shed here I replace it with a negative let-off motion as we have lots of metal weights, lots of rope and no equipment for making new ratchets. Also, it's a better system as you get more consistent tension.

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 10:56

ReedGuy

Yes, I also saw a loom (pictures) in France using this as well. The warp roller was huge and so was the drum that the weight hung off.

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 12:57

jlread (not verified)

I recall a post awhile back that you were moving...maybe you should wait till you get settled...then look for a loom !

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 15:06

Andrew Kieran (not verified)

Hi ReedGuy, the warp roller needn't be huge. Our warp beams are normal size and it works just fine. I think the main advantage of wider warp beams is the ability to wind much longer warps without having to take account of edge slippage. There may be other mechanical advantages too of which I'm not aware.

 

I apologise for the sideways image. I don't have the means to quickly alter it at work. That's what I do to looms here when their ratchets break or start slipping. I've wrapped it again at the weighted end around the bottom horizontal bar, but that's mainly to add extra tension as polyprop isn't the most abrasive stuff in the world. If I had cotton rope to hand, this wouldn't be necessary I imagine. The old sectional warping wheel here uses a thick leather strap with the rough side to the wheel, which is very effective.

 

 

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 15:56

Dawn McCarthy

I installed warp weighted tension on my Glimakra (I had the luxury of having a brake drum from an old loom but just wrapping around the warp beam works also) pics are a pain to load but on my blog there are photos

bewove.com

It is a very simple and effective system, obviously higher tension requires more weight.  Looms can be relatively simple machines, breast beam height would be my biggest measurement factor, a non folding loom easier to construct than a folding.  

Dawn

 

Thu, 03/06/2014 - 16:29

ReedGuy

I didn't suggest that the beam had to be huge, I only said it was huge on that loom in the photo I saw. Two different things. ;) If you were in a steel worker and fabrication town, making ratchets from good steel that will last longer than a lifetime and not cost a fortune is a simple task. ;)

Dawn, I'm putting a brake drum on mine and just set light tension on the more slack warps I tend to use on it, like pile and padding threads. I will also have a ratchet and pawl used to put the warp on the beam and that would be pretty much it. Probably don't need it, but it's a back up plan. :)