Hi, I feel like a bit of a prat.. this is nowhere near the complexity of some of the masterpieces shown in this group.  ... but I did build it myself.

 

My wife was interested in me building her a Navajo loom.  She found some plans on line, but nothing we were satisfied with.  After many inspiring hours of looking, I started merging some of the plans and pictures into a hybrid.

What I came up with is a whopping 6' x 8' floor loom.  It has the rope tensioning mechanism at the top with a fixed bottom board.  One change is that I only took the legs 6" out the back so it could sit closer to the wall.  I also put 6" legs at the top corners so the whole thing can be tipped over and laid down to allow the warp to be put straight on it without a seperate warping frame.

It was quickly (on the 1st rug) fitted with a pole for heddle strings, currently supported with clamps, but I'm already planning rows of dowels the length of the uprights for the final design.

Any input would be appreciated, especially concerning the heddle bar.. don't really want to make it rigid, but stringing the warp pairs has been a hassle.

oh, yeah... does anyone know where to get 6'+ dowels and swords/shuttles?

Comments

Sun, 02/24/2013 - 05:39

Sara von Tresckow

You've got some parts missing - that's why the heddle bar is awkward.

You need to use a good book on Navajo weaving - Mary Walker has one, Noel Bennet's "Navajo Weaving Way", or Caroline Spurgeon's book on Navajo weaving (Cactus Flower Looms). Study the examples and you'll see what needs modification.

Guess what? Battens are usually no longer than 24" long for ease of use and are used on sections of the warp.

You're close, but as is, this will not be pleasant to work on.

Sun, 02/24/2013 - 14:21

trkeyfrm

Sorry Sara but I don't see what is missing.  Maybe it is hard to see in the image, but the heddle works fine, it is neither unpleasant nor awkward to work.  Setting up the continuous string heddle loops was the hassle.  I am using pvc for the bar.. I think that is the issue, that the loops spin on it (why i am looking for longer dowel rods).  On the length of the tools issue, I am using yardsticks for the shuttles, which is fine, but they don't reach all the way through.  Again, this is workable, but I think in this case longer would be a little better.

Thanks for the feedback,

Sun, 02/24/2013 - 15:52

sequel (not verified)

You don't need longer shuttles.  You use Lazy Lines - a manner of weaving where you weave a portion of the width at a time, then move yourself over and do some more.

Is your warp going over the upper and lower poles?  It's supposed to be lashed to these poles so that a 4 selvedge textile can be woven.

 

Sun, 02/24/2013 - 16:42

trkeyfrm

wow... and I thought the first comment was a little harsh - there is no need to yell.

This is my second rag rug on my first loom.  I am not making a tapesty.  It is not traditional.  There are no selvedges.  It is old shirts, continuous weft, with tassles.

I really do appreciate the feedback, but cut a guy some slack.

The biggest functional issue I seem to be having is that the poles or beams are pvc (and what I had to use since I cannot find 6' dowel rods for a decent price) and are allowing the warp to slide.

I have done quite a bit of research.. enough to know that I am not going to be producing anything remarkable without books, classes, etc.... but I am enjoying the doing of it despite the limitations of my loom and experience.

please keep the feedback coming,  have a joyful day..

Sun, 02/24/2013 - 18:00

MaryMartha

Trkeyfrm, could you say more about the type(s) of weaving you want to do and what specific challenges you are having?  You started by saying your wife was interested in Navajo-style weaving.  That, to me, suggests some very specific constraints, including a particular style of warping that your current loom can't accomodate.  Also, you need a way of bringing the heddles and the fell line (the current line of weaving) to the weaver (preferably), or bringing the weaver to them. The Noel Bennet book is very good about explaining ways to do this.  There are also loom plans on Mary Walker's Weaving in Beauty website, along with information about suppliers for battens, etc.

You said you looked at various plans, but this loom resembles more a turkish style fixed-heddle rug loom than a Navajo-style loom.  If your wife wants to pursue this, I heartily suggest you build her a smaller model to start, and one where there horizontal poles that hold the warp are detachable.  To give you an idea, my Dine'- made loom is 27" X 30" plus feet, and uses hardwood warp dowels that are 1.4" dia.  By the time she is ready to tackle something this large, you will know intimately the design accomodations you need to make.  Getting sufficiently rigid materials for such a large loom is still another hurdle. Galvanized aluminum pipe, maybe?

In the meantime, if you are enjoying weaving rag rugs on your loom, are getting reasonable tension, and are satisfied with the physical demands that having such a large loom imposes, by all means let us see the things you create.

Sun, 02/24/2013 - 18:50

trkeyfrm

The Navajo style of loom looked like a good start for my woodworking abilities, but we don't want to be constrained by the traditional requirements.  The first 2 rugs are posted as my projects.. please take a look.  I changed the stock design to allow the entire loom to be laid on its back to eliminate the need for a seperate warping frame, but the bottom warping beam could still be used.  It would use up a little more of the height, but since  I don't plan on removing the work until it is finished (and I only had so many pieces of pvc in the garage) warping to the bottom board is what I've done so far.  Since leaving tassels and not using selvages was what the wifey had in mind, I'm ok with it.  I will look at the Turkish designs.. haven't run across that yet.  The aluminum rods... yeah, but the point of this has been to keep the cost down (have a total of $32.00 in it so far).  I'm not positive what you mean by fixed-heddle, but the clamps and the string heddle will move from top to bottom (or.. bottom to top, hehe) and the rope tension thing at the top allows for the release of tension as the project progresses.  I would like to replace all of the pvc pieces with dowels, but what large ones I have found online are cost prohibitive.  The closest thing I have found in a store was made to be a railing, but it has a flat spot for the bottom.  That may not be a problem.. I was thinking that it might actually provide a spot for putting grooves for the warp.  The warp sliding on the pvc has been the biggest problem, but not too much to get me to pay for dowels, which I think would solve the problem.

Other than that, it has been more something to do for me (not so much my wife) while I am looking for a job (or rather when I am not looking for a job).  I am enjoying it, even if it is just rag rugs so far.  And it has been very theraputic as far as the exercise goes.  Gives me a reason to get off the couch and away from the job search on the computer (although it has caused a fair amount of computer time, too).

trkeyfrm

Mon, 02/25/2013 - 02:19

MaryMartha

Try twining  thick yarn between the warp threads at either end.  This will help stabilize and spread the warp to even out your spacing.  This step is part of the Navajo technique, but it is used elsewhere as well.  See Marla Mallett's website for a description.

Mon, 02/25/2013 - 05:18

BoyLearner

a better option may be second hand water pipe from a recycling place. I tried aluminium on a vertical rug weaving loom but the aluminium bent when a reasonable tension for knotted rugs was put on it; the water pipes work fine. I also got a piece of stainless steel pipe - about 2.5" diam for only a few dollars at the same place.

At my local spinners and weavers guild (Adelaide, Oz) they have a large tapestry loom which is made from the steel fittings used in construction scaffolding. That is rock-solid and similar to the plans on Archie Brennan's site: http://www.brennan-maffei.com/images/Looms/looms-scaffold.pdf

I consider my loom a work in progress and while it is functional as is, it will be modified as better ways to do things are found. I'm all for a combination of learn as you go and listening to the voice of others' experience.

Good luck and enjoy the journey.

Mon, 02/25/2013 - 15:51

trkeyfrm

I like the idea... using the adjustments from the scaffold.  would the holes be close enough?  When tension needs released, would you want to release that much?  maybe more holes, but when I have had to drop the top warp bar, it's only 1/4" or 1/2" right?

i like the sound of only a couple of dollars per pipe.  don't know where I would find that in my area..  there is a 2nd hand building materials store.  I'll look.  

the upper bar sliding isn't too bad, just the ends pulling in a little.  It's the slippage on the heddle bar that is a pain..even with the extra loop on each warp loop.  they slip back and forth and spin on it, making the heddles uneven.  It is much better on this 2nd rug, I didn't find out about putting a double loop on each until after I had already strung the heddles on the 1st one.

take care,

Mon, 02/25/2013 - 16:33

trkeyfrm

very  good info... thanks!  I had not found that site.  I had seen somewhere else show the non-continous heddles tied, but they were to be tied on and cut off (not reusable), so I went with the continous loops.  Identical loops that could be used from one project to another, I like it!  What material would be good for this?  The warp I am using is cotton and probably wouldn't hold up from project to project.   

also.. the typically suggested dimentions for the heddle bar, the shed stick and shuttles seem to not be practical on this loomzilla.  I am using a board that is 1/2" x 1 3/4" (x 6') for a shed stick.. I am thinking that more of a 1" x 3" (x 6') would open it more.  Keep in mind that the upper warp beam is 2" and I have not done the lashing or stitching thing yet.  Another thing is that the clamps I am using for the heddle bar provide 6" of distance from... (I don't know the term) the heddles "in" to them being pulled "out".  Should there be more?  I am getting the yardstick through when it is loaded with about 10 widths of strips of the shirts I am using, but as the individual heddle loops start straying, I am missing occasional strands..   I'm wondering, for one, because I need to iron that distance out before I try to figure out how long each heddle loop needs to be.

Thanks for your time & interest

 

Tue, 02/26/2013 - 22:07

ReedGuy

Wooden dowels are as expensive if not more than some pipes you can buy. I know an 8' -1" diameter dowel in the local hardware is $12. There is a huge mark-up on craft-fare. People think dollar store is a buy, $2 for 25 feet of foil....well $5 gets you 250 feet in the grocery store. ;)

 

Wed, 02/27/2013 - 17:20

trkeyfrm

what local harware store even has 8' lengths?

Wed, 02/27/2013 - 19:41

ReedGuy

Here in NB, it's at Kent Building Supplies.

I don't buy dowels though. I can make my own. The length of which is only limited by the length of the stock I shove through the Veritas dowel jig. :)

Just made 21 @ 6'6'' long for a drying rack.

Sun, 03/03/2013 - 16:14

trkeyfrm

ok... so having the top of the warp around the 2" pipe is becoming more and more of a problem as the weaving is approaching the top.  The spread is becoming harder to reverse with the heddle bar.  I have loop stitched it to the tension bar... would have been easier to do this to another bar in the first place.  The 3/4" pvc heddle bar having too much flex to it became an issue too... had to reinforce it with something rigid... an aluminum bar I found.  Again, a lot more time involved in the fix than if something rigid had been used in the first place.  

Tue, 03/05/2013 - 21:16

francorios (not verified)

Bravo! Nicely done! Have a joyful day!
Tue, 03/05/2013 - 21:39

ReedGuy

Who could complain about that rug? Looks like you made out fine. :)

Wed, 03/06/2013 - 00:14

ReedGuy

Do you put some of that non slip fabric under it like shelf lining so someone won't get a bad slip?

Wed, 03/06/2013 - 00:36

trkeyfrm

we have under some rugs in the past..  

i had to go check...  took a running start, and took a shot at it..   only moved it about an inch.    i think it'll be ok.    it is a wood floor, but we removed carpet from this room when we moved in.  didn't refinish it properly.   the pug can't get any traction, but i don't think anyone else has ever slid on it..  

Mon, 03/11/2013 - 03:03

trkeyfrm

would have liked 3 thinner ones for lease/heddles/etc,  but at about $5.50 each... went ahead and got 6 of them... doubled the cost of the loom so far.  they look great and even though they are fir, they are plenty strong enough to put enough tension on it.. with no flex.   a big upgrade from the pvc.

Mon, 03/11/2013 - 23:25

coastalgal (not verified)

Happy the suggestion worked.........where would we be without lumber yards and hardware stores!! Who need a Mall anyway??!!

What is your next project?

elaine

Mon, 03/11/2013 - 23:25

coastalgal (not verified)

Happy the suggestion worked.........where would we be without lumber yards and hardware stores!! Who need a Mall anyway??!!

What is your next project?

elaine

Tue, 03/12/2013 - 00:46

ReedGuy

Actually, some of the hardware stores and lumber yards around here we can do without. You could run all day and not find what you need. I usually just buy my wood working hand tools at Lee Valley and buy my wood direct from the mill or broker. Sand paper and screws at Lee Valley are 10x better and cost way less. :)

Tue, 03/12/2013 - 03:03

trkeyfrm

i have the length reconsiled, it will run from the bottom, over the top, and back to within 2' of the bottom.       with how much the others have pulled in from the starting width... i'm not sure what to start the width at.   even if i do string treadles to the sides to control it better, should i start it exactly on, or give it some extra?   ...can't decide.

haven't chosen any material either... out of old work polos.  have quite a denim collection, but not enough for that.    i like the bright colors of the polo shirts... maybe blend the denim with some thrift store shirts.    thinking of doing shorter strips instead of the wide bars this time.. so working in a blend might be nice.         don't know, but will be starting the warp tomorrow.

 

Fri, 06/21/2013 - 02:44

Alison (not verified)

Looks like a number of upgrades.  Have you given it a test drive yet?  Will you use this one for your hall rug?

Fri, 06/21/2013 - 04:47

trkeyfrm

i was literally just now tracking you down to message you a link to it...and saw your comment as recent activity on your profile.   bunch of pictures as a new project.   was out working on it and putting it to it's first use outside in the breeze today.

Fri, 06/21/2013 - 20:15

sandra.eberhar…

Great Job!!  People have always made textile equipment out of what is available.  If the Navaho had a Home Depot within easy travel distance, their looms would look much different.  My first projects reflected Home Depot stock, most of my small parts and tools came from the firewood pile.  Now that I found a guy with a wood kiln, my horizons are even larger.  Congratulations on realizing that a traditional design reflects what one person had on hand and could do with it; and can often be improved on.

Sat, 06/22/2013 - 16:57

trkeyfrm

thank you..  hardwood would be a nice touch, the pine is a bit soft.. nice and light, but soft.

Sun, 07/28/2013 - 22:34

trkeyfrm

https://www.etsy.com/listing/157343600/a-navajo-inspired-weaving-loom-that-i?ref=shop_home_feat

Sat, 05/03/2014 - 20:32

Lyn D

  Wow, the rug came out great!   What is the finished size?

 

Sat, 05/03/2014 - 20:32

Lyn D

  Wow, the rug came out great!   What is the finished size?

 

Sat, 05/03/2014 - 20:33

Lyn D

  Wow, the rug came out great!   What is the finished size?

 

Sat, 05/03/2014 - 22:27

Lyn D

  Wow, that came out so good!  What is the finished sized off the loom?