I'm contemplating using a tension box with my warping wheel. I know there are a number of different high-quality makers. What I'm curious about is people's views of each and their strong and week points.
In particular, I will be warping a very fine warp (120/2 silk) soon. I want to make sure I get the tension as even as possible while not putting too much stress on the thread. This will be the finest thread I've woven with to-date.
So please let me know your opinions!
You should not need to use a
You should not need to use a tension box *and* the warping wheel. The wheel is supposed to act as a tension box on it's own.
Agreed. However, as I am
However, as I am using such pesky thread, I am concerned. My experience is that the warping wheel is not 100% consistent. It was my thought to use an additional tensioning device while loading the wheel , and again while unloading the wheel to the beam.
Well, you can try and see how
Well, you can try and see how it works. :) But frankly I'd just as soon use the sectional warping equipment by itself rather than try to use both at once. OTOH, that fine a yarn, you may not have spools enough so............
Nothing ventured, nothing gained. :D
Jannie Taylor suggests 'For a
Jannie Taylor suggests 'For a really tight warp, use a stripped down tension box, run the warp through the tension bars and then onto the warp beam. Take most of the tension off of the Warping Wheel and wind on to the warp beam in the usual way.' in her 'Tips & Tricks with the AVL Warping Wheel'*.
*A 2008 Convergence handout.
That is a great suggestion.
That is a great suggestion. I was worried about the tension box fighting with the wheel. I'll ask Jannie if she can send me the handout and has any other thoughts.
Even worse than not having
Even worse than not having enough spools, I have none - all my sectional warping thus far has been with the unadulterated wheel.
I'll post how it goes with the project .
Thanks for your thoughts.
I have a Leclerc tension box,
I have a Leclerc tension box, but all the pictures of those Leclerc tension boxes show dowels that are staggered. Mine has 4 straight in a row & does not have one with the eyes in one of the reeds to put some up & some down to form the cross. How can I make the cross if it doesn't have that capabality?
The label says Leclerc, but it is at my co-owner of this Herald Loom & the box is at her house. She sent me a picture of the box so I could research, but I can't find one that is the same. I am going to teach her how to weave & all about the reason for the tension box. However, it has been so many years since I have done any weaving & at that time I had an ancient Newcomb loom which had the small metal plate with tiny holes that were the tension devise which an old friend helped me warp with that.
So needless to say, I need some help with this issue.
Usually at least one of the dowels in mounted in a vertical slot that will allow to adjust the position. You can use it by threading the warp over and under the dowels. It should have a short section of reed that the warp passes through to spread and position it. Many people (me for one) do not make a cross with sections. I put a piece of tape on the section just in front of the reed, and use that to thread from . I have no idea of what the eyes in front of reed is. Ledlerc products are clearly labeled, and the label is usually burned into the wood. If it doesn't have that, it's not Leclerc.