When I built my draw loom over the summer and warped it, I only put a short warp on - 5 yards.   Well, I've been playing with it and weaving little things, but the rod on the warp beam has just made it's way over the back beam.   That means that the distance left on the warp (from the back beam to the end of the last weaving) is still about 2 yards.    On a regular loom that would leave a good distance yet to weave, but this is a draw loom.  

My plan all along has been to tie on the next warp to save all the work of threading it through two sets of heddles.  

So, my first question is, do I tie on now, or can I keep weaving until the warp is up to the back set of shafts?   When ever I do it, I'll have to cut off the last weaving and re-beam because the tension will need to be equalized across the warp.

My second question is, where is the best place to tie on?   I can beam the new warp on at the back, and then tie on at the back.   I'd cut the last weaving off at the front, pull the tension to make it even again, and get some more weaving out of that last piece of warp.   Or, I could cut the last piece off now and tie on at the front.   Then I'd beam it front to back.   This way the last two yards of the first warp would be back onto the warp beam again.   I prefer back to front beaming if that makes any difference.

And third, if I plan to add pattern shafts when I add the new warp, does that make any difference for how I do it?  (I haven't decided whether I will add any yet.   I'm currently using 21, but the loom will hold 50.)

Thanks!

 

 

Comments

Joanne Hall

1.weave in a stick and cut off what you have woven, leaving a couple inches woven at the stick, or put glue on the fabric so it will hold when you later lace up this stick to weave.  Do not cut the warp yet.

2. If you took out the lease sticks, put them back in behind the pattern shafts.  This is not easy, but I actually did it once.  Now I leave them in, just in case I tie on again.

3.  Secure the lease sticks by tying them on each side to the top of the loom.  Then cut the warp at the warp beam tie-on bar (at the exact end of the loop of thread) and tie the warp into small bundles with a slip knot.

4.  Beam the new warp.  I usually use three warp ends together if I have a six shaft ground weave, or four together if I have a four shaft ground weave.  This makes it easier to add new pattern shafts, which you can do at any time.

5.  Leave the lease sticks in.  Sit behind the pattern shafts and tie the new warp to the old one, using about the same length of the thread to make each knot.

6.  Cut off your woven pieces which are on the cloth beam or leave them on.  If you cut, lace up the woven in stick and weave.  Usually the tension is just as good as when you wove the last piece. You can weave another small piece before the knots get too close to the ground shafts.

7.  If you change the sett for the new warp, you will need to cut and re-sley.  Or, you can try the new warp at the old sett by advancing the warp until the knots are close to the breast beam.  Try it to see if you can weave something at the old sett. Joanne

 

SallyE (not verified)

I did leave the lease sticks in.  I almost always do that now, because "you never know. . . "

I think I will be changing the sett because I'll probably (still thinking about it) use a finer yarn, but I figure I don't have to re-sley until the knots get closer to the reed.

Thank you for the detailed instructions!

 

debmcclintock

I tie on in the back of my loom because it is easier on my body. This isn't a drawloom set up but pictures might be helpful. http://weavolution.com/project/debmcclintock/tying-warp-pulling-thru

cottageweaver (not verified)

Joanne, thanks for the details, and Deb, thanks for the tie-on visuals. I wasn't picturing the two sets of lease sticks. I'm nearing the end of my drawloom warp, so if my next one is similar, I may tie on.

SallyE (not verified)

Thank you both for the information and pictures. They help a lot!

While I was going to sleep last night, I realized that I have to do a warp with the same number of end as the current one.   If I add shafts, the saved lashes I have for my spider weave won't work!   So, I have to weave as many copies of that pattern as I want before I can add threads.

That would have been a nasty surprize!