I have a new to me Macomber 40 which I am slowly getting acquainted with. My latest question is how to use the lamm depressor. I can see the benefits of holding the shaft down while tying up - I just can't figure out how to make it work. Mine is the dowel on a string with a slot in one end. Thanks so much.

Comments

Michael White

is a pain in the butt. You put the slot over the lamm that you want to push down and as you are holding the lamm down you work in the hook from the treadle.

Macomber sells a "real" lamm depresser that locks into place.

 

susiehoke

I appreciate that info. I'll look into it.

Vicki Allen (not verified)

If you are working with the super hooks, you just insert the hook in the proper treadle, look under the loom, determine which shaft you want the hook over, turn the hook and hook it over that shaft. There is no need to depress the lamm.

Vick Allen

SallyE (not verified)

I agree, the super hooks are easier.   I never depress the lams.  It's way easier to just lift the treddles.

Anybody want my "real" lam depressor?  It's the kind in the picture above.   I never use it!

susiehoke

Thanks for the comments. I do have the super hooks, thank goodness, so I guess I won't fret over the awkward dowel depressor.

ReedGuy

Looks like a complicated setup for a loom. I don't even understand it because I don't own this type of loom. I'm sure folks are content with this loom. But seems like some jury rigging. However, from what I'm seeing I would have to agree with Mike. :)

mneligh

The Macomber B type loom is far from jury-rigged: it is engineered.  A dowel on a string, however, is jury-rigged and is not the real lamm depressor for the loom.  What you may find confusing is that older B types have one type of treadle hook, newer ones another, and some people have replaced theirs with texsolv -- why, I can't say.

It is much easier and faster to use the hooks than it is to tie up a countermarch or counterbalance loom.  As stated, you slip it into the right treadle slot and hook it over the correct lamm and you're done.  The lamm depressor comes into play if you do all the the hooks for one shaft at once, as you might on a network-drafted progressive twill or an undulating shadow weave.  I might have 160 hooks to put in place over 22 treadles, so I work starting with all treadles tied to shaft 20, and then I work forward.

You do not have to use the lamm depressor, but in some cases it is easier to do so. 

My advice to the originator of this thread is to get a real lamm depressor or use a shuttle to keep a shaft in the up position while tying up all the associated treadles.

ReedGuy

Thanks for the explanation mneligh. Wasn't attempting to run down Macomber here. Just the method of "working around" or jury rigging a function. As I said, I agreed with Mike and he suggested getting the proper device. I don't own one of their looms, so I don't know how well they perform. However, I do enjoy my countermarch loom. :)

mneligh

On really wide warps and lots of shafts, countermarches do have a mechanical advantage just in terms of treadling ease.  However, jack looms are infintely easier to tie up.  Macombers have overhead jacks, back hinged treadles, sturdy frames, and heavy beaters, making them, to their fans, the "best in class".  They also fold small enough to fit through doors.  If I ever get my 72" 32 shaft loom, it probably will be a countermarche, but I have to add on to my house first.

ReedGuy

Try double weave and go with a 60". A 72" isn't even wide enough for a queen (blanket). I have a fly on mine and adds 36" to the width. So even if you had room for that 72", add at least 3 feet more, otherwise a lot of scoot'n on the bench back and forth. :)

mrdubyah (not verified)

I think the system works great.  Put a treddle hook in the hole on the end of the depressor lever (as shown above).  Then put the slug over the lam, press down the lever, and hook the treddle hook under the wooden edge of the loom.  The treddle hook will hold the lam down, making it easier to hook up the treadles.