I have just puchased an older Toika loom that is a 30 shaft drawloom. It has the usual 8 shaft countermach set up at the front, and an extra long frame (2.7 metres). The loom's instruction booklet gives assembly information for a normal Toika loom, but does not include any instructions for the drawloom attachments. I imagine I will figure it out by trial and error, but as this is my first encounter with an actual drawloom, I am wondering if anyone knows of any other Toika drawloom, and could perhaps help out with a photo of the set up. I am, of course, very excited about this loom's possibilities and can't wait to get it assembled. I have to clear a lot of space first!

Comments

Joanne Hall

Hi Yvonne,

You will have a lot of fun with this loom.  Start by learning more about the basic loom, weave a couple warps using just four shafts.  That will show you how you are most comfortable with warping as well as teaching you what level to put the lamms and how high you want the treadles tied up.  I have basic information on our website which will help you to learn to use the shaft holders, assembly of shafts, tie up of lamms and treadles and how to use the countermarch.

http://glimakrausa.com/learning-looms-weaving/intro-to-countermarch-and-counterbalance-looms/

There is also drawloom information on our site.

Joanne

Sara von Tresckow

As Joanne says, the first part of setting up what will become a drawloom is to adjust the basic loom so that you understand it and get a quality fabric from the loom.

If you are not familiar with drawloom weaving, a place to begin is Lillemor Johansson's "Damask & Opphamta". There is not a lot of other information in English - drawloom weaving is a European thing and those who learn to weave there see this type of loom more often - in museum or studuio setting - and have a bit of familiarity.

I also have some information on my web site and do offer individual instruction on the drawloom if interested.

http://woolgatherers.com/id184.htm

Yvonne K

The Toika drawloom is assembled and, with the help of some markings on the frame and photos of various drawlooms, it was quite obvious after all. I have fitted it out with five ground shafts, using 310/64 Texsolv heddles. The patterns shafts consist of long wire heddles threaded on steel rods, top and bottom, and mounted on wooden shafts. I have only mounted 11 of the thirty pattern shafts and have not yet tied the drawcords. My first warp will be 12" wide and I will weave a section first to get the loom balanced, before re-threading and trying the pattern shafts. I will add photos to ta new post to show how the loom looks.

Sara von Tresckow

Yvonne,

I'll be very interested in your photos. Something doesn't sound right in your description of pattern shafts. I've only seen some prospect photos of Toika built drawloom attachments, but wire heddles on a fixed wood frame they weren't.

It might even be that your loom is stock built, but the drawloom parts are home built and not done correctly.

Yvonne K

Sarah,I am unable, after many attempts, to upload my photos but I will keep trying. The drawloom attachment is certainly original. Perhaps the pattern shafts were adapted to include weighted components. The long metal heddles may be from an industrial loom. I hope to have a warp on the loom this week and begin testing it. Yvonne

Dawn McCarthy

Can you post pictures to Flickr and add the link in the Weavo comment box?  Sara has a point, the long pattern heddles of metal sound unusual, the Toika shaft draw system is similar to Myerhead (?) so pictures of that might help.  Have you done any drawloom weaving before?

Dawn

kerstinfroberg

The website of Myrehed can be found here. Their pictures aren't very clear (rather: too small, and too few), however.

Sara von Tresckow

There are several photos on my website of a Myrehed attachment in operation.

http://woolgatherers.com/id184.htm

There is a sequence of photos showing how the unit was "built".

The Unit that was sold by Toika was quite similar and the shaft sticks used the same arrangement and use of heddles/lingos.

Yvonne K

Photos are now posted on Flickr, my username is AusYK. I'm not going to attempt to paste in the URL! They say learning new things is good for the ageing brain, so I must be doing well right now - not only the mystery of setting up a drawloom for the first time, but also the barriers of blogging.

I looked at your photos, Sarah, and can see that your pattern shafts lift from the sides. My set-up is for centre lift only.

Before I worry too much about the pattern shafts, I have to get the countermarche system adjusted. I am following Lilliamor Johanssen's description of a Glimakra loom which includes counterweights on the jacks to return the shafts to a neutral position. My loom has no counterweights. I have also used the Swedish damask tie-up, with only two shafts tied to each pedal. I am accustomed to tying each shaft to each treadle for countermarche. Why is there a different system?

Dawn McCarthy

Nice pics although that type of pattern shaft set up will not allow for grouping your units and transfering them when making different designs.  For example changing from a straight patter draw to a pointed draw (maybe Sara or Joanne can elaborate or correct) I just took a quick peek.

Dawn

Sara von Tresckow

I've not bgeen to your Flicker site - I can tell that you have looked at Lillemor's book without understanding the way a drawloom works. There is considerable difference between the double harnsss and the standard countermarche loom.

I'd suggest some lessons - your concerns about where the shafts are supported, whether to use elastics or counterweights, etc. really need to be addressed at a site where you can see and touch a correctly operating drawloom.

I do offer lessons in my studio at any time - and we are expecting an Ulla Cyrus loom to be delivered in Aug. with a single unit attachment so that beginning double harness weavers can see the difference in the systems prior to setting up their looms. In addition, I have started work on as book about double harness patterning and weaving - to address the lack of basic knowledge. There is precious little in English to date.

Sara von Tresckow

PS 

That attachment could be made to work, but has a lot of awkwarness about it that would not lead to nicely woven patterns. What is put into use today has a number of improved features that would give you what you are looking for.

Check our web site mid-August, I have some draw uinits on order from Oxaback that are normally not offered here - perhaps there is something in their line that could serve you better.

Yvonne K

Thank you Dawn and Sara for your advice, the internet is wonderful. Unfortunately I rely on books for tuition because I live in Australia. There are a few drawloom weavers here, I believe, so I should try to track them down.

Yes, I don't fully understand how the shedding works, but I'm prepared to find out by trial and error. My husband has sourced some large elastic bands so I will give them a try. I do know how the pattern shafts are threaded, in units, using a point draw or a straight draw, thanks to Vav magazine articles and drafts.

So I think I should just stop worrying and go ahead with a trial warp. I will let you know how it goes - we can learn a lot by making mistakes.

Dawn McCarthy

Enjoy the journey - hollar if you need help!

Dawn

Sarah D

Hello Yvonne,

I'm assuming you purchased the Toika drawloom that Petlins had on their website for quite some time? I watched them drop the price a few times and wondered how low it would go before someone couldn't resist the temptation! What a prize.

I bought an older 150cm Toika 12S CM from a private seller in Sydney in Feb this year (travelling up from near Melb to collect it) and I set it up from the original booklet that came with it. It's a beautiful loom, was easy to set up, and I'm loving weaving with it.

While I've got not a clue about the drawloom you have, there must be Toika weavers in Sydney.....and (unless Petlins  had other details of your drawloom's past owner) I'd imagine that loom came from a Sydney area owner too. So it's worth, as you say, trying to seek out information sources in the locality.

Another suggestion - if you're sure that it's a full Toika drawloom, not someone's own mod, I actually quizzed Toika in Finland via email about a couple of tec specifics myself, and they were very helpful.

Good luck with it all !

Yvonne K

Yes Sarah,

I have bought the Toika drawloom from Petlins. I resisted for a long time because of its size and the steep learning curve. It looks to be in original condition and the shaft draw system is simple but similar to those shown on some other drawlooms. I have a very handy husband who can help with modifications as required. Now is a warp and two lots of threading before I can adjust all the tie-up and see how it weaves.

It is good to find another Aussie weaver, although we are still a long way apart. I live in the Blue Mountains, west of Sydney. I will add my profile when I get time.

Thanks for your interest, Yvonne

Yvonne K

 

for photos, see AusYK on Flickr.

The final hurdle was balancing the ground shafts. I weighted the lower shaft bars and used 2mm shock cord from a boating supplier as the elastic that returns the shafts to their position. Although the pattern shaft system is very basic, the loom works fine and I am enjoying my sample. I am using 10/2 pearl cotton @ 30epi, in a five end satin.