I have rescued a neglected 48" B4D (s/n 6102) from a young woman who didn't have time to weave any more due to a growing family.  I understand her dilemma, but I hope she doesn't regret selling it in later years.  This one is a beauty.  Eight harnesses (capable of 16), sectional and standard back beam, barely used.  I can't wait to get it warped and see how it weaves.  All the bells and whistles came with it.  Nice spool rack (to replace my cobbled-together 2x4 rack), tensioner, bench, yarn swift, lots of yarn (some of it really, really nice), a couple of lovely, exotic wood shuttles.  I'm really excited to get working on it.

The only thing I can't figure out is the extra bar on top of the beater (picture below).  The original owner didn't know what it was for, either.  The brackets it sits on fit only on the beater - not on the front or back beam, so I'm thinking it's probably used as a weight to make the beater heavier for rug weaving. Has anyone see this before?

Comments

Wed, 06/13/2012 - 22:56

gailc

I cant see anything in that photo. Is it possible that the bar you are talking about is the heel rest bar that should be in front of the treadles?
Thu, 06/14/2012 - 01:34

SallyE (not verified)

The heel rest bar is not long enough to fit on top of the beater, so it's not that.   I'm guessing it's a weight, like you said.

 

Thu, 06/14/2012 - 17:41

putumuju (not verified)

It does fit off the side of the back beam.  Perhaps it's to separate warps if you're using both of the warp beams.  (sorry the picutre is sideways - I don't know how to turn it).

 

Thu, 06/14/2012 - 19:33

mneligh

I couldn't tell from the first photo but that is for sure the bar that fits over the back beam for separating two warps when they're being fed at different rates.  I use mine frequently -- I also run the warp over it when I'm just using the lower sectional beam.  There should also be a tensioner "runway" bar on brackets on which the tensioner slides.  The warp does not go over this, although I once accidentally warped that way and it was fine.

Fri, 06/15/2012 - 16:33

putumuju (not verified)

I was wondering about that.  I have the runway bar installed.  I thought it was to keep the warp on the sectional beam spearated from the standard beam, if you were using both.  I didn't realize it was a runway for the tensioner.  It makes better sense now, as does the placement of the extra back beam.  Thanks!

Sat, 06/16/2012 - 00:14

Michael White

Do you have a picture of this bar?

ichael

Sat, 06/16/2012 - 14:59

mneligh

As you can see, I beamed a warp with this configuration yesterday, and I'm threading today.

Sun, 06/24/2012 - 13:55

BKK (not verified)

Hello,I'm Brenda and just recently joined the group. I have a double beam Macomber loom that I am refurbishing. There are no strings on the back beams. Can I use an apron instead of strings for both beams? I acquired the loom in poor shape and I have read maintenance information from Sarah (I think that is her name). However, I would prefer an apon on the back beam,but, I've not read information about an apron on a Macomber loom. Any assistance would be appreciated.Thank you

Sun, 06/24/2012 - 14:44

mneligh

How would you attach an apron to a sectional beam?  Since each section is beamed individually, the only thing that would work would be to attach a mini-apron to eack section, kind of like a string. 

On a regular beam an apron would work okay, but I'm not sure it would do much for you on the back beam.  The main advantages I see in an apron on this loom are covering the "tie-on" knots and lateral stability.  If you brush up against the breast beam, an apron would keep the warp centered in the early phase of a piece.

Sun, 06/24/2012 - 18:06

BKK (not verified)

Thank you for your assistance.

I've never seen an apron for a back beam, but, I'm having trouble putting the strings on the back beam. I tried to follow the directions from Macomber,but, the horseshoe tacks that were sent to me I think are too big and I haven't found any that are smaller. The original horseshoe tacks were very small. Perhaps if anyone knows different methods of restringing the back beam, perhaps, I could find a method that works for me. I appreciate the feedback and help

Sun, 06/24/2012 - 23:33

mneligh

You can put an apron on a regular back beam, just not a sectional beam. 

I don't see a problem with tack size, though, unless they are really thick.  If they are just wide, turn them vertically.  If the tacks are for the sectional beam and they are too wide and or so thick that you risk splitting the wood, you could knot the strings around the spikes of the sectional beam.  Since the strings make big loops from spike to spike, it would be the logical way to stablize them.  The original strings are tacked at the base of a set of spikes anyway.

Mon, 06/25/2012 - 00:36

Michael White

Brenda, first off we have four Macombers all with aprons on the plain beams, cloth and warp beams. Macomber sells a apron kit or you can make your own, as I did. If you type in apron in the search box, top right, you will find instructions for making an apron.

You should be able to find really small staples if you think the ones from Macomber are to large. On the strings, they should be long enough to go over the back beam and reach the heddles. I would measure that distance and cut a piece of wood one inch longer.I would then make all my strings double the size of the board, once up and then back down. I know on the plain beams Macomber uses one long string with loops across the whole beam. 

Michael

Mon, 06/25/2012 - 15:40

BKK (not verified)

Thank you. I will use the search box. I appreciate your help.

Fri, 06/29/2012 - 18:07

putumuju (not verified)

I replaced the strings with an apron on my old Macomber, and I was able to staple it on with a regular staple gun.  I wasn't sure it would work on the hard wood, but it did.