I'm sure I heard somewhere that one can make a supplemental beam with a 2x4.  But I have no idea where I heard it, or how it's done.

Anyone?

Comments

ReedGuy

You mean a breast beam? Or a beam above the existing warp beam?

sequel (not verified)

I heard this referred to at Virginia West's lecture at 2011 MAFA.  It's something her husband rigged up to provide her with a "2nd warp beam" for supplementary warp patterning.  She also said where to find the info, too bad I don't remember where she said to look!

ReedGuy

It'll take more than a single 2x4, but a 6 sided beam could be jointed with 60 degree edges (think of a 6 sided column) and figure a way to mount it. Will need to make provisions for mounting it and a way to secure tension.

An easier way may to cut circular ends from 3/4" plywood and cut 6 radial slots out on the edge of the circles the same cord length apart as the circle radius so they are equally spaced. Cut these 2"x4" (actually 1.5" x 3-1/2" dressed) for your 2x4's to screw into. Walla beam. You could rig it up so you have 2" wooden dowel rod on the ends to mount the beam. Have to come up with a mounting braket which could be bolted onto the loom frame.

Dawn McCarthy

I made a live weight tension warp beam for my Toika loom from plumbers metal poles/flanges and pieces of 2 x 1.

It's not so difficult to build the beam but the application needed to create a ratchet/pawl or live weight tension can be tricky.

I have a couple of photos from my blog. Leesburg Loom & Supply used to sell ratchets and pawls, LeClerc sells them or you can rig a live weight tension that allows the warp to be advanced whilst seated at the front of the loom.

http://bloominloom-dawnmccarthy.blogspot.com/2011/09/ouch.html

Dawn

Sara von Tresckow

Since supplemental warps are generally smaller than the main warp, or as in the case of Sandra's made of replacement ends, you do not need the same tensioning and strength as with the main warp beam.

The solution pictured with the tube would also work with a piece of lumber with the supplemental warp wrapped around it - in principle this is the technique of a supplemental warp, beamed on its own lease sticks - and instead of looping the chain over weights than need to moved frequently, it is wound on thie weighted extra "beam".

Just as supplemental warps can be very successfully beamed using c-clamps or hammers hanging off the back beam, this would bea bit more elegant.

SallyE (not verified)

I've added additional warp beams to several looms.   For large floor looms, I use a 4 x 4 and rip the corners off on a table saw - creating an octagon.   For the tension system I purchase a friction brake from one of the companies that sells replacement loom parts.

 

Peg.Cherre (not verified)

Thanks for reminding me where I heard about the 2x4, sequel.  And thanks for the terrific link to sandrarude, kerstintroberg!  I actually have something even better than a mailing tube I think I can use - the inside roll from newsprint, from the local newspaper.  It has some weight in and of itself, and that should minimize weight I'd need to add.  Although I don't understand all sandrarude's directions when sitting and reading it, I think if I work through it step by step it will make sense. Since i'm not looking for a permanent supplemental beam, just something I use occassionally, this looks like the perfect solution.

caloosa (not verified)

Am working with a suplemental warp now.  How do you tenison it when threading to keep ends even so you can tie on - any weight will pull threads out of heddles.  I have the supplemental threads on their own lease sticks, but then what?