I'm reading about drawlooms and I am signed up for a class for next spring.   One thing I've run into in my reading has to the fact that you can tie up a countermarch to lower shafts as well as raise them.  Some of the drawloom drafts I've seen tell you to do that - tie some of the shafts to raise and some to lower.   (I understand that on a countermarch, you usually tie each shaft to all the harness - what ever shafts aren't being lifted are being lowered.  Is that correct?) 

Anyway, I'm thinking of trying to modify one of my jack looms with a draw harness, long eye heddles, back extension, etc.   But, of course, on jack looms you can't lower the shafts.   How much of a problem will this be?  Am  I embarking on a fools errand to try to do this?   The problem is that I really don't have room for another large loom, so if I can't do this with a jack loom, I'll have to get rid of one of them.

Thanks for your advice!

Sally

Comments

Sara von Tresckow

You need to look at Lillemor Johansen's "Damask and Opphamta" and look at how the shed forms on a drawloom. It is quite different from your knowledge thus far about shed formation.

While there have been some weavers who tried to convert jack looms to drawlooms, the results were not smoothly functioning looms. It is really not recommended.

Joanne Hall

Hi Sally,

You would need to build a castle, or super structure and tie up your shafts counterbalance or countermarch.  However, the shafts would need to be as light weight as possible, only about 1 lb per shaft.  Most jack loom shafts weigh 3 to 5 or even 6 lbs.   So, they are far too heavy.  So, then you would need to make new shafts and use Texsolv heddles.  Soon you would be rebuilding the whole loom.

Joanne

SallyE (not verified)

Well, I happen to enjoy rebuilding looms and have done several in the past - I've even converted a CB to a jack loom for someone.  I'm a woodworker, so adding to the superstructure and extending the back beam is not the problem.   I was thinking of building the pattern harness with half heddle boards, which I can easily cut on my table saw.

My question was about the necessity of being able to lower the shafts - which you can't do on a jack loom.   Is it really necessary to be able to lower the background shafts to do draw loom weaving?

Joanne Hall

is necessary.  The pattern shafts sit low and work like a jack loom.  But the ground shafts need to go up and down to meet the threads held up and down by the pattern shafts.  I have tried doing the simple half heddle sticks method of damask weaving, where you put a board in the shed behind the shafts.  Even though I have used the long eyed heddles and tried it on a good jack loom, the shed was about 1/4 inches and we could not make it bigger.  This works perfectly on a counterbalance and countermarch loom.

Joanne

SallyE (not verified)

Joanne - Oh!  I think you just gave me the answer!   The jack loom that I wanted to use is a Barbara IV which does both jack and counterbalance but not countermarch.   Although I've never used it in counterbalance mode, I have all the parts to do it.  So, if I understand you, I could use it in counterbalance mode and add a draw harness to the back (plus an extension of course.)

And that would be great because I'd get to keep this wonderful loom and wouldn't need to buy another loom.   I've been having nightmares about trying to sell it to someone who didn't want it just for the 500 pounds of cherry wood!   I'm so excited!

So, now I'm off to learn about counterbalance tie-ups.

Thank you so much!

Joanne Hall

On the older drawlooms where the countermarch could not be used, drall pulleys were used for the tie-up.  If you write to me at

[email protected]

I can send you an instruction page on counterbalance tie-ups.  It is from my new warping book.

Joanne

Dawn McCarthy

Sally, the drall pulleys work well giving you more than 4 shafts, however obviously a 5 shaft satin is not possible but 6 or 8 is.  I think I have pics of the 6 shaft pulleys on my blog.  You will also need to use elastics (available from Joanne) to hold and return the shafts to neutral.

http://bloominloom-dawnmccarthy.blogspot.com

Dawn

Dawn

 

SallyE (not verified)

Thank you both for the information.   I don't think I can change out the pulleys on this loom.   The Barbara IV is designed very differently, so changing something to work the way other looms work doesn't really work.   I'm going to try to hook it up with counterbalance the way the manual describes first, and then maybe when I understand how it's supposed to work, I can figure out changes to do what I want.

As they say, if all else fails, "read the manual!"  (The actual quote is a bit more colorful than that!)

 

SallyE (not verified)

Thank you both for the information.   I don't think I can change out the pulleys on this loom.   The Barbara IV is designed very differently, so changing something to work the way other looms work doesn't really work.   I'm going to try to hook it up with counterbalance the way the manual describes first, and then maybe when I understand how it's supposed to work, I can figure out changes to do what I want.

As they say, if all else fails, "read the manual!"  (The actual quote is a bit more colorful than that!)

 

Dawn McCarthy

If your loom has four shafts for CB you will be limited in the groundweave.

Dawn

SallyE (not verified)

Actually, it has 8 shafts.   I just finished installing all of them (and setting up 3 chickens to dry so I can smoke them on Friday) and now I'm going change it from jack to CB. 

I understand that you can do unbalanced weaves with a CB, but I'm not sure how that works, so that will be my next question.   I'll probably try to set it up see what the shed is like, and then maybe weave something to try it out.   From there I should be able to tell whether I want to take this further or just sell the loom and get a CM.  : ' (