Following my visit with the Montagnard backstrap weavers, I have been dabbling in weft twining. Ju and Nach showed me their warp faced backstrap woven blankets which they had edged in weft twining off the loom. They twine wefts around the warp ends to create patterns, add beads and then leave the rest of the warp ends hanging as fringe. Although the Montagnard weavers work this off the loom, Bedouin weavers often do it while their piece is on the loom. An image of this can be seen here.

I have been practicing it with heavy yarns. I used a cotton string for warp as i thought that something a little stiffer would help while learning the technique and Sugar and Cream cotton as weft (this is around 12wpi) along with other 12wpi cotton I buy here in Bolivia. The technique is very simple but it takes a while to get the moves coordinated so that you can maintain an even tension. No tools are required and it would make a great fiber activity for the car.

So far I have only used two colors at a time as the Montagnard weavers do but hope to add more colors as I gain more experience and perhaps weave some of the gorgeous Bedouin designs I have here in books.You can see one row in progress. The wefts are twisted around each warp. When working with two colors single and double twists are used to bring the desired color to the surface to form the pattern.

Here is one of the Montagnard motifs that I twined.

There is more information including links, photos of the gorgeous Montagnard pieces and book recommendations on my blog.

Comments

Claudia Segal (not verified)

I believe this is also done at the edges of Navajo weaving.  Some weavers use two colors and begin the rug with one of the two so it blends in nicely.  Others use one color for the twined edge and begin weaving with the same color.

You are more experienced in this than I am.  I am curious is the Montagnard do the same thing as Navajo style weaving.

Claudia

bolivian warmi

The twining at the top and bottom of the Navajo weavings is the same. Basically you are twisting a pair of "wefts" around each warp. The way I was taught, it was purely functional rather than decorative. The twining enabled you to lash the warp to the loom bar and create the four selvedges. I was encouraged to always do the twining in the same color as the first rows of weft. And that is the limit of my experience with it.

The twining that the Montagnard weavers do on their edges seems to be purely decorative. Perhaps it also serves to strengthen the edge of the piece...I am not sure about that. They add beads (Job's tears) after the twined area and then leave fringe.

 

Claudia Segal (not verified)

The twining on the edges could also help keep the weft in place, yes?

Claudia

bolivian warmi

Yes, I like to imagine them twining a couple of rows for that purpose at some point a long time ago and then getting carried away as they discovered the design possibilities. Just guessing and imagining. Have you seen the big twined bands they do?

francorios (not verified)

I have some acrylic rug yarn that I bought at the thrift store with the idea of making twined rug bags. I like fat yarns more than I like working little yarns and thread.

I like the examples you did. Maybe I can use some of that as giant sized patterns. I like what I've read about the Chiklat blankets as well.

Have a good day!

Franco Rios

bolivian warmi

It's a lot of fun Franco and a nice take-anywhere project.

ruthmacgregor (not verified)

Your twining is beautiful, Laverne!  I love the delicacy of the patterns in your sample.  The patterns I'm most familiar with are from the Pacific NW, in the traditional Chilkat weavings -- which I find beautiful, but the twining yarns are fairly thick, so the designs are less detailed.  (Still gorgeous, though!)

When I've twined headers at the start of a weaving on a frame loom (at each end of the warp), I've sometimes used a crochet hook to help speed things up.  That wouldn't work for wefts being used for patterning, though.

Did you do your samples off-loom?  Or did you attach (or weight) the warps?

Curious minds want to know....

Ruth

bolivian warmi

It was done off loom, Ruth and just held in my lap with no weight or tension on the warps. If you have a chance you may like to take a look at my blog post about it.

graciela (not verified)

 I used this technique to make   portfolios ( bags). More images in

http://gracielaforadoritecnicastextiles.blogspot.com/

http://vistiendoarte.blogspot.com/

 Laverne, your works are wonderful.Thanks for sharing your fascinating experiences. We travel with you

Have a nice day!! Graciela


Bonnie Datta (not verified)

I just noticed that there is a chapter in The Techniqes of Rug Weaving on weft-twining.  That book is available on-line at handweaving.net, and it's chapter 13.

Bonnie.

 

bolivian warmi

Thanks Bonnie,

I will have to download that next time I am in the US and have a fast internet connection. It would be nice if you could just download the chapters you want. I am twining another piece now using more than two colors this time.

EDIT... Oops I just remembered that I did download this some time ago. Now if I could just find it....i think I am the kind of person who is better off with the book in hand!

bolivian warmi

I got to revisit the Montagnard weavers and had some classes with them on weft twining for three days. I also got to see one of my teachers, Ju Nie, in action spinning cotton on a typical spinning wheel as well as the way she prepares her cotton for spinning. There are lots of pohotos and video on my blog today. In the photo below you can see Ju at her spinning wheel with the piece we were using for our twining class in the background on the wooden stand. I had classes with two different teachers from two different tribes.

weave2 (not verified)

What a great opportunity to learn from another culture!  I just love her spinning wheel, it reminds me of a hamster wheel.:)  And to think, many spinners wouldn't think to spin cotton without a 'proper' wheel.

Textile Trails

For anyone interested in the details of Bhutanese weft-twining (kushutara), Wendy Garrity will be in the US and Canada this fall, presenting and giving workshops:

26 Sep:  Lecture-presentation for Potomac Weavers Guild

2-4 or 3-5 Oct: 3-day workshop hosted by Weavers Guild of Greater Baltimore

6 Oct: Lecture-presentation for  Weavers Guild of Greater Baltimore

7 Oct: Lecture-presentation for Central Pennsylvania Weavers Guild

10-11 Oct: 2-day workshop hosted by Handweavers Guild of Boulder

12 Oct: Lecture-presentation for Handweavers Guild of Boulder

13 Oct: Lecture-presentation for Handweavers Guild of Boulder

Oct date TBC: Lecture-presentation for Rocky Mountain Weavers Guild, Denver

17-19 Oct: 3-day workshop hosted by Rocky Mountain Weavers Guild, Denver

26 Oct: Lecture-presentation for MAIWA Symposium, Vancouver

27-28 Oct: 2-day workshop at MAIWA Symposium, Vancouver

29-31 Oct: 3-day workshop at MAIWA Symposium, Vancouver

The MAIWA workshops can be combined to enrol in a 5-day workshop

 For further details, please contact the respective Guilds and MAIWA, or email Wendy at [email protected]