I'm trying to weave my own canvas to paint on. So I need the fabric to be dense and stiff. I'd like to do a linen and cotton version. So far I've been using 8/2 cotton and tried samples of epi of 24, 27, and 30. All aren't dense enough. I've been beating the fabric hard which helped and finished the piece off with hot water and iron. I'm also using plain weave. Please let me know if you have any suggestions!

Comments

Tue, 10/21/2014 - 03:54

pammersw

Part of what makes painting canvas stiff is the primer. Before it is primed, it's not very stiff.

Tue, 10/21/2014 - 03:59

Sara von Tresckow

I've done a small piece - done in handspu linen both warp and weft for an artist on the East Coast. I used a countermarche loom with raised back beam (allows for firmer beating) and singles yarn. Plied yarn will not beat as firmly as singles. Jack looms will not beat as firmly as countershed. The artist was quite pleased with the results - though to paint on the fabric, one needs to stretch it on a frame and gesso it.

Tue, 10/21/2014 - 04:11

Heather26

Yeah I know that canvas is gessoed to keep the paint from soaking through canvas. But I'm looking for the tightness of ungessoed canvas. Like the canvas of tote bag or out door canvas fabric. I am working with a jack loom so that makes sense that I can't beat as hard. I also didn't know about single ply yarn being able to be packed better. I've purchased hand woven tea towels and although they aren't stiff the weave is pretty closed and denser...I'd be happy with that. Any suggestions on a good dense tea towel? Epi? Type of yarn? Thanks for the help!!!
Tue, 10/21/2014 - 11:33

Xylem

An article from "the best of Weaver's" by Marnie Thompson describes Gebrochene twills and a version used as a canvas in a 17th century Scottish painting. There are 4, 8, and 14shaft versions and notes on designing in the article. Handweaving.net has examples of Gebrochene twills.

Steve

Tue, 10/21/2014 - 15:21

Sara von Tresckow

Duck as in tote bag fabric needs very sturdy looms with heavy beaters and special conditions.

To achieve firm toweling quality, 10/2 cotton at 30 epi with a number 8 singles linen, beaten firmly on a countershed loom will do it.

Rising shed looms just won't have the same ability to produce dense fabric. My canvas was entirely of handspun singles so I don't really remember the sett and it wouldn't be relevant to someone using commercial yarns.

Wed, 10/22/2014 - 08:32

Artistry

While I completely agree with Sara about not getting the firm beat with Jack looms, I have attached ankle weights ( the kind with Velcro) on either side of the beater bar to try to make up for this shortcoming. Make sure they are " balanced" to each other on each side. While I'll never get a " good" rug this way, I have been successful to get a firmer beat. The one thing I would watch out for is if your loom has a a wobbly beater bar, putting weights on it is only going to make it worse, so don't do it. Only try it if your beater bar is nice and sturdy because you will be putting stress on it. If you balance the weights the reed will hit the fell straight across all at the same time. I've done this on a 4 S LeClerc and a 8S Baby Wolf with no damaged to the looms, 2 lb. weights. If you don't have access to a counter shed loom as Sara suggested, this would give you a firmer fabric but maybe not firm enough. As I said before make sure your beater bar can take it. Gesso and fabric. I've gessoed a fair amount of fabric for my paintings. I don't always use a really stiff fabric. You might want to try a few fabric samples and gesso them and see how tight you really need this fabric to be for YOUR liking.
Wed, 10/22/2014 - 17:11

Sara von Tresckow

Plain Weave LInen Canvas - all handspunHere is a photo of the canvas I once did - I can't remember the sett, but the photo was taken after wet finishing and mangling which improved its density. The artist was pleased - he wanted the unevenness of old masters' handspun and handwoven canvas for his portraits.

Wed, 10/22/2014 - 22:06

kerstinfroberg

Realizing it is (almost) too much to ask: pls, what are the measurements of the coins? (question from a European, who, perhaps, has an American coin somewhere - or, perhaps not)

Thu, 10/23/2014 - 00:59

sarahnopp (not verified)

The larger coin, the quarter dollar, is almost the same as 1 Euro coin. According to Google, the quarter is 1 mm larger :)

The smaller (US 10 cents) is slightly smaller than the 2 cent Euro.

(I am assuming you have some Euro stashed somewhere.)

Thu, 10/23/2014 - 02:06

Sara von Tresckow

I just found the envelope containg the small piece I kept - it says 9 ends and 9 picks per cm or roughly 23 ends per inch and picks per inch.

Thu, 01/01/2015 - 06:37

TDLessard

Linen is the most expensive and superior choice we artist think while selecting a canvas. Cotton canvass are loosely woven but the identations can be filled in the weave with primer or gesso to create a smoothing surface. Especially if you apply a multiple layers while sanding down each time. But as an artist, if still I find weave on the canvas, I use them as a texture for my custom paintings and believe me it really looks wonderful.