So, I just got done threading 1,104 warp ends for my 12" wide sample warp, which took me a little over three hours of work (total; I split it up through the day so I wouldn't get too tired). 

Along the way I discovered one little trick that was ergonomically more efficient: instead of threading with the hook facing down (which is how I sley the reed), thread with the hook facing up.  That makes it easier to grab the loop with your first finger as the hook comes out from the heddle, and secure the loop as the hook is going into the next heddle eye.

Before, i was threading with the hook facing down, and had to do an awkward little wrist flip to secure the loop of thread before going on to the next heddle.  This is much quicker.

Anyone else have tips to share on efficient threading?

Comments

Mon, 08/31/2009 - 09:15

kerstinfroberg

What I do is

1) position a "logical" number of heddles (for a straight draw a whole "straight" or a portion of it; for a pattern threading a group that makes sense compared with the total number of heddles in that block), then

2) select the same number of threads, either "picking a cross" between my fingers, or, if I'm threading 4 ends at a time, I put the ends between fingers, and

3) thread them one at a time (hook upwards) leaving the loops on the hook (still keeping hold on the ends behing the heddles), then

4) pull all ends through at the same time.

I sley the reed with almost the same technique, except I often postion the reed horizontally, coming out in front of the beater. -This means I have to lift the reed out, bring it back over the batten and re-insert it from the back, but I find it so much easier to see the reed that way.

On my website there are pics of the sleying method, here.

Kerstin in Sweden

Mon, 09/21/2009 - 12:36

Su Butler

I use the "treadling the threading" method for such fine warps.  I honestly don't know who first thought of it, but I believe I learned it from Ingrid Boesel.  The threading is entered into the liftplan, one thread per row.  The treadle is depressed, raising the proper shaft and a heddle is selected and threaded.  I usually do about 12 threads, then tie them off so they won't accidently slip back through the heddles with the constant up and down motion of the shafts.  This is a very accurate and efficient way to thread a lengthy pattern, and works best if you have a computerized dobby, but could be done on a mechanical dobby or regular treadle loom too.  I have found that, particularly for very fine thread warps, this method is very efficient.

Su :-)

Mon, 09/21/2009 - 14:36

Sara von Tresckow

 If you are willing to create a new file for the loom, you can place 4 or any other convenient number of threads on a line in your liftplan - according to th threading sequence, and treadle that. Then you pick up the next 4 threads as Kerstin does, and after they are threaded, go to the next line of the liftplan.

Mon, 09/21/2009 - 17:16

weaversouth (not verified)

Sara. that is brilliant and I am going to give it a go next threading!!!

Fri, 10/02/2009 - 22:55

weaverbird53 (not verified)

That's *exactly* how I thread, too, Kerstin, except that I work front to back: sley first, then thread.

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