I'm a new Harrisville owner, having bought the 36" 4S, 4T that was listed in the sale or trade page.
I've been a table loom weaver so far, so I have a couple questions about the treadle set up and am too impatient to wait for the manual to arrive :)
I had to remove the front and back sections to get the thing up the ladder to my weaving loft. When I put it back together I hadn't noticed whether the treadles should rest above or below the cross piece near the bottom of the castle.
I assume the small flap of wood with the rawhide tie should attach to the back beam ratchet?
I haven't unwrapped the harnesses yet, I might try that this evening and see if I can figure out how they attach. The rawhide looks in good shape, but there are no chains, just what looks like some linen thread in some places.
On some of the Harrisville models, the treadles sit just under a wooden cross bar. And it is the bar that holds the shafts up and keeps them from falling. These things will become apparent to you as you put a warp on and start weaviang. So, plan a simple warp and put it on the loom. As you tie up and start weaving, everything will be easier to understand.
Also, as you put it together, you can post photos to this thread for a quick making-sure question.
I will definitely post pictures if I run into a question.
On the 4 treadle looms the treadles are held down by the center cross piece. They are held up by the tension created by the tie up to the shafts. The treadles often escape when folding and unfolding the loom. Pesky little devils!
My sister sent me some photos of an HD set up at her class. From those I realized the linen line that had me so perplexed was just there to keep all the cords together. Once I removed them the frames hung up easily and treadle smoothly.
so now, a few questions
1. do the harnesses really just swing around freely in the castle? My ashford keeps them tightly held together with battens on either side of the castle, so it's different to what I'm used to.
2. How do I adjust the level and height of the harnesses? It seems I can do it most easily at the knot on the treadle.
3. There's a short wooden treadle attached to the back on the ratchet side with a length of rawhide. What is it for?
4. Warping....front to back or back to front? I prefer back to front on my ashford, but the heddles seem a bit of a reach from the front, unless do you fold the front up for threading?
I have 600 heddles, so I'm planning an overshot runner with 16/2 cotton warp. Can't wait to start.
thanks in advance,
It would help us a lot if you could post photos. My HD loom is different from yours, so the descriptions, while helpful, just don't tell me enough to give you good responses.
My rule of thumb when launching a project on a new-to-me-loom is to keep to a short warp and a dark warp. That way, if there is rust or oil residue on the loom someplace, it won't be as likely to show, and the project may still be useful.
Not sure about the HD model you have specifically, but you should be able to warp your preferred method. Does the front beam easily come off or drop down to the floor so you can get closer to the heddles/shafts? Or, does it fold up toward the castle in some way to allow closer access? Does the reed/beater easily lift out to allow easier access? All of this is just part of getting to know your new loom!
This is also why it is hard for people to advise (remotely, via the web) on "the best loom" for anyone. You sort of have to launch yourself in, and see what you think. When you buy your second floor loom, ;-) you will definitely be looking for certain features, but that can be different for each weaver.
Don't forget to post your overshot runner photos under projects when you get underway!
1-Yes, the harnesses just swing freely.
2-The level of the harnesses is most easily adjusted by the knot at the bottom of the treadle (I don't think there's another way to do it).
3-That short wooden treadle is your brake release.
4-You can warp either way. They come apart easily for access to your heddles from either side. I've never understood why the Harrisville ads have a picture of someone slung over the back beam to thread the loom when you can just lift up the metal brackets, put the whole back of the loom down and get inside of it (I sit on a low chair for this).
A few more suggestions...if your loom still has the leather cords on top, it's worth switching them to the plastic coated metal (I think they're $10 each). If you get weaving with any kind of rhythm, the cords will jump wheels, either on top or on the bottom. If your weaving starts feeling hard (when you press down on the treadle, it's just a bit too much work to lift the harnesses) then check to make sure the path of these cords is still correct. I find that the cords will often come off at the s hooks on top. You can either close up the s hooks, or, what I do is use twistie ties to secure them to the cords.