I'm trying again to upload the pdf attachment. Be interesting to see where it goes this time. Ask me by email if you want a copy.

Bev

 

Comments

Thu, 07/16/2009 - 07:48

Susan Harvey (not verified)

Woolhouse Tools has a tie up assist for rear mounted treadles... and I have one on my Gertrude loom. They call it a 20+

The original design goes back to Peter Collingwood.....

There is a link on the side bar on my blog to reach the post where I discuss it and there are images.

 

Susan

http://weeverwoman.blogspot.com

Thu, 07/16/2009 - 16:58

Little Meadows (not verified)

Hi Susan,   Just read thru your entry about your commercial tie up system and have 3 questions:

1.  How do the eye screws/bolts attach to the treadles?  I have a Glimakra and the treadles have holes drilled thru right alongthe centerline, so am wondering how I would set  up 2 rows of eyes without loosing integrity of the wood. New treadles?

2. All that tex solv looks expensive ... what do you think would be the effect of using say drapery cord until just before the board and then tying on  to the tex solv  in order to have the benefit of the slots?  Maybe eliminate the tex solv all together and just use stopper knots?

3. You mention changing the tie up in with a warp on is difficult but I do that all the time so as a newish, self taught person wondering what I'm missing?  With the Glimakra I just put the pins into the jack up at the top, have I been risking something?  You can imagine I'm wondering now what will befall me the next time....

 

A general comment to the thread is that Bev very kindly emailed me a PDF of her  system so I really appreciate everyone sharing so we can compare.  Thanks Bev and Susan!

Liese

Fri, 07/17/2009 - 04:09

conib (not verified)

 

*Thank you so much*  for posting your photos of the 20+!

Your photos gave me "thoughts" about how to implement a rear tie-up on my Ideal and Standard ... e.g. I'm thinking about little pulleys ...

(Of course my "thoughts" w.r.t. parts cost might end up being about the same money as purchasing an actual working model from Woolhouse.)
;-)

Is there any chance I could see a photo or drawing of how your Gertrude's parallel countermarche works?  It clearly works differently than the Spring ...

-- Constance

Fri, 07/17/2009 - 04:36

Susan Harvey (not verified)

Hi Liese,

We took the centre rings off the treadles and then used a wood filler to fill and then sanded the holes. Then my husband carefull drilled two rows of holes and then we screwed in a double row of eye rings

There have been home made models made using what ever NON stretch cord they could find and then texsolv for the back peg board. You have to have a system that  will allow joining of texsolv to the cheaper cord which is differerent in most cases. I have not seen these 'joins' in person and so can't speak to the methods used.   Most build the box and peg board and side supports and then buy the cord and and clips. You can buy the eye rings at most hardware stores.

If you have been changing tie ups mid warp, then disregard my comment!!  Carry on and be happy....

 

:) Susan

PS The cords are subject to a fair amount of wear and abrasion as they go backwards and forwards in the rings. I'm keeping addtional texsolv on hand for the inevitable repairs. Can't be helped! Moving parts etc

 

Fri, 07/17/2009 - 04:41

Susan Harvey (not verified)

Hi Constance,

Yes, the two looms are different systems.Both are amazing!

There may be a description at Woolhousetools.com about the system as I'm not sure how to load a hand drawing.

Maybe try googling Parallel countermarche and see what comes up!  Failing that I can send you a photocopy if you send me your address.  Just let me know...

 

Susan

Fri, 07/17/2009 - 15:52

Little Meadows (not verified)

Thanks for all those answers and giving me the blessings to continue changing tie-ups midstream - hopefully that has put any gremlins to rest again <G>.   As to the abrasion issues - on a sail boat we would shift the lines (ropes to the landlubber) a bit to keep the chafe from wearing on one spot, do you think that inching the cords forward or back  might be possible? It would be best if those cords could be done in a continuous loop but if that's not practical than it looks like extra at the end would allow that much more time before the entire cord had to be replaced.  Is there abrasion at the "peg board" too?

Liese

Fri, 07/17/2009 - 16:29

Susan Harvey (not verified)

Hi again!

I used to crew on a racing sail boat in the 1980's so understand the lines / rope and much more!  (Dad was in the Royal Navy)

No, the lines can't be moved as one part of the setting up process is to elevate the treadles to their optimum spot and then weight them to prevent movement upwards. You tug on the cords until all slack is out and then place the peg into the  'sweet spot"....then you mark that spot with a small tie of non slippery yarn. You do that for all tie up positions.

Using a continuous loop would fix this but be twice the cordage, and twice the cost. How would you get the 'end' through the hole in the peg board? How do you keep the sweet spot marked?  I have 384 cords on my loom which reflects the 12 shafts and 16 treadle tie up potentials.  So I don't think this would work, but good thinking!

Then once you are ready to do tie ups... all you do is pull the cord till the marker thread appears and slip in the peg.

That's it... you're done!

Now as for abrasion: My Gerude is 10 years old and I still have the original cordage on her. She gets lots  of regular use, but no rugs. There is some minor abrasion were the outer lamm cords run through small eyes on the outer sides of the loom. But they are still sound.

Texsolv is tough stuff!   But any tool, and a loom is a tool, and has moving parts, is subject to wear and tear and repairs and maintainence will be required. If you have ever been to any round robin workshops you will know. Someone inevitably brings a loom that  needs fixing up or is hard to work on as its worn out.

Cheerio, Susan

 

:) Susan

Fri, 07/17/2009 - 22:20

Little Meadows (not verified)

Ahoy!  Thanks for such an enlightning answer ... I'm beginning to understand this system much better for it.  Well if the coardage is still working after 10 years I'd guess the chafe/abrasion issues aren't really all that significant.  We had to change halyards every 3 years - but on a gaffer that's pretty typical - that upper yard is tough on things :)  Gads how I miss those days!  But back to weaving ....that set up you describe is quite an interesting process!  I've have to go do some more thinking upon it while I milk the girls ... take care,  Liese

Mon, 08/17/2009 - 20:41

Dawn McCarthy

 Hi, I'm interested in the pdf or pics of any rear tie up.  I change tie ups frequently and my Varpa is not generous underneath!  I would be very grateful for any info. 

 

Thanks,  Dawn