I bought 5 cones of 8/2 unmercerized cotton to use in a placemat/napkin/towel project for a pattern I got at Convergence. Tonight I finally sat down to get ready for the project and realized that the pattern calls for 10/2 mercerized cotton.  I vaguely recall someone talking to me about the change I was making, and I think I can re-do the directions to make it work with the 8/2 unmercerized cotton.  However...and here's the beginner in me...The pattern says "Color A, Color B 25 repeats for 50 ends".  Do I alternate A and B so I have 25 pairs of AB, or do I do 25 of A and then 25 of B?  I don't have a picture of the project any more to try to figure it out. Second question: if I want my placemats and napkins to be sort of the same size as the ones made with mercerized cotton (20 3/4" in the reed), shouldn't I plan for a greater percentage of shrinkage and make mine wider?  So, instead of 20 3/4" in the reed, how wide do you think I should make it?  Thanks!

Comments

Mon, 02/14/2011 - 01:48

Claudia Segal (not verified)

The difference in using 8/2 vs 10/2 will be mostly in the sett.  If the pattern is a plain weave then with 8/2 your epi (ends per inch) your sett will be somewhere between 15 and 22 and in twill 22-30 depending on the project.  If you were using 10/2 cotton, as the pattern says, you would have a sett of  18-25 for plain weave and 25-36 for twill.

Shrinkage and take-up should be about the same.  You need to sample, sample, sample.  

Based on what you have written, it sounds as though you are threading 25 pairs of A and B.  So if A is white and B is black you will have one white and one black 25 times for a total of 50 ends.  Keep in mind, however, that with a wider diameter yarn, you will either need fewer ends or you will have a wider project.  

I hope this helps.  If you can provide more information, we can offer more assistance.  Number one is always to sample, especially when you are making changes.  You are striving for the same pattern in a different yarn, I would start with the same dimensions and see what you get in shrinkage with your sample.

Claudia

Mon, 02/14/2011 - 13:13

illoominated (not verified)

Thanks for answering my questions. I can do this! However, there must be a trick to warping when you alternate the color every other thread.  I've done blocks of color, 20 black and then 20 white on the warping board so that I have one large chain when I pull it off. Any resources/tricks for how to warp the AB pattern? Do I sley 20 black, skipping a slot, and then sleying 20 white in the slots I skipped?  I'm not so great at warping yet, it's hard for me to imagine what will happen when I start winding the warp to the back of the beam when I have so many little chains at the front.

Mon, 02/14/2011 - 13:46

Claudia Segal (not verified)

If you are winding a warp of alternating color such as the one you are working on now, you tie the two colors together at the beginning.  Then, while keeping them separated with your index finger to prevent tangling, you wind your warp.  This gives you alternating threads, A and B.  Sorry I don't have a photo, it would be easier if I could show you.  

Does that make sense?

Claudia

Mon, 02/14/2011 - 15:46

illoominated (not verified)

I think I understand that you warp a thread of each color at the same time.  Won't they get twisted while I'm putting it on the board?  Do I just "fix" that when I'm putting it through the reed? Let's say I'm taking it off the cross and have two blacks in a row.  Do I sley the top black thread and then grab a white and then go back to the black thread so that they'll alternate?  Thanks for your patience.

Mon, 02/14/2011 - 20:14

Claudia Segal (not verified)

It's hard to describe but I'll try again.  As you are winding the warp, you hold the two colors together as if they are one thread.  Keep your index finger between the two threads to prevent the twisting and to prevent a black from landing next to another black.  When you arrive at the cross, treat the two threads as one and wind them together in the cross.  In the end, you will have a 2x2 cross which will make it easier to thread.

Claudia

Mon, 02/14/2011 - 22:41

illoominated (not verified)

Thanks, again.  I'm sure once I see it going on the board it will be obvious. 

Sun, 02/27/2011 - 17:11

sewwhatsports (not verified)

you would wind the warp for a shadow weave?

Thu, 03/03/2011 - 17:21

naturalfibres (not verified)

yes, you would wind the two colours together.