Does anyone in this group spin their own yarn? The people on Handspun/Handwoven mostly weave on conventional European looms, and most instruction books tell you what kind of warp to buy.

What breeds of fleece do you like best for warp as opposed to weft? Do you use a Navajo spindle? Have you got pictures?

Thanks!

--jayne

Comments

Sara von Tresckow

I haven't spun wool rug warp for many years - we once had our own sheep and the coarse britch wool from the hindquarters spun up into a fairly indestructible wool.  I did do one Navajo style rug with it (and handspun weft singles) that is still nice - I simply spun it with a firm twist and firm ply on a normal spinning wheel. ?Also made several weft faced wool rugs with it and they also held up well, though they are all sold or given out to my kids.

Our sheep were East Frisian milk sheep - a N. European breed with a sturdy wool - Romney, Border Leicester, Coopworth, Texel  would probably deliver a fleece that is suitable. I have spoken with a leading Romney breeder here and you need to ask for the britch wool, but that hindquarter wool from longer wool sheep works well as warp yarn.

sgt_majorette (not verified)

Plied warp and singles weft?

I've been separating out the britch from a massive sh~tload of CVM. If I hadn't just bought so much of that, I'd just go ahead and buy some Churro! I also have some Lincoln.

I'm not much of a wheelspinner -- my Norwegian Princess wheel is off being fitted for a Woolee Winder, and my plying wheel, a Louet, is kind of like a tank: I can't really drive it!

I guess I can do the warp on a regular drop spindle (except I'm at that stage where I've mastered cobweb and now have trouble spinning thicker!)

 

MaryMartha

Yes, weft singles are essential for weft-faced techniques.  I believe traditional Navajo warp is also made from singles respun several times, but many Anglo weavers use plied warp as a substitute.

 

So far I have only used my two Navajo spindles (sometimes called hip spindles) to overspin commercially spun wool for edging cords.  I have not been brave enough to try spinning warp.  My Schacht spindle is heavy and utilitarian..  My Al Snipes spindle is much  lighter, faster and seems more finely balanced.  Or maybe because it is so pretty, I convince myself it works better.

 

If you are interested in instruction on using a Navajo spindle, in addition to the Angie Walker Maloney video, Navajo weaving : sharing the technique and tradition,  and the Mary Pendleton book, Navajo and Hopi weaving techniques (New York : McMillian 1974),  there is a chapter in Connie Delaney's Spindle spinning from novice to expert (Kokovoko Press 1998) at 53-68.  She also includes a brief description of the so-called called "Navajo plying", a technique for making three-ply  that I've never seen anywhere else except YouTube.

 

If you are interested in geniune Navajo Churro fleece for spinning, check out the Black Mesa Weavers cooperative at

http://www.migrations.com/blackmesa/woolforsale.html

From time to time, Black Mesa also sells handspun Churro singles. The handspun wool is indescribably lovely, epecially the natural black and the red mesa.  But the handspun presents difficulties for a beginning weaver.  I find I have quite a stash now waiting for my skills to catch up.

By the way, the Black Mesa cooperative includes several of the weavers interviewed in the Weaving Worlds documentary. 

 

 

 

sgt_majorette (not verified)

I have the Stash of the Living Dead in my bedroom. If I buy one more lock of sheep hair, I will have to sleep in the living room with the dollies, and they hate when I do that! I live in a little one-bedroom in NYC; I took up weaving because they say it burns up yarn faster than knitting.

I can't seem to get the knack of the Navajo spindle, although I Navajo-ply like a mad thing! However, I'm at the froghair plateau where I spin lovely fine threads, but can't make a nice fat soft, even singles for money.

I'm thinking the Lincoln I have in my stash somwhere will do for the warp, spindled worsted and plied.

Think I'll go visit the Black Mesa Weavers anyway, see what they're up to. Thanx for the link!

--jayne, the sergeant majorette

devorah (not verified)

I have a Churro Fleece and am wondering if I ought to seperate the long courser outer coat from the softer inner one or spin them together for use in a rug. Any suggestions?

sgt_majorette (not verified)

If there's a big difference in the textures, I'd separate them! Maybe if the amounts work, you could use the coarse part for warp and the softer for weft.

francorios (not verified)

Navajo plying is also known as chain plying, since it's like making a chainstitch loop then spinning it.

The best thing about it is you don't have unmatched lengths at the end.

The worst thing is that it is 3 ply, can't do 2 ply or 4 ply.

Have a good day!

Franco Rios

Autumm (not verified)

Yes, yes, yes!!  I love to use handspun.  By handspinning and dyeing I can totally control what my piece is going to do, and of course the feeling of accomplishment is that much greater.

Here's the thing however, my pieces aren't meant to be used on the floor so I do use softer wool than I would for a rug that was to be used.  I like to throw in a little mohair or silk for strength.

I spin singles and two ply, I like the two ply better only for the fluffier wools otherwise I stick with one ply. 

What I don't do is use the Navajo spindle, I spin all my yarn on a wheel or traditional spindle.

I don't however spin my own warp, I love the wool warp that Halycon uses too much to worry about my own not holding up.

sgt_majorette (not verified)

Have you ever tried spinning your own warp? like from Churro or some other longwool? Do you card or comb your fleece? How big are your pieces?

From what I've been reading, people use plied yarn for warp and fluffy singles for weft. I'm thinking I could use some Lincoln spun worsted, fine and plied, lots of twist, for warp, spindlespun; and then soft wheelspun for weft. I've been experimenting with a rigid heddle loom jury-rigged Navajo style, and my warps seem to be holding up. But then I'm just working tiny!

Autumm (not verified)

I have tried to spin some warp, I used Wensleydale, and it worked but I was not nearly as happy with it as I am with the commercial warp.  I actually bought that fiber last year in roving form from a fiber market.  For my weft spinning I use drum carded batts.

With the Halycon wool warp I use the two ply for my small looms, three ply for medium sized frame style looms and the four ply for my Ashford Tapestry loom.  There is lots of twist in the warp, but it's not overstwisted.  I'm sure you can be very happy with your own handspun warp, I guess I've never been a really tight spinner and plyer so that's probably why I didn't like mine as well.

I will do some spinning later this week and try and do some more warp for you, I do still have some of that fiber left, it's really amazing stuff.

Aunt Janet (not verified)

When I first learned how to spin, and didn't know better, I spun warp and weft for Navaho style rug weaving.  They worked just fine.  My first lesson in spinning was on the Navaho spindle.  i'm so glad I learned that way, since it can be nice and slow.  You really get the idea of drafting at that speed.  I've never spun in the Navaho style, though.  I don't think it is necessary, since we can be working with roving that is easy to draft.  I did start out processing everything by hand. 

What about the comment that, Mary "weft singles are essential for weft face technique".  I'd like to know why.  Does it work better?  I was also told that singles are better in shaft switch rug technique.  Just curious to know why singles are considered better. 

MaryMartha

The theoretical explanation I have heard for using singles for weft-faced tapestry is that a plied yarn, even loosely spun, will not curve around the warp and pack down the same way.  So, if you are trying to achieve a weft-faced surface entirely hiding  the warps, using a plied yarn for weft will be working against you.  Empirically,  the Dine textiles I have seen or known about are without exception made with singles for weft.  

For weft-faced or weft-dominant textiles done on a hand-loom, where the ratio of warp to weft is different, this may not apply.   I think Judith MacKenzie McCuin makes some reference to this in her Weavecast interview - recommending z-plied doubles rather than singles even for weft-faced.

For other projects, I am still trying to find karakul wool singles.  I have found a few sources fo karakul, but always either 2 ply for knitting or overspun for warp.  So the comment was at least partly an expression of frustration.  I may have to buy some pencil roving and finally learn to spin.

MaryMartha

 

Aunt Janet (not verified)

Thanks, Mary Matha, for your explanation on singles.  I'm an experienced spinner, with a lot of hours at the wheel.  I'm pretty fast, consistent, and controlled.  So, if you need somebody to spin karakul singles, I would be willing to do the job for you.  That is a wool breed I haven't tried, yet, so that would be a good experience.  Let me know if you need a spinner.

Aunt janet

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