I am certain I recently saw a method for weighting the warp for taquete/samitum for those who do not have a second back beam. Any suggestios where I may have seen this or information on this methid would be most appreciated! 



make a supplemental warp beam somewhere, but I cannot seem to lay my hands on the information.  What I remember is to take 2 small blocks of wood along with a tie-on rod/stick and rubber band them to the top of your existing back beam.  The blocks raise the "supplemental" beam up off the warp beam and then you can weigh the supplemental ends in balanced increments with weights across the width of the warp.  The couple of times that I have done this, I found it easiest to beam the main warp and thread the heddles, leaving open heddles for the supplemental ends, then going back and threading the supplemental ends.  Once everything is threaded, I sleyed it all, tied on, then set tension on everything.  Clear as mud?

tien (not verified)

I have not done this, but the way I've seen suggested is to run a dowel under the threads that will be looser, just behind the back beam. Then weight the dowel, which will tension the loose threads.

Erica J

Thank you both. Tien, I think the method you mention is the one I was thinking of, I may have read it on your blog!

mrdubyah (not verified)

It's not that hard to make a second back beam.  See the 4th picture from the top here for an easy example.  Failing that, try using water bottles or jugs tied to the supplemental warp threads as shown here.

sally orgren

Scroll down within the comments section of this project to see a photo of the dowel with weights to make a second beam, to tension part of the warp differently.

Be sure to use enough weight, evenly spread across the dowel.


sequel (not verified)

Keeping the weights perfectly balanced was a problem for me.  If something slipped or jerked, the dowel would shift one way or the other and the weights would slide off and everything would go haywire.  Just this evening I was wondering how to do this without anything dangling off the dowel (and sliding to the floor).  Inspiration:  bungees or something like that which could be fastened to the base of the loom and the dowel.  And some sort of linkage that would adjust the tension.  Haven't tried it yet - I just got home!


On some looms it's much more convenient. A dowel or warp stick is run through the slack supplemental warps and anchored with texsolv evenly along the width so there is no bow. When you advance the warp, just snug up the cords each time. They are anchored to the back treadle beam. But not all looms have this construction, so it's not an easy prescription. If the warp is real long I would not do it by weight or cord, soon your on the floor, then what?

Erica J

Thanks ReedGuy. On my floor loom, I could use that method, which sounds like it would be a good solution until I get to doing long warps, then it's probably going to need Oliver to make me a second warp beam.

Bonnie Inouye (not verified)

I use a metal bar instead of a dowel. The bar itself has enough weight for a short (under 10 yards) warp, and it does not bow if I hang small weights from each end. I tie it to the back of the loom with shoe laces and move it back further when needed. I wind a rubber band around each end of the bar as a stopper for the shoe lace.

Each of my projects is generally not longer than 3 yards. If I find that more weight is needed, I can make adjustments in between projects by pulling the slack layer of warp forward and inserting something thick (a rag strip or a dowel).

Bonnie Inouye

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