I'm wondering if anyone can give me tips on weaving a sturdy fullcloth similiar to Filson's that would be suitable for jackets, shirts, etc. What size yarn should I use? Single ply or double? And how do you full multiple yards of cloth evenly?

Comments

Wed, 01/30/2013 - 17:22

Sara von Tresckow

You'll need to sample here - getting your cloth as hard as Filson's will be difficult as they have industrial strength machinery.

That said, I once wove 10 or so yards of shetland wool at 10 epi into yardage and fulled it (in 4 panels, one at a time) in my Asko washer that has very precise cycles. I still wear the cape that so closely resembles Loden that I get displaced Bavarians running after me to ask where I bought the cape.

Try with some 2-ply not worsted weaving wool no heavier than an 8/2 Shetland loosely enough that you see light through it on the loom. Then use your washer to get maximum fulling. If using an agitator machine, baste your cloth into a donut to prevent tangling. If using a horizontal drum front loader, just put the cloth in the machine - and use a bit of detergent for maximum fulling. In either case, hard press when damp to prevent rippling in parts of the cloth.

This stopping every few seconds is silly if you want heavy fulling - main thing is that your machine is consistent so that several shorter lengths (not more than 3 yards or so) will be consistent after processing. If you have trouble getting your cloth as firm as you'd like - repeat the fulling cycle on your sample - that's the nice thing about felting wool - you can always do it again if it is too limp.

When you have a nice sample ( I did some 12-14" fabric before the big project), then you're ready to translate this to your big loom.

Wed, 01/30/2013 - 21:24

kerstinfroberg

but remember: it's not only the washing machine, it is also how much load you put in it. What comes out like "x" if you have the machine loaded with (say) one metre cloth, half-a-metre wide willm not come out the same when the machine if loaded with (say) 5 metre cloth, 1 metre wide.

(How do I know? ... been there, done that :-)

Wed, 01/30/2013 - 21:52

ReedGuy

I too will be experimenting with felting wool. I tried singles in plain weave on one try. Were left over parts of skeins. The wool fulled out very well, but the cloth was not stiff like felt. Now that may improve (stiffness) if washed another tie or two, don't know. Anyway, what resulted would make a light blanket, but not so much a coat. But that being said, Hudson's Bay point blankets were readily made into winter coats back in the day. They would have been two ply wool when woven. They are a heavy blanket, and yes back in the beginning done on fly shuttle equiped floor looms of the late 18th C.

Fri, 02/01/2013 - 00:42

the busy weaver (not verified)

So maybe it's not possible to full say, 20 yards, of cloth at one time unless you're a factory? Sounds like it's smarter to do smaller pieces. Have ya'll ever heard of the Swedish method (think it's Swedish) of fulling their cloth using a water wheel? 

Fri, 02/01/2013 - 07:15

kerstinfroberg

Some years ago some friends and I did that, in Norway. Pictures on my website, here. A more wordy article (more statistics, less pictures) can be found here.

There can be differences in the result between using  a "stamp" and a washing machine. I think part of the differences lie in the yarn used - but, the red woolen yarn (in the first page above) came out completely different from the washing machine: a lot more nap, less body. Still nice, but a lot different.

Sat, 02/02/2013 - 02:32

Sara von Tresckow

The stampfuehle driven by a water wheel was used all over Europe since the MIddle Ages. I have a map of England in 1200 AD and there are over 100. Since it is a different process, I'll agree with Kerstin that the results will differ from using a wash mafchine. Also, which machine you use will affect the results. My Asko will go up to the boiling point and I tried samples at varying temps and liked one at less than maximum the best after sampling.

This is the old "industrial method" - and yes, it is quite difficult to work more than a smallish piece by hand - think of it - the entire 20 yard piece needs to have the surface worked evenly.

Napping, like fulling is also difficult to do at home on anything but smaller pieces.

Sat, 02/02/2013 - 10:12

ReedGuy

Thanks everyone in participating with your experiences. Great information. Some is probably beyond what some of us have access to. I know in my area, your on your own. Much of the textile industry is either dried up or was propped up with government money to later fail when the funds ran out.

Wed, 02/06/2013 - 19:24

the busy weaver (not verified)

I wonder if just putting cool water in the tub and stopping it would work similiar to the water wheel method?

Wed, 02/06/2013 - 19:24

the busy weaver (not verified)

"stomping" it, that is 

Wed, 02/06/2013 - 20:12

Sara von Tresckow

NO - your feet do not have the power of a wooden hammer weighing upwards of 50 pounds and pounding regularly.

Back in the day, home weavers did not have these tools either - fabric was taken to the proper finisher for fulling, calendaring, dyeing, etc.

Wed, 02/06/2013 - 20:41

kerstinfroberg

just to be contrary, I would say yes AND no... put on a pair of wellies, and be prepared to stomp for 6-8 hours... or more.

(In a classic Swe book on fulling, it says that one could choose 1/1 stamp, 1/2 stamp or 1/4 stamp. The 1/1 stamp took 6-8 hrs in a hammer mill. That would make for a "finished" fulling - probably what I achieved after the 10 cycles of washing machine with cold water. The book I'm referring to is Kjellberg: Ull och ylle, published in Lund 1943, no ISBN.)

Thu, 02/14/2013 - 16:20

the busy weaver (not verified)

Kirsten - any idea where/if I could find this book? I am very interested in Swedish weaving. I love their no nonsense, practical approach and find it more appealing than all the "artsy" stuff you commonly see in the states. Thanks for everyone's advice and input! I can't wait to get something on my loom.

Thu, 02/14/2013 - 16:22

the busy weaver (not verified)

Kirsten - any idea where/if I could find this book? I am very interested in Swedish weaving. I love their no nonsense, practical approach and find it more appealing than all the "artsy" stuff you commonly see in the states. Thanks for everyone's advice and input! I can't wait to get something on my loom.

Thu, 02/14/2013 - 16:23

the busy weaver (not verified)

Kirsten - any idea where/if I could find this book? I am very interested in Swedish weaving. I love their no nonsense, practical approach and find it more appealing than all the "artsy" stuff you commonly see in the states. Thanks for everyone's advice and input! I can't wait to get something on my loom.

Thu, 02/14/2013 - 17:09

kerstinfroberg

The book I was referring to is called Ull och ylle, and is a doctoral thesis published in Lund 1943 (ca 800 pages).  It deals with the history of woolen manufacturing (?) in Sweden from "then" to the beginning of the 1900, with an emphasis on 1600 - 1700. It is not easy to find, and is not an easy read, either. I found 4 on www.antikvariat.net, but I guess postage would be crippling...

Thu, 02/14/2013 - 17:14

kerstinfroberg

The book I was referring to is called Ull och ylle, and is a doctoral thesis published in Lund 1943 (ca 800 pages).  It deals with the history of woolen manufacturing (?) in Sweden from "then" to the beginning of the 1900, with an emphasis on 1600 - 1700. It is not easy to find, and is not an easy read, either. I found 4 on www.antikvariat.net, but I guess postage would be crippling...

Thu, 02/14/2013 - 18:05

kerstinfroberg

sorry, forgot to mention the writer: Sven T Kjellberg.

Thu, 02/14/2013 - 18:16

Joanne Hall

You might try to find this out of print book by Ulla Cyrus Zetterstrom.  It was published in English a number of times, first with her last name of Cyrus and I am sure you can find copies on used book sites.

Joanne 

Thu, 02/14/2013 - 18:24

ReedGuy

If not, try the library services. They can bring in books from other libraries to loan. You can search for the title online or at your library and get them to order it. If it's no longer in copyright, it may be on some digitized archives online. I've found a few old books through the University of California.

Thu, 02/14/2013 - 19:01

laurafry

Another good source is Beverly Gordon's small book called The Final Step.  Great history of fulling and wet finishing wool in general.  I don't cover fulling that heavy a cloth in Magic in the Water, but you might find that useful, too.  It's now available in a pdf file as the original is out of print.

cheers,

Laura