Hello to all, and welcome new members. Now well into the twin seasons of " Mud & Sugar"-( maple syrup) in Vermont, and all that comes with a rural spring, I'll have less time to devote to my Marquardsen loom restoration.The last item on my list before dressing out the loom was to install my version of a "Weighted Temple". The temple is is quite easy to use, it works very smoothly, and leaves none of those perforations along the selvages. Best of all "One size fits all".The cost for my temple comes in at about half the price of a wooden temple at 60". It is constructed of a robust 1" x 1/4" steel flat bar, two "1/2 pulleys, two eye bolts, two tomato sauce cans, and 1/8" poly braided cord, the type used as draw strings in hooded jackets.The fabric clips are very inexpensive tarp hold down clips with key chains that swivel to eliminate cord twist. The weights are small plastic jars containing bird-shot ( lead pellets) packed tight with bubble wrap. My design also incorporates a bump rest for the beater. This type of temple can be used on most any loom design with some of the thought and attention payed to beater clearances. Much of this temple was constructed of on hand odds, and ends. Even if one were to purchase everything, it should come in at less than the cost of a quality wooden or metal temple. It would be great to see if others have also created their own version of a weighted temple! Perhaps a different design? Keep creating, keep improving! Regards, Frank- TheLoominary

Comments

Vicki Allen (not verified)

I hope you will post pictures of the temple in use when you get the loom dressed. I am still having trouble imagining just how it works.

Vicki Allen

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hello Vicki. I will indeed post pictures when the loom is dressed. The overall function for this type of temple is as that of the more conventional type. That is to keep the warp in line with the reed.The counter weights provide the spread of the fabric instead of temple bars with teeth. The clips provide the grip without damage to the selvage. Resetting the temple is quick with no fuss, and fabric advancement is the same as with any temple.The trick is to learn what weight works for whatever you are weaving. Any weighted object may be placed in the holders to fine tune it. Hope this helped a bit in explaining. Regards, Frank.

steve104c (not verified)

Frank, I have a Glimakra and I think it would work on it, except I would need to get it a little closer to the front beam. My take-up rachet for my fabric beam is a little closer to the front of the loom. My I have measurements and see if I can make one? My wife is a senior designer for an oil tool co. Saying that, I believe you are an "engineer". Keep on coming up with those fine ideas and designs to help us save $ and weave better..........Steve.

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi Steve, Here are some overall measurements on my temples. They are constructed of two pieces each, of 1/4"x 1" flat bar (H. Depot) The crane is 10" tall extends 4", with the last inch turned up at 45*. The bumper bracket is a squared U shaped 3" wide with 1 1/2" tabs.The little pulleys are 1/2" from on-line (Drillspot) Eye bolts are 3/16"x3"( H.Depot), trimmed to fit. The unit sits (on-center) at 1 3/4" from the edge of the beam.The flat bar was bent in my pipe vise with jaws covered with angle Iron to protect the metal surface.I used a 12 lb sledge hammer to bend it! You can use 3/16" bar, I just used what was on hand. Make one out of cardboard, sticks, and tape first, then you can use it for a template. Use clamps to hold things in place, check beater clearances, and remember to add the thickness of your metal at each bend to get the desired length of your piece. The temple should always be level with your fabric. I have a good source for rubber bumpers if you need them.Your loom will need it's own special measurements. Be sure the crane extends far enough out to clear the sides of your loom. Please ask anything you need, and remember ("Measure Twice, Cut Once!) Regards, Frank.