hi all!I am very new to weaving, and am in the process of starting a business around it. I need to make very fine, dense pieces of cloth and need some advice. I need the highest DPI possible to do on a rigid heddle, and currently have 12.5. Is there a higher dent reed that I can purchase? or can I make one? I would like to be able to use either 20/2 or 40/2 yarn, so I would need at least at 36 DPI, right?

 

 

Comments

Sat, 08/17/2013 - 02:29

Sara von Tresckow

Perhaps you need to study the capabilities of a rigid heddle loom a bit more. 12.5 is the finest reed available here in the US. Kircher looms in Germany makes a 15 dent rather expensively (they once mde them to 20 dpi, but they became too expensive and are no longer available.)

You can experiment using more than one heddle, but the results may not be dense and even enough to form a business with.

If you wish to use 20/2 or 40/2 cotton yarns, you'll need a floor loom, preferably a counterbalance or countermarche because rising shed looms do not allow as much density. The smallest floor loom that would suit your needs would be the Julia from Glimakra, or a Leclerc Fanny or Mira. Up from that, the Glimakra Ideal or the Oxaback Lilla.

Yes, that gets pricey, but to make fabric of the quality you desire, you need professional equipment to make professional cloth.

Sun, 08/18/2013 - 03:06

kveenhof

I am picking up my new LeClerc 60 inch 4 shaft Nilus Counterbalance tomorrow (do unbelievably stoked!!!!!), but it comes with a 12 dent reed and from what I can see, I can't purchase anything higher than a 25 dent reed. so if I want to make say a 48 epi fabric, would I need two reeds, or can I sley 4 threads through each slot? will that give me a sturdy cloth, or will it look odd?a another question; if I use size 8 thread, and sley one thread in each slot, will it give me the same results as on the rigid heddle, or will the weave be tighter? Basically, what I need is a very tight weave, something that I won't be able to see through at all

 

thanks for all your help! I am so new to this, and I am more of a hands on learner than a book learner, so its been a bit hard trying to figure this stuff out with no one in the area to teach me :)

 

 

 

 

Sun, 08/18/2013 - 03:18

laurafry

Yes you can put more than one end in a dent. Don't forget that the wet finishing may change the look and handle of the cloth, especially a good hard press. So while the cloth might look more open than you like on the loom, it may be just what you need after it has been processed. You may need to experiment some with different yarns, density and/or weave structures before you achieve the quality of cloth desired. Cheers Laura
Sun, 08/18/2013 - 03:35

kveenhof

thanks Laura! would doing a diamond weave change the density of the cloth at all?

Sun, 08/18/2013 - 05:45

laurafry

By diamond weave, I assume you mean some sort of point twill. Yes, generally twill structures are closer than plain weave, resulting in a thicker cloth, given the same size yarn. For example a 2/8 cotton might be woven at 18-20 epi/ppi for plain weave but at 24 for twill. Some samples with different weave structures and densities will assist you in developing the quality of cloth you need while you acquire the physical skills necessary to weave. You might find the videos I've posted to you tube helpful. Also my (and others) blogs. Cheers Laura
Sun, 08/18/2013 - 10:41

ReedGuy

Also, realize that the higher the dent of a reed, say beyond that 25 dent limit you encountered at Leclerc, you will need much much finer yarn. After a while, as you go higher in dents it becomes more steel wire than yarn for cloth. That has it's limits to, as you don't want the yarn ends packed too tight in a  dent or there will be shed troubles and wear on the yarn. As Laura said, you use more than one end of warp per dent. This increases the sett of any particular draft, meaning increased density across the width. But you need to balance this epi sett with wpi or a point twill will be skewed in width or length, depending on whether the warp or weft have more threads per inch. Sampling can not be avoided, especially if your new to weaving. You will not be selling cloth the week after you bought your first loom. This is going to take lots of time, ambition and dedication.

Sun, 08/18/2013 - 12:53

kveenhof

thanks! I have figured it will take a couple of years before I will be open for business. right now I am in the process of gathering yarns of different sizes from different companies to make samples with and figure out which would be best for me to work with. after I get that done I will start weaving, then once I have gotten out all the hiccups and bumps I will start working on the business aspect of it. lots of work! lol

Sun, 08/18/2013 - 13:15

laurafry

I gave myself five years to learn enough about the craft to hopefully be proficient. Then a further five years to learn the business. Good luck. Cheers Laura
Mon, 08/19/2013 - 04:27

kveenhof

thanks Laura!

I have my 4 shaft counterbalance loom now, and i am a bit stumped on reading the pattern I am trying. Is there a link, or are you able to explain for me, how to read the pattern drafts? For example, the one I have here; How do I read this and translate it into which threads go through which shafts? My current settings are 1-4, 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 2-4 and 1-3 but I gather that those are easily changed

k. 2/2 diamond twill

Mon, 08/19/2013 - 04:56

laurafry

I just wrote an article for Weaving Today which hopefully will be helpful. Google Weaving Today. It appeared on Friday. I just drove 13 hours and my brain is toast. If that article doesn't help, let me know. My brain should be back after a good nights sleep. :-/ Cheers Laura
Mon, 08/19/2013 - 08:12

ReedGuy

The upper right 4 x 4 cells is the treadle tie-up. The O's are the shafts on that treadle that go down, the blanks go up. They number the treadles from left to right, I usually go the other way numbering, but not an issue. The tie-up is read column by column, the cords for each treadle.

The shafts are the rows just above the image of the fabric interlacement. Usually the warp ends in that area are often on a grid instead of lines. Starting on the right side in that area, the first warp end is threaded on shaft 2, so bring the end through the shafts 4 and 3, but only in the first heddle on shaft 2. The heddles on shafts 4,3, and 1 are 'scooted' to the left of the end your passing into a heddle eye on shaft 2. Then take the next end and thread into shaft 3, while the unthreaded heddles on shafts 4, 2, 1 are scooted to the left. Carry on the same. Warp ends lie side by side as they pass through the shafts, even the shaft(s) not threaded with that end, the empty heddles are just pushed to the left. Think of it as looking from above down on them shafts as the ends pass through and your also looking down on the fabric as you weave and see the pattern develop. The threading is column by column in the draft, right to left. One warp end at a time. When treadling, the first treadle to tramp is treadle 2, this opens the shed for the shuttle with shafts 2 and 3 going down and 1 and 4 go up. One treadle at a time. Next will be tramp treadle 1, shafts 3 and 4 go down and 1 and 2 go up. The treadle sequence in that draft is row by row from the top.

'Big Book of Weaving' is a recommended text, found on Amazon.