Hi,

I am wondering if the sett in the reed on the warping wheel has to be the same sett you thread your reed on your loom at.  The sett that the warping wheel comes with is an 8 dent reed, and I'm weaving at a sett of 45epi, but would do 40epi on the warping wheel to make it easier to keep track (5ends per dent as opposed to 5/6per dent.  I'm planning on using a 15 dent reed on my loom, because I have to put groups of 3 threads together as I'm doing leno.  Will this work...warping at 40epi and then threading the reed at 45epi?  How does everyone make an 8 dent reed work for all their projects?  I don't want to buy another reed for the warping wheel as they are ridiculously high in price.  I hope this makes sense!

Thanks so much!

Joy McCallister

Comments

debmcclintock

Joy, Think reed rotation for warp section width. You rotate the small holder reed at a slant to control the width of your thread group as it is wound onto your sectional beam. Take a look at the reed holder to which you transfer that holder reed and you will see that a small knob allows you to offsett the reed. That rotate adjustment controls the warp section width. You do have to be thoughtful in the placement of your warp threads for counting purposes as you state above.

mrdubyah (not verified)

Joy, It is not necessary to match epi on the wheel and the loom.  Since you're planning on 3 ends per dent in the reed on the loom, you'll probably find it easiest to also put 3 ends in each dent of the reed on the warper as well.  That means you'll fill 30 of the 40 or so dents in the warper reed for each 2" wide bout on your beam.  Then you can just angle the warper reed so that the 30 sets of ends neatly fill each 2" wide bout while winding on.  

ReedGuy

I think that method is fine for narrow warps, but if you have a wide warp for the full width of the weaving in your loom your going to be short of ends for your project. Sometimes you have to increase sett in the sectional dividers. You may just have to go 48 in the sectional for instance. You still have your groups of three per loom reed dent.

Recently I'm weaving at 24 epi with an 8 dent reed, but I used a sectional sett of 33 to have enough ends across the full width of the loom reed.

mrdubyah (not verified)

I don't get it.  How can you run out of ends?  Is your reed wider than your beam? 

ReedGuy

Talking sectional dividers here, as stated in my previous post.  If you have a reed 60" long, the full weaving width of the loom, and a set of 45 epi for the full width, and you wind 30 epi per section......well. Those dividers also take up 1/8" an inch. So if you have say 50 U's that's 6-1/4" lost. So this has to be accounted for when winding warp in those sections. Maybe you havn't woven full width. But I just finished one project with a sett of 24 epi in the reed, but the dividers had to have a sett of 33 to fill all those reed dents and account for the U's that take up space. This is where I'm coming from. On a narrow piece you won't run into it most times. I did not see anywhere where the OP mentioned the width of the project.

kerstinfroberg

What am I not understanding here?

My sectional has 1" wide sections. Of course the actual width of each section is slightly smaller, but I always treat them as if they were 1". What I mean is: if I'm going to weave at 24 epi I just wind each section with 24 ends. After threading and sleying it comes out as 24 epi...

Here is the math: aiming to weave something 10" wide (in the reed) at 24 epi, I need 10 x 24 = 240 ends. Wanting to have the warp (on the beam) approximately the same width as the reed width, I will divide the 240 ends in 10 1" sections (or, as the case may be, 5 2" sections) - . (Incidentally, this works for full-width projects, too). If you are using 33 ends in each of the 10 sections, you would ends up with 10 x 33 = 330 ends. Sleyed at 24 epi that would give you (well, obviously not, but it would give *me*) 330 / 24 = 13 3/4" in the reed.

 

ReedGuy

Kerstin, yes exactly. It's when your sections are a full 1", where the sett is increased to have enough ends for the width of the reed. The U's won't be on 1" centres from section to section. That's where I'm coming from.