Can someone post step-by-step (photos) of how to do this, or refer me to a YouTube or blog post that visually demonstrates this technique?

Comments

Thu, 01/31/2013 - 20:26

Sara von Tresckow

You should have 2 lease sticks defining your cross.

Take the lease stick closest to your barrier and tip it on its side. This will create a small shed beyond the barrier point - you insert a stick into this shed and push away from the barrier point. Remove the lease stick used to create this shed.

Then take the second lease stick, repeat the procedure and remove this lease stick. The cross should now be held on a pair of sticks where you need it - join the least sticks to keep them from falling out and proceed.

 

Thu, 01/31/2013 - 21:23

endorph

has illustrations of transferring the cross in her How to warp a loom book (cna't remember the exact title) It illustrates what Sara just described.
Thu, 01/31/2013 - 21:59

sally orgren

I have lease sticks in behind the castle. The loom is beamed, but not threaded yet. I have the warp under tension via water weights in front. 

I would like to remove select areas of the warp in the back, reducing the overall width of the warp. My thought was to pull out those sections, insert the cross into them, and then let them hang off the back of the loom while I weave off the desired warp that remains. This way, I have a second set of warps with their own lease sticks that I can reintroduce for sampling when I finish this short warp.

SO, is this possible?

I have inserted the first stick parallel to an existing lease stick, (closest to the back of the loom), capturing just the warp sections I want to remove. Then what?

I want to capture the "opposite" lease stick warps (the one closest to the castle) on just these select warps... I wonder if I am trying to do something physically impossible?

My brain just can't think in 3D on this one, hence the request for photos!

FYI, the situation occurred because I wound too much warp for 1/2 of the width, so some has to be removed before threading. It has to be a "surgical" removal to conserve the intended pattern repeat. (Can't just take off one whole side). And the pattern I am threading does not produce tabby, so threading and then creating a shed to insert the second set of lease sticks won't quite work for this.

Any additional thoughts much appreciated! (When I get myself in a pickle, it IS usually a pretty good one!)

Sally

Thu, 01/31/2013 - 23:04

laurafry

It does sound like a pickle. Can you use short sticks to capture the cross on each side? That way each group of ends would have their own set of lease sticks independently. Cheers Laura
Fri, 02/01/2013 - 00:38

SallyE (not verified)

I think your solution is to use sturdy strings to capture the cross.   For each section you want to save for later, AND for each section you want to weave now, make a string cross.  

So for example, say you have 40 warp threads and you want to remove numbers 15 - 25 from the middle of the warp.   Take a string and pass it along the warp stick for 15 - 25, and then make a U-turn and pass it back again where the other least stick is.  That will leave two string tails at thread 15, with the cross captured.   Now tie the tails together to create a group that ties 15 - 25 together in a bunch but the strings capture the cross instead of the lease sticks.  Do the same thing for thread group 1 - 14, and for the thread group 26-40. 

Now double check that all the threads are captured in a string loop, and then remove the lease sticks.   Drop the group 15-25, and using your lease stick, pick up the cross again using the strings as a guide but just don't include the group 15-25.  

When that is done, you can remove the string cross threads EXCEPT for the warp groups you aren't planning to use.   You can wrap those groups around the beam and tie them down for storage until you want to use them at some future time.

Make sense?   Basically, when you first wound the warp, you created groups as you wound to help with the counting, you are just going back to that again, temporarily.

 

 

 

Fri, 02/01/2013 - 02:46

endorph

a transfer of the lease sticks - never mind! :)
Fri, 02/01/2013 - 07:32

kerstinfroberg

I'm more of a stick girl (than a string girl) - but in essence I would do as Sally E suggests. I would put a pair of lease sticks (or something rigid that can be tied together) in the middle ends (still using Sally E's example) - then I would put lease sticks in the outer sections (dropping the middle). After securing the new lease sticks, the original pair can be taken out. (And - as this is the best tip *ever*, IMO - here is how to secure lease (and all other kinds) sticks: http://bergdalaspinnhus.com/tricks/leaseeng.html)

And on my blog I have pictures of transferring the cross - scroll down a bit.

Fri, 02/01/2013 - 16:22

sally orgren

Your additional thoughts were very helpful!

Sally E's suggestion of a "softer" solution was a start. And yes, what I was attempting to do was more complicated than just transferring a cross, I realized. I really wanted to separate out a warp, and transfer the cross to this second warp I was removing. It took me all evening of fiddling, but finally I got them separated with individual crosses. Now, just a few corrections to make...

The bad news is I should have pulled the warp I wanted to eliminate to the TOP, not left it on the bottom. Dope-slap to the forehead on that one. (However, I think I can fix this.)

Instead of string, I used the white, flexible plastic strapping tape that comes wrapped about TV, computer, and office paper boxes. Following the lease stick path, I used this flexible tool to segment out the warp I wanted to keep. (* I should have selected the warp I wanted to remove!) I slid a rigid metal lease stick along the same path & called that A. I went to the other "original" lease stick, and only focused on the selected groups from A, picking up their counterparts on the plastic strapping tape. I did not join the two sticks, but slid them out to the perimeter of my working area, which was very small on the back of a Voyager! The original lease sticks were still in place, too.

Now that I had the cross transferred to my desired warp A, I had to disentangle the original lease sticks. I can't just pull them out, because I need the cross in place on the warp I will be removing. So I had to repeat the process with the warps I wanted to remove, segmenting them out with the strapping tape, and I called that path B. So at one point, yes, I have 6 lease sticks in the warp!

Here is the (nearly) final result. (Yes, you can see I had a few errant warps I need to correct!) I'd love to post the process photos here, but I think it will be easier to do so as a project post. (For some reason, I can never post more than one photo to a thread, and it can be a glitchy process.) This project is far from over—but thanks for getting me this far!