I'm graduating from a warping board to a warping mill. Using the mill should be straightforward, but one question. Do I not overlap warp threads on the mill, just like you wouldn't overlap on a warping board? In other words, I don't want to pile threads on top of threads, and all threads should sit next to another thread, not on top of others. Is this correct? I've watched some videos about using a mill, but none address this question.

Comments

Fri, 12/13/2013 - 05:13

Sara von Tresckow

I usually lay the thread at the upper edge of the bout on the way down and at the lower edge on the way up. If the bout spreads, I pinch it together where it makes contact with the corners of the mill. 

This keeps things tidy.

Fri, 12/13/2013 - 08:45

ReedGuy

Where I keep threads side by side as at the one end I do the cross. When the dowels get loaded I remove that bout with all the proper ties in place, place it on the tie rod and I start a new bout. I do not worry about the opposite turn dowel bunching up, I just make sure a string goes in the loop before removal. I also keep the warp from spreading at the corners of the mill and it just seems natural to do as Sara is suggesting about going up and down. I hold up to four ends at a time and only in one hand, palm down  going up, palm up going down an no twist at the turn dowels. Your mill swings, so go over the top of the turn dowls, there is no need to twist or switch hands with this method. If you go under you will twist, unless you want to turn yourself inside out. :)

Sun, 12/15/2013 - 00:10

Joanne Hall

There will always be a twist at the ends when winding more than one thread, but it really does not matter.  I always keep my hand in the most comfortable position, usually palm down.  Winding more than one thread makes beaming much easier if the sett is more than 8 or 10 per inch, so it is important to do that.

For winding on a reel, one usually has a guide string to follow, especially when making more than one bout.  For accurate winding, which gives equal length to each end, one just needs to stay withing a half inch or maybe an inch of that guide string, which needs to be put on fairly tightly. 

I wind fast, so I don't place the yarn in any particular manner.  I just keep it close to the guide string and I don't make large bouts.  After more than 40 plus years of winding warps, this has worked well for me.  I know that some will carefully put the threads one on top of another, but that would be too slow.

I watched a couple films on youtube and I noticed two things that I would suggest to them or to anyone.  One is that the guide string does not need to be down low or up high.  That does not need to be done unless the warp is very long.  I keep the guide string no higher than my shoulders and no lower than my hips.   It would take a very long warp for me to go higher or lower. 

The other is that they spread the warp out too wide, trying to line up the ends beside each other, which causes them to stray too far from the guide string.  The instructions on these youtube films I have seen makes winding a warp very tedius and slow.

Joanne

Sun, 12/15/2013 - 00:53

ReedGuy

There is no twist at the turns, but the threads being kept snug with the guide string will have some crossing. But that crossing isn't a problem. I would have to show you how I move over the turn dowls to show you it doesn't twist. Coming from one way by palm is down, going back it is up. A mill turns so this is easy. A warping board does not unless it's on a lazy susan or something, so it will twist on the return. Right now I am doing a double weave with several colors that are wound in pairs. There are almost 1000 ends of wool yarn, so to not get confused with a banner sized threading sequence (to be able to read it) on paper, it's easier to keep the color order in the cross. But I'm sure it's possible to get one flipped now and again. The mistakes that can arrive is when you come to a section when the pairs are one color and that one color is the same as one of them in the previous pair of ends. So for instance, a repeat of 32- blue and green pairs, then you hit 8 blue ends. Remember your winding warp for left to right, but threading right to left. hahaha

This can create loss of hair and madness. :D

Anyway, I have a system that I stick with. :)

Sun, 12/15/2013 - 03:17

laurafry

Joanne makes a good point about working ergonomicly, ie keeping your arm motion between shoulder and hip. This is a good idea for a warping board, too. Cheers Laura
Sun, 12/15/2013 - 08:55

ReedGuy

I took Joannes advice on the height limts on the mill, since I do short warps. I stay on the top 3rd of the mill. However, going from top to bottom was never a problem and good execise. But some folks may not be as limber.

Sun, 12/15/2013 - 15:34

Sara von Tresckow

Joanne is right, I've done the mill with both laying the threads next to one another and just laying them down in an orderly fashion - both ways work.

One thing to remember here is that the area(s) around the cross pegs is loom waste. What happens there in terms of a thread twisting, joining a new color, etc. will never show up on the loom.

Also, thanks to Joanne for taking time to watch videos out on YouTube. There are far too many poorly planned and filmed videos out there of people showing what they have barely learned - and far too often the method they are showing is some kluge that allows them to complete what they are doing, but is not something for others to imitate.

If a publisher has paid an author to write and edit a book, it is usually a good sign that that material is worth learning.

Tue, 12/17/2013 - 01:31

Weavin Steven

The mill I ordered should be here soon. Thanks again everyone.

I imagine the first few times I use it, I'll be a bit slow. But in the long run, I know it will be much speedier than a warping board.

Tue, 12/17/2013 - 10:26

ReedGuy

It won't take you long to get up to speed. :)

Used mine Sunday to measure a blanket warp, this will be followed later by another with different wool.