I am planning to weave fabric for a suit, and would like your opinion as to what you have found to be the best fiber to use.  I am leaning towards tencel  or a wool/silk blend (but that would be extremely expensive).... any thoughts?  My draft specifies 48 epi, so that limits certain yarns. I did the sample in 10/2 cotton which turned out to be exactly what I have in mind, but do not wish to use cotton for this project.

D

Comments

Tue, 07/14/2015 - 14:51

Sara von Tresckow

First off, you draft can easily be modified to another sett if you find a yarn that you love.

For 48 epi in a twill or twill variation, look at 20/2 worsted wool (or worsted heather) from Jaggerspun or the 18/2 Zephyr from Jaggerspun (wool silk).

The worsted wool is not as "soft", but longer wearing. I once used some Zephyr alongside Shetland mill ends in a jacket and the Zephyr necessitated leather "professor patches" on the elbows long before the jacket was unwearable.

You could probably look at any yarns that are suitable for a 35-40 epi range as well and then adjust your draft.

 

Wed, 07/15/2015 - 04:00

sandra.eberhar…

You can check Ebay for worsted mill ends; I have heard that EPIC yarns will be coming back, which would be a soft 2/20 yarn.  I would look for a worsted 2/20 to 2/40 yarn.  You haven't said what kind of suit you want to make; if you want to make something like a Chanel jacket, something heavier and softer could work.

Wed, 07/15/2015 - 13:29

D-Stitchins Studio

Thanks, I will research both of your ideas.  The worsted wool idea seems to be the most appropriate.  I knew someone on this list would have had experience with suitings.  I have made suits before, but that was before I could actually make the fabric myself, I am excited to try this.

D

Fri, 07/17/2015 - 01:53

sandra.eberhar…

Much of the very high quality mensware suiting that I have used is calendered.  This is pressing the fabric between rollers at high pressure to flatten the yarns.  This makes the fabric very thin and smooth, which takes tailoring details well and is easy to work with.  I'm not sure if this would be appropriate for what you want to do, but just a note.

Fri, 07/17/2015 - 13:11

ReedGuy

Epic was beautiful yarn, I hope it does come back. :)

 

How about cold mangling for the press?

Fri, 07/17/2015 - 15:53

kerstinfroberg

Cold mangling is cold; press is hot - give very different results.

I like to mangle my woollens too (ie not only cottons, linens & silks), but it yields different results. My best results have been with pressing first, but not until quite dry, then immediately mangling (while still damp).

Fri, 07/17/2015 - 16:05

ReedGuy

Ah, thanks for the explanation. I think most shops (as few that exist in my area) would have a press, but probably no mangle.