I think I'm just going to replace the chains. From what I've found on the net, the style that is on the loom now is called a "sash chain." It is flat and folded over on the next link. Here's a picture: http://www.allproducts.com/metal/dotto/12-steel_sash_chain-l.jpg Mine looks like the third one from the left. (well, it would if it weren't all rusty) My question is, does it matter what type of chain? I'm guessing that it doesn't, but is there any advantage to using this type over another? It doesn't have a lot of "twist" capability, and I guess that would be good for just raising and lowering shafts in a straight line..... ......and for that matter, does it have to be chain? Heavy cord would certainly be quieter, right? Thoughts?

Comments

Thu, 03/03/2011 - 12:27

Michael White

No, the type of chain is not that important. But the type of chain being used is inexpensive and locally available. Because of the weight of the frames I would not use cord.

Michael

Thu, 03/03/2011 - 12:46

andsewon (not verified)

I had also thought about using the rust converter spray on them. At least they wouldn't be rusty anymore. I think they'd be a dull black. Would black chains look horrible?
Thu, 03/03/2011 - 12:54

Michael White

This is not a good idea. This would keep the chains from being flexible.

Michael

Thu, 03/03/2011 - 12:58

andsewon (not verified)

I agree that regular paint would be bad, but this stuff is rust converter and is really thin. It looks more like black water when it goes on. It attacks the rust and chemically changes it. Still think that would be bad?
Thu, 03/03/2011 - 13:01

Michael White

The question is will the chains flex?

 

Thu, 03/03/2011 - 13:04

andsewon (not verified)

Yes, I think they will still flex just fine. Basically, I guess I can try it on them. If it doesn't work out, I'll just replace them. They don't look nice the way they are, so... But I'm curious as to why they need to flex? If they're just hanging there going up and down in a straight line.......
Mon, 03/07/2011 - 02:43

Michael White

Are they going "straight" up and down. The basic answer is no, the heddle frames move in all directions. Not much but they move. This is a issue in frames that move in a track. When a warp thread has a knot and gets jammed in a heddle eye it breaks the thread or bends the heddle. With a free swinging frame you can see the frame move and correct the problem.

Michael

Thu, 03/03/2011 - 16:58

andsewon (not verified)

Very interesting. I've never used a loom with free swinging frames. Good to know!
Sat, 03/05/2011 - 15:13

andsewon (not verified)

Ok, so I've been doing some experiments on rust removal from the harness chains. First I tried Coke. It's been soaking for about 3 days. The rust seems a tiny bit looser/easier to remove with a wire brush, but no huge difference. Second, Michael suggested trying white Vinegar. It's been soaking for 2 days and there are lots of big flakes of rust lying in the bottom of the plastic dish. I'm thinking that if it soaked a full week, it would probably get enough off that I could finish up with a wire brush pretty easily. Third, I bought some of the Krud Kutter Rust Remover and Inhibitor at Menard's this evening. After only a few minutes, I could see a difference. The bottle says to wait 30 minutes. I wouldn't care if it took several hours. The 32oz bottle was only $5.76. If this works, it's cheaper than replacing them and less work. Will report back....... ETA: Ok, so I let them soak overnight in the stuff. These are evidently galvanized and that must take longer to work than plain steel. The previous owner had very neatly tied the unused chains up underneath the storage box in the castle with a metal hook going from the right chain to the left chain. (Evidently she was only using 4 harnesses) The side that was against the storage box was rusted a lot. The other side had less. Results: It definitely did a number on the rust! But not completely gone yet. Back in the solution they go! One of the chains, I think the one that had been soaking in vinegar already, looked good, so I took it out and dried it off. No rust, but not shiney. So I took a wire brush and buffed it up. I think the rust inhibitor that is in this stuff leaves a dull finish. But it didn't take much to make it shine, so at the moment, this is the plan.
Sat, 03/05/2011 - 12:25

wolfmoonweaver (not verified)

I just replaced the chains on my Macomber. I don't remember exactly what I paid, but it wasn't much. I think it would be a lot easier to just replace them, than to try and paint the old ones.

I did paint the harness frames, however, and they look a lot better. I also removed as much rust from the heddle strips as I could. The heddles were in good shape already.

Louise

Sat, 03/05/2011 - 15:15

andsewon (not verified)

Hi Louise, What type of chain did you buy to replace them? I looked at Menard's last night and they had "jack chain," "double loop chain," etc. Nothing looked right to me......
Sat, 03/05/2011 - 16:27

Michael White

The chain is called "sash chain" you can purchase it from the Home Depot here for .86 foot. My local hardware store will sell me the chain at .60 foot they have a 250 foot box of it.

Sun, 03/06/2011 - 04:46

andsewon (not verified)

Hi Michael, Yes, that's what I have. I had already found some on the net, so I knew what the name of mine is. I was just wondering what she used. Well, I have about half of my chains all shined up. The Krud Kutter did a pretty decent job and I buffed them to a shine with my wire brush. Didn't take long. The other half are soaking now.
Sun, 03/06/2011 - 15:39

Michael White

sounds like you are making progess. I am waiting for the rain to break here to work on rusty frames, heddle bars, lamms for the 4 frames going on Cheryl's loom and the 4 I sold. I sold the 4 harness kits(as is) to someone waiting to get the money together. So if I have to clean up 4 I may as well clean all 8. Now the question is what am I going to do with the frame. It is in very poor shape with all the end gain checked (cracked) If anyone wants a B4-D 48" frame with out any harnesses or treadles they can have it for free. 

Michael  

Sun, 03/06/2011 - 16:22

andsewon (not verified)

Michael, You could remove all the metal bits and the warp beams and sell those. I'm sure somebody out there needs replacement parts like this. For example, mine only has the single-style heel rest brackets. I think on the newer ones, there are two slots for the heel rest so the weaver has a choice. etc.
Sun, 03/06/2011 - 16:33

Michael White

That is what I had in mind also.

michael

Mon, 03/07/2011 - 05:16

andsewon (not verified)

All 24 harness chains and two brake chains are shiney and purdy. ;o) I even threw the bolts and wing nuts (that hold the reed in the beater) into the Krud Kutter Rust Remover and they look great now. That is wonderful stuff, but definitely doesn't work as fast as they say......at least not on galvanized metal. It took a good soaking for almost two days, but did a really good job.
Tue, 03/22/2011 - 21:46

wolfmoonweaver (not verified)

sorry, I haven't been checking back on this, and I see you've got your chains all back on, but I couldn't find that type of chain at Menard's or Lowe's, but did find them at my local old-fashioned hardware store.

Louise