one truly dumb question, one observation

Before i post the very dumb and embarrassing question, here is something nice!  I stumbled upon a youtube video entitled "Oppsett av vev" from Oslo.  I'm not sure if posting a link is permitted here, and will understand if the webmaster deletes, but here it is:  <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F47g5kbmxIk>  Even without language comprehension, after purchasing Becky Ashenden's "Dress your loom the Swedish way" even a limited experience person such as i am (*especially* with countermarch) can follow and understand.  The loom is gorgeous with a capital G.  Is it an Oxaback?  I wonder if anyone can determine from the video the size?  It is horizontal countermarch and the Oxaback's i've seen (remember, pretty much a beginner with countermarch and big, fancy floor looms!) are vertical countermarch.  Would love to know!  Ok, now the absolutely dumb, stupid, idiotic question:  i was a bit too "thorough" cutting the Texsolv heddles apart and cut a few heddles. . .is there a way to fix them, i.e. tie them back together at one end?  Or are they toast?

Comments

Mon, 03/07/2016 - 14:14

Sara von Tresckow

The loom is lovely, but I do not recognize the maker. It is not an Oxaback. I see that you have left comments at the video locatio - that is probably the best for now. 

Since the video was made in Norway, you might try contacting Digital Weaving Norway if they know the origin of the loom - it certainly looks quite new.

http://www.digitalweaving.no/en/

Interesting is also that the tieup is done the old fashioned way. For those contemplating countermarche looms, it is a clear illustration of why countermarche looms were not widely used by home hobby weavers until Texsolv cord simplified the process.

Mon, 03/07/2016 - 16:51

LynneAdair

Thank you for the link Sarah.  I must be somewhat of a glutton for punishment, but that old fashioned tieup is interesting! 

Sat, 03/12/2016 - 19:11

jander14indoor (not verified)

OK, had a chance to view that video and I have a question on something that seems counter to what I understand about the fell line and the beater.

About 42 minutes in the demonstrator starts throwing the shuttle and beating.  I notice the neutral or vertical point of the hanging beater is about 8-10 inches away from the fell line.  When the beater hits the fell line it is angled fairly significantly up.

I thought I understood the ideal position of the beater to the fell was as close to vertical (at right angles to the cloth) as you could keep it.

I see an advantage or solution to a struggle I have on my Cranbrook in that shuttle is thrown with the beater in its neutral position or slightly back. This lets you throw the shuttle without having to hold the beater well back from the fell.

Am I seeing this right?  On my Cranbrook should I adjust fell and beater to this relation?

 

Thanks,

Jeff Anderson

Livonia, MI

Sun, 03/20/2016 - 08:06

Erica J

Your question is probably related to a discussion I had at my land guild meeting yesterday. One of my guild mates said she prefered a particular table loom, over the brand I prefer, because she doesn't have to move the warp as often on hers. She asked if I found I had to advance my warp a lot of my table loom.

In all honesty I'm fine with everyone having their own preferences and I think the brand of loom she prefers is fine. However, I do not find that I have t advance my warp "a lot". When I do advance the warp, I move the fell quite close to the breast beam and weave until my shuttle is sliding along the reed. 

I know this is a long way to go to answer your question, but I think the "ideal" angle of the reed at the fell is a common myth myself. I think it helps when you are new to weaving to use this ideal, however as you get more experienced you will not need to worry about the angle of the reed at the fell, as you will build the muscle memory of how much force to use to properly beat your weft for your purpose.

I hope that helps,

Erica

Sun, 03/20/2016 - 15:09

laurafry

As the angle of attack changes, the degree of 'force' may have to change in order to beat the weft into place.  As Erica days, the ideal is that the reed will be upright when it pushes the weft into place like this | rather than / or \.  When the angle of the reed is not vertical, there will be a lifting up or pushing down, while a vertical presentation will push in.

so long as you are getting the results you desire, all is well.  That said, different looms will have a larger or smaller sweet spot.  Only experience and careful observation of your results will tell you what is appropriate.  

In some instances I have had to adjust where the fell is, based on what yarn is being used...it depends...

Sun, 03/20/2016 - 15:54

Sara von Tresckow

Jeff,

The Cranbrook works better if you do push that beater back when shuttling. It places the beater in a better position to give a firm beat. I usually do slow rugs on mine, but when treadling for fabric, that motion of pushing the beater back, changing hands as the shuttle flies, and pulling back on the beater with your whole body is one of the advantages of the countermarche loom. That gentle rocking is good for your body.

The beater of a cm loom should never be "just hanging" when the shuttle is inserted. The"good shed" comes only when pushed back.

Tue, 03/22/2016 - 07:45

jander14indoor (not verified)

Thanks Sara.  I haven't used the loom enough to be very coordinated with that yet, has been hard for me to visualize. 

Does the following youtube video capture what you are describing?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOjRPOUnxRc&spfreload=10

Tue, 03/22/2016 - 14:00

Sara von Tresckow

Yes, this is exactly what I was describing. Takes a little practice to master, but, as you can see, the whole body is involved in a rhythmic way that becomes quite enjoyable.

Tue, 03/22/2016 - 15:57

laurafry

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDRGwbu76mA

This profile was done a couple of years ago but I thought she did a good job

Tue, 03/22/2016 - 15:57

laurafry

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDRGwbu76mA

This profile was done a couple of years ago but I thought she did a good job

Wed, 03/23/2016 - 02:36

Joanne Hall

Hi Sara,

I have studied several Cranbrook looms lately and I have noticed that the shafts sit a distance behind the beater, a much greater distance than on other looms.  Even the new ones, which I studied recently, still have the shaft hanging much further behind the beater.  When I wove on a new one recently, I found a greater need to push the beater back, in order to get a shed large enough for the shuttle.

Of course, this also depends on how large that shuttle is.  Often, I don't have to push the beater back to weave, since the Swedish shuttles, even the ski shuttles are more slender than other shuttles. 

Joanne

Wed, 03/23/2016 - 11:28

ReedGuy

I don't find the need to push back always. Depends how close I am to the reed from the fell, if I'm using a FS, and sometimes the draft/tie-up. My beater is a bit weighted on the race side and automatically rocks back anyway when at rest position, so there is little effort required to have the beater move back once the current weft pick is beaten in. A large race also keeps one from advancing warp too far toward the breast beam, where there would be too high a swing angle at the weft.

Wed, 03/23/2016 - 14:08

Sara von Tresckow

Joanne,

I work on a Cranbrook - so far exclusively for rugs. Most are weft faced wool with handspun weft and contain at least parts that are worked in tapestry techniques. I find the placement of the shafts and beater ideal for this situation. Remember, the Cranbrook was designed for Saarinen's wife to do massive rya and flossa rugs. I even mounted my 4 shafts in the position where the back 4 of an eight shaft loom should sit to have a larger area to observe design development. The treadle locks and widely spaced treadles are great in this situation, but am planning to try a tablecloth soon and think that that will actually hinder treadling.

For anyone wanting a general purpose countermarche loom, they should consider any of the "standard" models out there from various Scandinavian makers. The Cranbrook, for me, is a specialty loom for rugs and tapestries.

As for pushing the beater back, I've always worked on cm looms with overhead beaters. That push is just part of weaving, it isn't something "to not do to get away with it". Actually, I've never really considered it pushing the beater back as much as leaning on the beater while throwing the shuttle. It provides a nice balance for the body and contributes to gentle motion that keeps the upper body somethat limber.

Wed, 03/23/2016 - 14:52

Joanne Hall

Yes, rug weaving has it's own motions.  When one is weaving a one shuttle weave, after getting started with a little practice, you may find that the beater is always in motion and it naturally swings almost on it's own. 

Joanne

Thu, 03/24/2016 - 18:39

alfred

I was amused to see that the first link offered was actually a video of me at my Cranbrook loom. When I made that video it was to help a friend who wanted to see all the motions broken down and slowed down, so in it I'm weaving rather slower than usual. At speed, there is almost zero effort involved when beating: most of it is momentum. Before I ever wove with a hanging beater, I had assumed that it might take extra effort because of swinging the beater back first, but as it turned out, once I got the knack of it, it was much easier. The evenness of my beat improved vastly, too. And as Sara mentions above, the rocking rhythm is great for the body.
Thu, 03/24/2016 - 19:07

Queezle

Are hanging beaters only on CM and Scandanavian looms? 

One day I will upgrade my "fleet", and all indications point to something Scandanavian. However, I live in a mid-century house, and so Sara, your mention of Saarinen really caught my eye!  And Alfred, now I know that I must go look at the video!

 

Thu, 03/24/2016 - 21:25

Sara von Tresckow

There are many looms with hanging beaters. With today's search engines, you might h ave some fun looking up which models have them.

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 00:02

Lunargent

Okay, but back to the other question: what about the cut-up Texsolv heddles?

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 00:17

sandra.eberhar…

Your heddles are toast.  There is no way to retie the heddles to the size that they were without a great deal of effort. I think that most people would not think a heddle worth a few cents would be worth the effort of retieing.

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 12:16

LynneAdair

Thank you for your reply Whitesofadog.  And in fact, your mention of not wanting to save heddles as they are inexpensive, leads me to something i've been wondering about lately.  I have just this month retired from a state university, and will need to be fairly frugal possibly for the rest of my life.  So, saying that, have i embarked on an expensive hobby, one suitable only for those with extensive cash reserves?  Should i abandon all hope?  Seeking out a work-around for even something so menial as heddles might be only the beginning for me.  I may actually need to spin to weave as i do now for knitting yarn.  Please let me know before i spend any more of my cash reserves on a hobby i may not actually be able to afford. 

Thank you, Lynne

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 14:00

Sara von Tresckow

Weaving can be affordable - BUT (and this is a large item) you really need to observe, read and understand the types of looms, fabrics, and accessories that go with weaving. It is NOT a hobby, but a gentrified apprenticed handwork. While is involves more than just knitting needles, you can start simple and see where it takes you. There are home built frame looms with heddling bars, home built Navajo looms, used looms, small rigid heddle looms - and there are also TC-1 and TC-1 looms costing thousands of dollars.

By reading up on equipment and what each loom type will produce, you can find a good fit for you that is within your budget. 

I don't think that any of us are making light of toasting your heddles, but what can't be fixed can't be fixed. It is a sign that as you move into weaving that you move carefully so as not to repeat this.

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 16:46

LynneAdair

Thank you Sarah.  I do appreciate your philosophy regarding weaving as an aprenticeship, and to move "carefully" so as not to repeat mistakes. . . actually, i was moving "carefully" trying not to make a mistake the first time, by following directions provided by a DVD. . . and after cutting the few heddles realized that those directions were provided by someone with vast knowledge and experience, who knew her craft (art) well, not someone returning to something that brought joy over twenty years ago.

I'm glad weaving can be an affordable venture.   Being well over 70 though, i'm not sure how much time is left to me to serve an apprenticeship.  I hope i can just do the best i can, and, from time to time, ask questions respectfully of others with more experience. 

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 17:54

sally orgren

by trying hot glue at the top of the Texsolv heddles where you cut them, to try and save them?

Or even burning the fiber enough that it melts, and can then be pressed to the other end?

Or replacing them with string heddles you make yourself?

If you get involved with a guild, the group can certainly help with your learning curve, accessing reliable weaving resources like books and DVD's if they have a lending library, and locating recommended equipment at reasonable cost or sometimes for free. Families of former weavers typically contact local guilds when they need to disperse a weaver's collection and that is how many weavers begin their journey as they build their knowledge, skills, equipment and stash. You also might find your local guild has many members similar in age to you.

Once you develop solid skills, you not only become a better weaver, but you can plan your projects more economically.

But weaving is not a cheap, fast, or easy undertaking.

Fascinating? Absolutely!

 

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 17:59

Sara von Tresckow

Try good books, DVD and video presentations are an open invitation to make mistakes because it is difficult to pause them. And there are a number of supposed experienced weavers out there who, particularly in videos, give unclear or even unusable information. That is why my suggestion to use libraries, internet searches and a bit of study of the subject before diving in.

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 20:39

LynneAdair

Sally, thank you for your much appreciated suggestions and advice.  I do agree wholeheartedly that weaving is a fascinating study.  One i've been dreaming of undertaking for many years.  Let the "apprenticeship" begin. :)

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 20:46

laurafry

Learning how to create textiles is an on-going experience.  I've been weaving for 40 years and still learn new stuff.  If not now, when?  :)  Enjoy the journey where ever it may take you.

 

 

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 20:49

LynneAdair

Excellent advice Sarah!  I have some too-- Marguerite Porter Davison's 1989 edition of *A Handwaver's Pattern Book*;" Mary Black's *A Key to Weaving*; and others on my bookshelves too.  And the university nearby has a library full which supports the weaving program in the Art Department.  Sounds like i need to dust off my study skills.  Thank you Sarah.  I genuinely appreciate your time and attention. :) 

P.S. i retired this month from my postion in the university's music library, and with degrees in Eng. lit. i do love books.

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 20:51

LynneAdair

Thank you Laura. Deeply appreciated advice (and encouragement).

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 21:50

kerstinfroberg

there are books, and there are books... A book consisting of "recipes" will not (in my experience) tell anything about cutting (or, for that matter, tieing) heddles. Usually, it will not even tell much about how thread interlacement(s) work, in order to create a serviceable cloth.

My advice would be: try to find a book (one ought to suffice) telling "all" about how a loom works - why heddleas are there, why they have to be uniform, why tension is important... for short, the "craft" as opposed to the patterning. - Which book? I wouldn't know, being from a different culture/language...

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 22:02

ReedGuy

"The Big Book of Weaving" by Laila Lundell would be a pretty good start. :)

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 22:24

LynneAdair

I agree Kerstin.  Years ago i worked as a costumed interpretor for a living history museum, and spent an entire winter with a heddle jig tieing string heddles for looms in two of the farm house sites.  Killed my wrists. . . must have been thousands tied those winter months.  I wove on those counterbalance barn style looms too, but since it was an historic site interpreting the 1700s, we only wove tabby, and mostly linen.  But that was a while ago.

I agree that i do need a refesher (obviously!).  And i'll seek out several books to help me out.  I do appreciate your suggestions and advice, thank you!

Fri, 03/25/2016 - 22:27

LynneAdair

Great!  Thank you so much for the suggestions ReedGuy!  I've seen that title several times in various weaving related places.  I'll look into it.  Thank you again!

Sat, 03/26/2016 - 00:14

sandra.eberhar…

There are many different types of weavers here, which is one of the great values of this resource.  There are people that are proffesional weavers, and their input is an incredible value.  There are weavers that have little budget or time, but do what they can to create.  I have a full time job and a hefty commute, and my time is budgeted in the same way money is.  Weavers who don't have time constraints may find it cost effective to repair damaged texsolve, or other heddles, but for texsolve, it  may be difficult.  If you cut so many heddles that you need more, and don't want to buy more, your best bet is to make a jig and tie some, in the way that has been suggested.  You don't have to have a big floor loom and lots of accessories to weave; people have woven on backstrap looms, rigid heddle looms, and warped on three nails driven into the barn very well.  

Sat, 03/26/2016 - 14:39

Joanne Hall

It can be helpful to weave something that has been developed by experienced weavers.  There are some towel and blanket projects here:

http://glimakrausa.com/yarn-and-weaving-kits/free/

Sat, 03/26/2016 - 16:15

LynneAdair

Yes, i do appreciate budgeting time too.  I've only been retired for 26 days from my full-time job and it does take some adjustment, even with all those things i wanted to pursue coursing through my mind.  And i'm a bit scared too, because retirement benefits, while i'm glad to have them at all, are rather minimal.  I did buy another 100 heddles, even though i only damaged two.  It may be nice to have them on hand, especially when the budget contraints kick in.  

I agree that this site is a wonderful resource, and that there are many ways of skinning the weaving cat. There still is the crazy dream, once i've finished a project or ten, or more (!) on Julia, to save my pennies for a Glimakra Standard.  It may never happen, i might need to learn double or triple weave, but the dream is there nevertheless.  Three nails driven into the barn sounds like a great idea. . . if only i had a barn!  (i do understand your meaning though.)

Thank you for your very informative reply, much appreciated.  :)

Sat, 03/26/2016 - 16:12

LynneAdair

Hi Joanne,

Actually i did buy the My First Towels kit from The Woolery.  That 8/2 cotton scares me, but i will forge ahead.  At present, the first warp on Julia is some 8/2 weaving wool i bought from Webs several years ago.  I'm hoping wool will be a forgiving fiber for this first warp! 

All is set up to begin, even the knee-busting treddle tie-up.  But...oh golly...i do need to adjust the treddle tie-up on three (half right anyway, progress!) to raise and lower the associated shafts and actually create a decent shed. I will get there, slowly and i hope, surely.  So many threads, so little (as yet) understanding.  :)

Sat, 03/26/2016 - 16:25

LynneAdair

. . .for the excellent instructions you wrote for tieing up the Julia countermarche loom.  Your clear, concise and detailed guidance served Julia and me well as we got to know each other a little better.  Her innards, my comprehension.  It wasn't as bad as i feared.  Just my crazy arthritic knees are a problem.  Now that i am no longer at a desk all day, with time they'll get stronger too and i'll be up and down like a yo-yo tieing Julia up for all sorts of projects.  Your instructions were invaluable Joanne, and most genuinely appreciated.  :)

Sun, 03/27/2016 - 21:33

Joanne Hall

And if you have someone nearby when you are ready to work on the treadle tie-up, it is not hard to lift the loom up onto a table.  Then you can sit in a chair to do the tie-up.  You just need a table that is more than 32 inches wide. 

Joanne

Wed, 03/30/2016 - 05:24

Gone

 to see Lynn's question. I was looking for information on whether or not to cut the heddles apart. I saw WSD comment that the heddles are toast. I'm assuming that means only ones which Lynn cut, but not the ones  separated from the rest. 

I was wondering about the downside of separating them if there is any.  I'm only asking because it seems threading might be easier if they were individual, rather than connected. But I don't want to cut them apart if it's recommended not to.

One of my shafts has used heddles - some of which the previous owner separated in a few places. Groups of 4 or 8, here and there. Not every one. Should I separate them or not? Any feedback is much appreciated.

Tom Z.

Wed, 03/30/2016 - 06:35

laurafry

Personal preference.  I cut mine apart.  My loom has 16 shafts and it would be impossible to reach all the way through to the back of the loom if the heddles were still connected.  Others prefer to leave them connected.  Like most things about weaving...it depends...

Wed, 03/30/2016 - 12:11

LynneAdair

Hi Tom,

I think from now on, i am going to cut the heddles apart *after* i have placed the new pack of still connected heddles on the top and bottom shaft bars and spread them apart.  Then i can easily see just where to snip them apart to create individual heddles.  My error came from trying to snip them apart while they were still in the twist ties and *before* they were on the shafts.  An experienced person can easily cut them apart that way, but this was the first time i used Texsolv heddles and just didn't completely understand exactly what i was doing.  I was following instructions in a DVD narrated by a very experienced and knowledgable weaver and i am far from that!  In the case of your heddles, since they are on the shaft bars already, you can see the loops at the top (top shaft bar) and at the bottom (bottom shaft bar) and precisely where to snip those connecting loops--at the very topmost part of the loop.  That way you will have no trouble separating those heddles, at least in my humble opinion! :)

Wed, 03/30/2016 - 16:30

Gone

Thank you Laura and Lynn. I feel I'm safe in cutting them. It's an 8 shaft. I know where to cut them. Was just wondering 'whether' to cut them. I thought maybe there was a downside to doing so.

Wed, 03/30/2016 - 18:03

Sara von Tresckow

1. When watching videos pay attention - there is the outer loop on Texsolv heddles - where you cut them. There is also a point of convergence where they fit around the shaft bar - in a movie it may look the same, but at at least one weaver has found out - it isn't.

I do it both ways. As Laura says, those with dobby looms 16 shafts or more, it is necessary to cut them apart to get your hands between them when threading. Also, when weaving they are not usually crowded on the shaft bars.

Now, with 4-8 shafts, I prefer to leave them uncut in bundles of 25-100. Why? When threading, if you push one heddle out of the way, the next one pops up like an automatic dispenser. When you thread with groups of four threads and push them aside, the next four pop up - great for straight draw projects. When changing the number of heddles on a shaft, it is also a bit easier to bundle them for moving.

I do notice on the 4-8 shaft projects with 24 epi or greater, the cut Texsolv heddles flop around and cross over one another in a way that uncut heddles do not do. If you are new to using them, try them out on a loom with 8 or fewer shafts for a few warps to see how it works. Once they are cut - you can't paste them back together.

I used to have one or two shafts on our demo Lilla uncut to show prospective buyers how it could work both ways. I recently changed them out to all uncut because they behave better on the small loom.

Wed, 03/30/2016 - 19:05

LynneAdair

Sarah thank you so much for the points you've just made.  Now i think i will take your advice and any new heddles i add or repace, leave them uncut on my 8-shaft Julia (especially as i'm only using 4 shafts for the foreseeable future, the other 4 shafts are stored away).  You're right that the cut heddles flip...and i can see how they would advance easily when threading if left uncut.  Thank you Sarah!

 

Wed, 03/30/2016 - 19:35

kerstinfroberg

When I first got my new texsolv heddles (must be nearly 30 years ago now), I left them uncut.

As I have been using them, I have also cut whenever I felt the "need" - say, a block (threading) completed, want 5 cm space until next coming back to that set of shafts. I expect all of them will be cut when I quit weaving (hopefully not for another 25+ years...)

In principle, I like them uncut, as it is so easy to find "the next". But, as that does not always work...

Wed, 03/30/2016 - 21:53

LynneAdair

Kerstin, thank you for the points you've made.  I guess as i am no where near the level of experience as you, or even the marjority of weavers here, i'll leave the options open for the present.  What an interesting discussion this has become!  In a weird way, i'm glad i toasted those heddles!  :)

 

Wed, 03/30/2016 - 23:51

ReedGuy

Like Kerstin I cut when the need arrives. I'm on an 8 shaft loom.

Thu, 03/31/2016 - 15:10

Gone

Just cut about 75 out of the 100 on each. I need about 60 on each.  That'll be enough for my current project.

Thanks for the tips -  all of you. You're a great and generous bunch.