I am in the process of rebuilding a renovated Weavemaster 4 Shaft table loom which has had a conversion to a counterbalance floor loom, and guess what? I have a few problems. I have been emailing Andrew Kieran and he has been a wealth of info. However, the setup for the lams has caused me problems. Andrew advised a setup as such: shaft - single central string - lam - string - pedel. the way i used the lam was to drill 7 holes ( as have 7 pedals) the central hole going up to the shaft and if needed directly down to pedal 4, or others. I had my doubts about this as there would be no anchor or pivot for the forces to be transfered.

So i changed the setup to this: shaft - two strings- lam - string - pedals.

this seems to work a lot better, however when i pull down shafts 1 + 3, 2 + 4 don't ascend evenly, so the upper shed would be off.

I wounder should i have weighed the shafts and balanced them for weight or just add balast to them?

Also is it advisable to create a block to stop the shafts from going u too far, thus forcing the other to move? And likewise for a lower stopper.

I liken this loom setup to a sash window, so wonder if a balast weight might be needed.

Please if anyone can help please...

When i push shafts 3 + 4 down shaft 3 glides partly back up, is this a matter of bad setup ( string lengths) or weight.

Comments

Sun, 05/10/2015 - 19:07

kerstinfroberg

Why is it a problem that the upper shed is "off"? The shuttle travels on the bottom of the shed - as long as the upper shed is out of the way of the shuttle it should not create a problem?

I don't think the weight of the "hardware" is of any importance (except, possibly, that all shed sticks should be sort-of-equal), because it is usually no problem at all having the warp ends divided un-evenly on the shafts.

...you *have* a warp in place, have you? Without a warp threaded and tensioned it is impossible to evaluate sheds on both counterbalance and countermarche looms, in my experience.

Sun, 05/10/2015 - 20:36

Leandros Komninos

No i have no warp, 50km of the stuff due to arrive on Monday or Tuesday, found a bargain 11.99quid for 100% cotton merc. And should have got a shuttle too in next few days.

Totally new to this, so thanks for telling me to get warp setup before final setting. Will do.

Any tip or tricks greatly appreciated.

Sun, 05/10/2015 - 20:36

Leandros Komninos

No i have no warp, 50km of the stuff due to arrive on Monday or Tuesday, found a bargain 11.99quid for 100% cotton merc. And should have got a shuttle too in next few days.

Totally new to this, so thanks for telling me to get warp setup before final setting. Will do.

Any tip or tricks greatly appreciated.

Mon, 05/11/2015 - 03:18

CelticCats

Usually, I have the loom completely dressed before tying up the harnesses to the treadles and have no problems with the sheds.  Maybe that might work for you as well.

 

=^.^=

Mon, 05/11/2015 - 16:50

Weaving Joy

Hello,

I have acquired a small  8-harness Pioneer table (10 inch weaving width) loom from an elderly member of our guild who is unable to provide me with any information about its features.  I went on the website and see that the company seems to no longer be in business.  I would like to gain some information from someone who has one of these looms and bought it new.  I already have and use a 4-harness Kessenich floor loom. 

Thanks,

 

Mon, 05/11/2015 - 18:53

kerstinfroberg

While not being able to relate to your question (actually, what *is* the question?), why would an 8-shaft Pioneer table loom's functionality differ from any 8-shaft loom?

Just curious...

Mon, 05/11/2015 - 20:17

Bonnie Inouye (not verified)

The Pioneer loom, from my memory of it in some workshops a few years ago, has a unique design. The concept is that you can thread the heddles and sley the reed and weave, but you can also change the threading while the warp is still on the loom because the heddle eyes are open in one place. In practice, this loom has serious limitations. You need to choose the warp size and weave structure carefully because it cannot handle a close sett. The heddles occupy more space than usual. And you need to be gentle with the loom and never, ever turn it over while warped. One time a workshop loom tipped in the car, and another time times the threads slipped out of the open eyes on the heddles. Now I ask weavers not to use this brand of loom in a round robin type of workshop, and I warn them about the problems if they want to stay at this loom and weave a bunch of samples. It was a good idea but the loom has problems. If your warp is just right and you are careful operating the loom and have a good place to use it where it never is bumped, then you could use it for sampling.

Bonnie Inouye

 

Mon, 05/11/2015 - 23:20

sandra.eberhar…

I have a Pioneer loom; I can scan the manual and send it to you.

Sun, 01/17/2016 - 19:34

LizF

Pioneer loom users seem to be few and far between, so I'm really glad to find you!  I have an 8 shaft Pioneer, which needed a lot of re-building, wiring, and general fixing up.  With every project, I discover another problem - crossed wires, uneven shafts which allow thread to jump to other heddles, loose weave and so on. Sigh.

The manual, such as it is, can be found at https://www.flickr.com/photos/lotsofyarn/with/2729118638/ The pages are out of order and the 1969 xeroxing is pretty messy. 

 

Sun, 01/17/2016 - 19:34

LizF

Pioneer loom users seem to be few and far between, so I'm really glad to find you!  I have an 8 shaft Pioneer, which needed a lot of re-building, wiring, and general fixing up.  With every project, I discover another problem - crossed wires, uneven shafts which allow thread to jump to other heddles, loose weave and so on. Sigh.

The manual, such as it is, can be found at https://www.flickr.com/photos/lotsofyarn/with/2729118638/ The pages are out of order and the 1969 xeroxing is pretty messy. 

 

Mon, 01/18/2016 - 01:44

sandra.eberhar…

Pioneer looms are still being made by the Northwest Loom co.

http://www.northwestlooms.com/

You can contact them for information and manuals.  My 27", 16 shaft table loom has the drawbacks of a floor loom and the drawbacks of a table loom; big, heavy, slow.  It is very pretty.

Sun, 08/07/2016 - 21:30

LizF

The company is still in business, still making looms.  Check out northwestlooms.com.  There's a 1969 manual at https://www.flickr.com/photos/lotsofyarn/albums/72157607452208515  I have an eight shaft Pioneer loom with stand, found on Craig's List, approximately thirty years old.  After much searching and scrambling, I identified it and put it back together.  There are some problems, some solved by adjusting wires, others by using lots of rubber bands on the open heddles.  Eventually, I'll get a more standard loom, but for now, I'm having fun.

Tue, 08/09/2016 - 17:31

Sharon Dalgleish

Can anyone tell me what the name of this loom is? Thank you.

     

Sun, 08/28/2016 - 18:27

Ed Chapman

I'm new to weaving (18 months) and have been working on a Kromski rigid heddle loom having lots of fun. So far I've made over three dozen tea towels from 8/2 cottolin and two wool worsted blankets- one big enough to cover a queen bed.

I'm ready for a table loom that meets the spouse's NSOWS rule- no sign of weaving stuff- when we entertain.

I like the Louet "Jane" model with 8 harnesses and 27" width. I also like the Ashford 24" mainly because it looks so easy use (thanks Curmudgeon on Youtube). 

I would be getting the stand in either case. Any actual user feedback?

Sun, 08/28/2016 - 23:01

SusanBH

What will you talk about with your guests?

Fri, 02/10/2017 - 16:59

Root Down Acres

I'm brand new to weaving - I recently bought a 15" Shacht Cricket loom - and am wanting to use up some yarn I have for practice before I delve into the good stuff. I was wondering if anyone had any general advice on using different yarns weights for the warp and weft yarns. Say for example, a DK warp and worsted weft? Or vice versa? Would the lighter weight yarn get swallowed up by the heavier yarn? Thanks for any advice or tips you can share!

Sat, 02/11/2017 - 16:43

Joanne Hall

One way to learn is to just get started.  Beware that beginners often think that they need to beat hard.  So,  just set the weft in at the same number per inch as your heddle reed.  So, if you use a size 10, then set in your weft at 10 per inch.  And you will be able to see both the warp and weft.

Joanne