I finally was able to get help moving my hand built countermarche loom upstairs and have it assembled, or almost assembled.  I basically traded my 60" loom for this 45-47" one because of space issues.  While this loom is extremely well built, it is quite different from the one that I am used to and, as a result, I have some questions.

First, on this loom, the warp beam is lower than the cloth beam and both of them are lower than the beams on my previous looms.  I have done a search for images of countermarche looms and cant find any that have the warp beam lower than the cloth beam.  Could it possibly be assembled incorrectly?  I labeled all the connections when I went to pick it up, but I have a feeling that the woman who sold it didnt really know very much - as evidenced by the apron rod on the warp beam.  It is about an inch wider than the space between the loom uprights and there is no way to wind the warp:

There is more room at the cloth beam because the uprights holding the cloth beam are not as wide as the loom frame.  And the treadles were attached with the texsolv anchor pegs on the top rather than underneath. 

There arent any holes in the upper jacks to insert locking pins.  The jacks are much smaller than what I am used to, so I dont know if I can have holes drilled.  Because of their shape, I am able to put wood slats under them and hold them up.  I guess I can just do that, right?  I didnt think to take a photo, so will add that later.

And, at the back of the loom, above and below the back beam bracket, there are angled pegs:

The upper peg (second photo of the peg) also has a finger shaped groove below it.  Am I missing an integral part of the loom?  If not, does anyone have an idea what those pegs are for?  A raddle?  A warping board attachment?

I appreciate any comments that will help with these issues.  I still have to attempt to tie everything up.  It has been a while since I assembled a countermarche loom, so I am going to have to find my copy of Joanne Hall's book.

Gail

 

Comments

Sat, 05/04/2013 - 13:56

SallyE (not verified)

I don't think the height of these beams matter much.   The real issue is the height of the back beam and breast beams since the warp goes over the back beam, through the shafts and reed, and then over and under the the breast beam on it's way to the cloth beam.

The length of that rod is an issue of course.   You do have to either replace it or cut it off with a hack saw. . . .

 

Sat, 05/04/2013 - 15:36

ReedGuy

Step back from the loom and take some wide shots. Close up shots like this are like starring as a board and not seeing the loom. I like to see what's going on. :)

Sat, 05/04/2013 - 15:52

gailc

I will try to stand  back as far as possible, ReedGuy.  Problem is there is not much space in the room.

Sat, 05/04/2013 - 15:55

gailc

Here is a photo that was sent to me when I inquired about it:

Sat, 05/04/2013 - 17:48

Joanne Hall

Hi Gail,

Put a simple warp on it, fixing what needs fixing as you warp it.  Then weave and see how the loom works.  And maybe some of your questions will be answered as you weave. Report back here if you think you need help or want to comment on it.  As long as the frame is strong and big, you can probably solve any problems which come up.

Joanne

Sat, 05/04/2013 - 18:58

ReedGuy

Gail, try to get 500-700 pixels wide photos, it'll only take about 60 kb of memory to store it. It looks to me that the dowels are stops for raising and lowering the back cross beam. Is there a slot for a bolt on the frame or the beam blocks, so they adjust up and down? As long as the back beam is slightly above the breast beam hieght, I don't know what the advantage of that would be. No idea why the cloth tie-on rod is so long unless it's for the warp roller instead. Is it too long for back there to? Can't see the top in that photo, but looks to me that loom should weave cloth. Just need to figure out the specifics and quirks of it. ;)

Do you have a set of blocks to hold the shaft bars even? Or pins for the ends of the bottom shaft bars, goes into a hole on the ends of the shaft bars. Once you put your heddles on, those holes on the ends of the bars, top and bottom, can hold a cord, but can be looped as well, so the heddles don't slip off. On a narrow warp, just pull a bunch of heddles on each shaft to the sides to balance the shafts when you weave.

Like Joanne says, weave on the thing and see what happens. :)

Sun, 05/19/2013 - 21:25

gailc

I dont have either the shaft holders or those big pins for the ends of the shaft bars.  I can get my handyman friend to make the wooden shaft holders, but where does one get those big safety pin like things for the ends of the shaft bars?

I am even more convinced now that the woman who sold me the loom had never actually woven on it - as I am painstakingly untangling the texsolv heddles ( because I dont have those end pins), I found a spool of the heddles that were apparently in the process of being put on the loom.  If she never put on all the heddles, she never actually used it.  I never saw a spool of texsolv heddles before.  I wonder/hope if they are the same size as the brand new packs of heddles that I bought for the loom I sold to get this one.

Sun, 05/19/2013 - 21:43

crofter

hi if you look on reed guy i think it explains how to make them ie large diper pins i used 2mm plus brass bar the length depends on your loom size 

good luck 

crofter

Sun, 05/19/2013 - 21:54

ReedGuy

Well, for me it was just a custom build. I had some 1/8" brass rod and just bent it to shape using a vise and a piece of round steel as a former to make the curves. Hardware stores sell brass rod in 3 or 4 foot lengths. I also used some honing compound and felt wheel to buff the brass smooth where I had some scratches as well as the ends when cut to take the edges off.

The reason I have honing compound is to sharpen and put a glass finish on wood working chisels, but comes in handy to polish these little custom jobs.

 

 

Mon, 05/20/2013 - 03:26

sandra.eberhar…

I find pipe cleaners, often sold as craft items, very usefull in handling all kinds of heddles.

 

Wed, 05/22/2013 - 00:07

sandra.eberhar…

Does it have any marks or labels on it?  It looks a lot like my Lervad.

Wed, 05/22/2013 - 10:52

gailc

No, this loom was hand built by a local shop teacher years ago.  I dont know how long the previous owner had it, but I doubt that she ever used it.  There are some water marks indicating that it had been wet at some point.  The entire loom frame is fine, but I found out when I went to weave that the beater bottom is racked.  My woodworker took it yesterday to make a new one for me.  There was at least an inch difference between the right and left side of the beater when it hit the front beam (as a test, not how I usually weave).  I was so disppointed that I have to wait to try the loom.  First, he will have to find the wood, then make the new beater.

Wed, 05/22/2013 - 12:12

ReedGuy

Gail,the wood appears to be maple, so that isn't hard to source. He will have to be able to search the stacks for straight grain for the length of the piece. Some places don't allow rifling through their stacks. Some are more accomodating. This will have to be select or prime grade for starters and hope the grain does not climb or run out before the first 66-72 inches, or nearly so. Because you have the thickness of the timbers in the castle and frame, the width of the uprights and some holding wood beyond the uprights to account for. The piece will have to be acclimated to the conditions it will be put (in your house) before it can be worked. When I work on something like this I bring the wood into my heated shop for a few days. I do this stuff in winter mostly. Sometimes a nice looking board out in the barn will later check or cup, so you don't want that to happen after it's worked.

Wed, 05/22/2013 - 15:07

kerstinfroberg

If it is built in the Scandinavian tradition, there should be several positions in which to hand the beater. It is quite possible to hand it from different positions, if that gives a straight beat.

Here are a couple of pics of an old loom - modern looms may have different-looking "positions". Also, on modern Glimåkras the "cradle" for hanging the beater can itself be adjusted backwards and forwards, it is just screwed on. Perhaps yours have something similar?

Wed, 05/22/2013 - 15:14

kerstinfroberg

the ends of shafts - here is the best trick I have ever learnt (as usual: thank you, Barbro!). Can be used for every kind of "loom stick" that has holes in both ends - shaft bars, lease sticks, apron rods... Also, the pipe cleaners (or any kind of dowel/stick thin enought) can be used instead of the "safety pin".