When I first got my loom, a b40 in the spring I wrote to my friend that has made tons of rugs and she told me I could not weave rugs on a Macomber. Well by the time she said that I had finished 6 rugs and was working on more so I knew I could do rugs.

 Now a small issue with the rugs has came up and I thought I would ask and see if anyone else has had the problem and how you fixed it.

When I get 3 rugs on thetake up beam they start to hit the bottom of the front heddle. So I take them off and re tie to the front. Now this is fine and it works but I have sectionaly warped the loom and have lots of warp left and would rather not do it this way.

Can that beam (the front one) be moved down? What about moving the heddles to the back slots? I just have 4 and there is room for 10. I read that the jacks are different so I don't know if that would work or if it is even something I could do.

Anyone weaving rugs on a Macomber that has solved this problem?

 Thanks

Marlene in Oregon

(we got some rain yesterday)

Comments

Mon, 09/26/2011 - 16:15

weaversouth (not verified)

I've been doing rugs forever on my Macomber.  No comments about your problem...have never run across it, but just wanted to express my astonishment.  The Mac is a heavy loom and very strong.  I never rack up more than three rugs per warp, tho, depending on the size of the rugs.  Of late, I've been doing smaller rugs, of rug-wool, which often end up being draped over furniture rather than put on the floor.  On the other hand, I cavelierly throw my own right down there LOL  guess it's a case of over-familiarity.  Will keep an eye on this thread, tho, since I'd like to know if somebody comes up with a solution.  I might encounter the prob myself at some point.

Surely, tho, you means "shafts" not "heddles?"

Mon, 09/26/2011 - 19:37

Michael White

You must be making lots of rugs. I don't see any reason why you could not move the four heddle frames to the back of the loom. You would have to move the jacks and the lamms. But it would work. If you are just going to make rugs on this loom you could build a warping deck to put cones on. Then you would never have to warp the loom again. Just tie on new cones.

Michael

Tue, 09/27/2011 - 00:14

marlenedg (not verified)

Thanks for your suggestions. I made a tension block and sectionaly warping is a breeze now so that is solved. I am going to look at maybe moving things back. When I run out of warp and when Ihave the extra time. Could be a while.

Thanks again.

Marlene

Mon, 10/24/2011 - 22:05

mrdubyah (not verified)

I think the best thing to do is to cut the rugs off when the cloth beam is full.  One way to save on retying is to weave an inch or so of tabby with waste yarn at the end of your project.  Put a dowel or metal rod in as the last pick of the tabby.  Then, cut the project off, leaving the tabby with the dowel through it on the loom.  You can then use a bit of cord to tie the dowel directly to your apron rod.  The tabby will be caught between the dowel and the apron rod and will hold the warp evenly without the bother of tying on every time!

Tue, 10/25/2011 - 23:08

andsewon (not verified)

What a great idea! Thanks for posting. Connie
Tue, 10/25/2011 - 23:24

mneligh

I also cut my rugs off after 1 or 2.  I cannot resist the impulse to look at them.  I put twining at the beginning and end, bracketing about 4 tabby rows on each end, before beginning the rug proper.  I have only once been truly worried about buildup on the cloth beam, on a rag rug at 5 epi with a 15 epi double-weave float.  (The finer fabric was sometimes on one face, sometimes the other of the rag plane.)  It ended up about as thick as a karate mat, about 7' long. 

The dowel & tabby sound like an excellent idea.

Wed, 11/02/2011 - 14:28

suzyhok (not verified)

I agree with mneligh... I am just too anxious to see what the rug/wallhanging looks like not to cut each one piece off the loom when they are finished.  I find that the lost warp is minimal and certainly worth appeasing my desire to see the finished piece as soon as it is woven... and then I can sit in front of the TV or the radio or a fine painting and mindlessly twist and tie the fringes.

Wed, 11/02/2011 - 14:38

mneligh

Yep -- that is where/how I finish the fringes, as well as spin the yarn to begin with.  You forgot the music & audiobooks, though.

I'm incapable of sitting still without something to do with my hands.

Thu, 11/03/2011 - 03:46

SDSue (not verified)

Hi all, I just read a blog from Pendleton Woolen Mills about their "Woolly Worms" the edges of the blankets that are actually scrap. I am assuming since the Macomber is such a workhorse that even my little 24"CP will be able to handle making a small wool blanket with these "worms". Has anyone tried this before? 

Sun, 11/06/2011 - 02:33

TinaHilton (not verified)

I can't weave very tightly with rags on my CP, but they are stiffer than the worms so maybe you'll have better luck.  Even thick cotton yarn doesn't weave in nearly so snugly as on my big looms.  I don't consider it a problem for me, though, since I can just use my big loom when I want a tighter weave.

Sun, 11/06/2011 - 11:44

patchworkfibers (not verified)

My CP is pretty light for weaving anything that requires a heavy beat. I've had luck using wool warp and then tightening up everything by washing in hot or warm water after weaving. Basically, just felting the weaving to get the density you want.

Sun, 11/06/2011 - 14:21

Sara von Tresckow

On any rug loom, the usual procedure is to put on very long warps and cut off when the cloth beam fills.

There are various methods for securing the cut ends.