I thought I knew, but can't seem to translate which will be dominant so I guess I'm also asking the question what is the difference?  I am working with 4 shafts and have been looking at drafts trying to determine which pattern I will use for my shawl for Halloweave. I need to overdye some existing wool that I "inherited". It isn't a good color for a shawl (wink & grin) and since I am a novice dyer, maybe I will only need to dye the weft or the warp depending ...

Appreciate any thoughts on the subject.

Respectfully,

Leigh

 

Comments

Mon, 09/26/2011 - 06:31

laurafry

Do you have a draft in mind?  Warp or weft dominance is in the density of the warp - if the warp is very closely set it will be warp emphasis or warp faced (if it completely covers the weft).  If the warp is very loosely set the weft will pack in very closely and be weft faced if the weft completely covers the warp.

For a shawl I would rather go with something more 'balanced' - i.e. about the same number of warp epi and weft ppi.  This will give better drape than a cloth that is warp or weft faced, although a cloth that is slightly higher in epi than ppi would work too.  

But twills, for example, are generally set to be 'balanced' so that you get the ideal 45 degree angle of the twill line....

cheers,

Laura

Mon, 09/26/2011 - 14:56

leighv (not verified)

Thank you Laura, that is what I was thinking, that one covers the other. I wasn't sure how that happened, but now it makes sense! Make one less dense. Actually, it is going to be a combination of both sett and weft placement the more I think about it. Okay, I think I got it!

And I think you are right about using a balanced weave for a shawl. I was thinking of a Bumberet out of John Hargroves' "A Weavers Draft Book" from 1792 (that is so COOL! Weaving a pattern from 1792!). I think that is pretty balanced, ... right? But then again maybe I'd be safer with a plain weave. Safe doesn't get me moving forward! I am such a whimpy chicken! Pattern it is!!

Guess I have more dyeing in my future.

Respectfully and with thanks,

Leigh

Mon, 09/26/2011 - 15:12

kerstinfroberg

And then there is "warp faced twill" (for example), which generally is warp faced on the side the weaver looks at when weaving ("right side") - which means it is weft face on the other side... like this:

(Which side to call the "right" is in the eye of the weaver - if using a jack loom I would choose the bottom tie-up every time...)

Mon, 09/26/2011 - 16:54

laurafry

I agree - I always lift the fewest number of shafts/have the majority of the ends on the bottom of the shed.  :)

cheers,

Laura

Mon, 09/26/2011 - 18:12

leighv (not verified)

I have a counterbalance so one up means one down. Would love to have a jack too, though I love love love the shed in my CB! Just not when doing 3 up and 1 down (can be done, just havent figured out how yet.)

Respectfully,

Leigh

Mon, 09/26/2011 - 19:12

laurafry

Again, I'd rather have 3 down, one up on a counter balanced loom.  The more threads on the bottom of the shed, the less likely the shuttle is to nose-dive.  :)  You just need to tie 3 shafts to each treadle. e.g. 1+2+3 for one treadle, 2+3+4 to the next, 1+3+4 to the thrid, and 1+2+4 to the last.  

cheers,

Laura

Tue, 09/27/2011 - 13:30

kerstinfroberg

I am from Sweden. Nobody has told us that "unbalanced" sheds can't be used on CB looms, so we do it all the time... and we are so un-observant that we don't even notice a problem with it. (In other words: just do it - it will work)

Tue, 09/27/2011 - 17:20

leighv (not verified)

Thank you both!

Laura, thanks for the tie-up info. Sounds simple enough and easier on my knees!

Kerstin, you're right! I think it is time to just do it!

Watch out weaving world! Here I come!!