Can anyone help me figure out how to balance the drafts in the book The Handweaver's Pattern Directory? I am getting ready to make 10 placemats from the Undulating Twill Point Draft, 2/2, on page 199. I'm using the middle pattern - they call it tan and mauve but it looks more like rust and grey in the book. I am planning to use 3/2 perle cotton, with about 3/4 inch of 10/2 cotton at each end to help me hem the placemats in lieu of fringe. 

I understand that there are 38 dents shown, and that I will have to repeat the pattern a few times to get my required width. I think I can figure out that part. I also understand that for the purposes of reading and understanding the threading, I should start from the right (even though I will probably thread from the back of my loom, starting at the other end, since I warp front to back). What I am confused about is exactly how to "balance" this draft on the left side of the placemats so that I won't cut off the pattern in midstream. I don't think I am going to do separates selvedges -- I'll just take the pattern all the way across. But if I end on shaft 1,2,3 as shown, am I going to have a problem? Can anyone explain how to "balance".....?

I do think I "get" that for each repeat of this draft, when I end with 1,2,3 and then start over at the beginning (at right on the page), with 4,3,2,1, there will be a "point". But the directions started the pattern in the middle of the point anyway. Is there a chance that I don't need to do anything at all, other than repeat this entire pattern X amount of times, and maybe the book has already allowed for balance? 

As you can see I'm not quite "there" yet with straying away from a pattern in Handwoven. I have done some pointed twills from there which worked out fine, but the authors had already done some of the math and figuring. Thanks for any help!

Cindy in MD

 

 

 

 

 

Comments

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 19:28

ReedGuy

Often times where you start and end a draft will depend on how neet the selvedges will be when woven. In the middle photo, it shows the edges to alternate between warp and weft thread every couple of shots, which is better than having 5 shots miss the outter 2 ends when 7 shots of weft are thrown. It a little easier to see with software sometimes. So, you may actually have a few leading threads of warp that make your selvedges neet, but not neccessarily in the middle of a point or diamond. You would repeat this for the far side when threading, but often mirrored-image style. As a for instance, if the draft threading sloped left from foremost shaft to the back shaft at the right hand edge, it would slope the other way on the left edge. You don't want long floats of warp or weft on the edges so much. In the photo, if the threading began one warp end to the left you would have a 4 weft float on the edge every 12 shots.

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 19:41

clgy (not verified)

Thanks, ReedGuy. :) I am reading and re-reading what you have written, but I'm still not clear. I am definitely using floating selvedges, so I'm not as worried about the floats as the idea that I might warp 6 yards and then realize that I should have altered this draft by adding some appropriate ends when threading.

I'm trying to figure out if I *can* use the 38 ends shown as they are, repeated of course -- so maybe 152 ends or 190 ends or 228 ends, depending on the sett and width of the mats.............or whether I need to figure out a few more ends that will finish out the pattern, balancing it on the left side. 

Also ---- with 3/2 perle cotton, is 1 warp end enough for floating selvedges, or should they be doubled? Thanks.

Cindy

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 20:21

ReedGuy

What will the sett be with that yarn your using? That's important to know and sampling will be required if you don't. I think if you wanted to finish out the points by adding a few ends on the edge, that's up to you. I would if it made the edges of the cloth look the same. Knowing the proper sett will help you plan how many repeates to get the width. I don't know if your asking us for the sett, but I have not used that weight of cotton or that draft.

 

On floating selvedges, I have never used them. But, it seems to me at least two ends would be needed for strength.

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 20:23

clgy (not verified)

I have done plain weave with 3/2 at 10 and 12. For twill I believe it will be 12-16. I have an 8 dent reed so I could thread 2 per dent for a sett of 16. 

That would work out nicely, because 6 repeats of the pattern of 38 is 228.........228/16 is 14.25, which is not a bad width for a placemat before shrinkage. 

 

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 20:31

ReedGuy

Keep in mind if the sett pulls in the pattern, then it is too high and the opposite if its stretched.

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 20:33

clgy (not verified)

Great - thanks. I am learning these little things as I go, and that's helpful. I've only had my floor loom for about a year and a half. :)

Cindy

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 22:14

Yvonne K

The 38 threads make 1 pattern unit. Just repeat this pattern as many times as you like. To balance on the other side, you will need to add one more thread on shaft four.
Fri, 05/03/2013 - 22:51

sandra.eberhar…

I agree with Yvonne.  You can repeat the entire pattern as is the entire width of the piece, and need only one extra thread on #4 to finish and balance the design.  Some of the more complex twill patterns in this book require some carefull work to avoid an asymetrical pattern, but this is pretty straightforward.  I double my floating selvedges, and yes they will prevent  the selvedge problems that Reed Guy was talking about.

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 22:59

ReedGuy

Yes, it appears you only need one more end as Yvonne mentioned. To be clear, it's on the opposite selvedge after you have done the regular 38 end repeat for the full width. The reason the repeat omits it is that you would end up with two threads side by side on the end of the repeat, where you only want one to make a 'V'.

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 23:18

clgy (not verified)

Perfect - thanks a million to Yvonne K, bigwhitesofadog, and ReedGuy. I deeply appreciate your quick replies, and I completely understand now, at least for this pattern. :) I guess I was confused, thinking I had to add something to every repeat, when all I need to do is repeat 6 times, and add the last thread to the end on the left side of the loom. 38 x 6 + 1 = 229 threads, then, right? And, 39 / 16 sett = about 14.3125 width, right?I haven't decided on a length yet but I'm thinking 19 or 20, finished, not including the hem allowance...so maybe 22? I know they shrink....

I will also add 2 floating selvedge threads on each side. I normally tie them on front, put them through the next dent on each side, and weight them over the back beam. Am I correct to think that both of them will go in the same dent with each other?

I think I'm good to go for this one. My mom's birthday is June 14 - wish me luck! Next time, when I have more time, I will try to figure out how to do a more traditional (plain weave? or basket weave) selvedge, but for this project I think it will be fine to carry the pattern all the way across as long as  I add that one extra thread on shaft 4.  

Thanks - you're all great. I'll send photos. In the meantime, here's a photo of the scarf I just took off my loom - it's just a simple 2/2 twill, but I designed the stripes with the Fibonacci sequence, which was fun. I tend to be too symmetrical with everything, and this was an organized way to create something a little more assymetrical!  

Thanks,

Cindy

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 23:24

ReedGuy

I would actually prefer a basket weave edge and omit a floating selvedge. that would have the same take up as the twill. But carry on as you are, it will be practice and the basketweave can be another project. :) Laura Fry talks of this in her blog. Do a forum search for the link. I was going to make mention earlier, but it slipped my mind. I actually did type about it in this thread, but thought I was rambling on beyond the question. So I edited my post before submitting. I have used it on twill scarves.

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 23:28

clgy (not verified)

I agree that a basket weave would look better, and I have read that it's best to use it in lieu of plain weave for twill. I have not totally figured out how to use a basket weave or plain weave tie up and treadling in conjunction with threading the two sides correctly to get the selvedge. I know it's simple but I think it's going to take a few more projects for everything to click. I want to find some time to really practice with filling in drawdowns; I think that will help. I have considered making the very long sampler type twill scarf in Weaver's Craft, just to help me figure it all out. I really love the way you can get more than one pattern out of the same threading by changing the tie ups or treadling or both. It's like magic! :) 

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 23:36

ReedGuy

229 ends/16 epi is 14.3125 inches, yes

Allow a few inches for take-up and shrinkage, say 20 %, added to the length and width. It's going to tighten up or 'full' when washed and dried. Note that percentage is not from experience with your yarn and twill, but ball park guess only. Can't recall if you allowed for movement in width (including draw-in) already without reading through your posts. :)

 

Nice looking scarf Cindy. :)

Sat, 05/04/2013 - 01:04

sandra.eberhar…

I thing floating selvedges vs basket weave selvedge is one of personal preferences.  I prefter the floaters because I can tension them to get a nice clean edge without any draw in.  Many very excellent weavers prever the basket weave.  I warp my floaters with the rest of the warp, and tension them seperately when they start to get slack (they don't take up at the same rate as the rest of the warp).  I just don't like the look of the basket selvedge, I prefer the look of having the pattern to the edge.  I use basket weave for hems, and I have read some schools of thought do not do that; they keep weaving pattern into the hem in finer thread, and I think I will try that.

Sat, 05/04/2013 - 09:58

ReedGuy

It's possibly a preference thing, but I think it's more so about the takeup. I don't state that to make an arguement. At least from my readings of others, takeup is always mentioned and not so much about preference. Another weaver from Denmark I recall now is also using basketweave with her scarves and is the one that actually inspired me to try it. She has followed Laura's blog.

I begin and end with the regular pattern as well. It seems, if it's going to be hemmed it doesn't make much difference when the sewing needle binds the rolled piece of fabric. On a wool blanket I do a blanket stitch that leaves a thread on the ends bound by loops. This I usually do by hand because 2-ply (1/8") wool is a bit heavy for a sewing machine. I'm still learning to weave (and sew). Don't anyone take me to be an expert. But it just seems that things will come to you as you learn hands on and read the words of others.

Sat, 05/04/2013 - 19:15

clgy (not verified)

Bigwhitesofadog - I had not thought of using the 10/2 at each hemming end as part of the pattern. I like that idea, instead of switching to tabby, because the sett is for twill, so maybe less variation between width of hem area and the rest of the placemat? I will try it. I am not sure whether to use the 10/2 for 3/4 inch or one whole inch. I plan to serge the ends and then either machine stitch or hand stitch. 

and ReedGuy....when you mention basket weave, do you mean on the ends, where the hemming will be, or along the sides, as a selvedge, or both? One of these days I will try a runner with twill in the middle and basket weave on all four sides. 

Just returned from the Maryland Sheep and Wool festival. I used restraint - did not buy a loom, did not buy a sheep, but did buy about 5 mill end cones! All rayon. I must confess --- I'm more enamored by synthetics than wool for some reason....although alpaca is quite nice! 

Thanks again to everyone!

Cindy

 

Sat, 05/04/2013 - 22:13

sandra.eberhar…

Basket weave works best for hems and selvedges because tabby takes up differently than twill (problems in selvedges) and is wider than twill (problems in hems).  Even if you make the hems of much finer thread (sewing thread) a tabby hem will be wider than the twill body.  I think part of the basket selvedge vs. floaters is the type of fabric.  In fancy, fine silk and wool scarves or shawls, I think a selvedge would be unsightly.   In a blanket, not.

Sat, 05/11/2013 - 12:06

clgy (not verified)

I now have my loom dressed and have begun sampling. Adding 1 more thread to the left side in shaft 4 worked perfectly. This is a 6x repeat of 38 threads, for 228, plus the one extra, for 229. Unfortunately I have decided that this width will be too narrow for placemats after shrinkage, so I would like to add 1 more repeat of the pattern (I think?), on the right, since the pattern is already balanced on the left. (sett 16, 2 per dent in 8 dent reed). It's centered now ---------if I simply add 38 more to the right side (about 2+ inches), will it be a huge deal to be off center by 2 inches? I know it would be more correct to figure out how to continue the pattern for an inch or so on each side, but I'm not sure I'm confident enough to do that yet. Also --- is there any reason I cannot advance the warp at this point so that most of it is on the front beam, tie on my extra at the back, thread through reed only, and rebeam...then take out of reed, thread heddles, back in reed, and tie on at front with same tension? I realize I would have to unweave what I have already done in order to get good tension with the new threads being tied on. Thanks for any suggestions. I could continue, and just make small placemats, but I think I would be happier with them a bit wider.

Cindy

 

 

 

Sat, 05/11/2013 - 16:14

ReedGuy

If you don't balance the warp some way with the additional ends then one side of the shed is going to sag lower, while the other side is higher. Probably end up getting skips. I know how I would do it, depending on if it's a short warp or not and other variables.