I am working on my first project (although I did weave the sample in Deborah Chandler's Learn to Weave book).   I bought some 8/2 Cottolin to make kitchen towels and finished warping the loom using an 18 dent reed that came with my loom.  I thought it would be simpler to use than the 8 or 10 dent reeds recommended in the pattern.   HOWEVER, although the yarn seemed to stick together when I was warping the loom I could not have imagined how much the yarn tangles - I warped front to back (464 ends) and it looks like I'm going to have to separate each thread individually.  Is there a better way to do this/treat the yarn or is this the result of my inexperience / ignorance?  I am staying calm - I am so happy to have a loom - but I can't imagine how I am going to tie onto the back beam without tangles.

I would appreciate any advice.  Thx.

Comments

Fri, 06/19/2015 - 13:43

Joanne Hall

I have not had a problem with cottolin from Sweden, so it may just be the thread you are using.  So, don't get discouraged.  However, use the 10 dent reed, with two threads per dent if you plan to weave plain weave.  If you plan to weave something with floats, twill or other pattern weaves, then sley a little closer, the 8 dent with three per dent is better.

For this warp, hold or weight the warp very tightly when you beam it.

Joanne

Fri, 06/19/2015 - 13:59

Sue in VT

.   I've been weaving only two years now and work with 8/2 and Cottolin a lot.  Joanne's advice on reed size is spot on.  Since you have Chandler's book, re read the section on warping carefully.  I kept it open and re read every paragraph as I proceeded.  Her instructions seemed to speak to every question I had, including how to beam without tangling, and under pressure (even if you beam alone, as I do).  Keep at it.  The help I received from fellow weavers right here at Weavolution has kept me going and trying new things.

Mon, 06/22/2015 - 23:29

GiaG

Thanks for the input.  I finally straightened out the tangles this weekend. It was sooo bad my boyfriend asked tongue-in-cheek if the loom was ever going to work again.

I did fine w/the warping board - the problems started when I started threading the heddles and the yarn started bunching up in the reed and on the back of the heddles.  I'll try the 10 dent reed w/my next project.

Also, just wondering how much of a time saver sectional beams are in the warping process and if they are worth the investment.  I have a feeling using a sectional beam and warping from back to front would have been a lot easier.

Thanks again!

Tue, 06/23/2015 - 09:09

Artistry

I have done all 3 styles and while the sectional has certain advantages for long warps , all three methods are good. I warp from back to front now. The best thing is to pick a method and stick with it for awhile, read as much as you can about the method and practice it. It will get easier. If you're still having problems, well, maybe it's time to change methods.

I'm a little confused about how you warped your loom? Usually when I warped from front to back, I roughed sleyed the reed ( loop in every other dent) then pushed the heddles to each side and passed the warp through the middle and looped the ends onto the back beam warping rod. Then beamed under tension, transferred the cross, then sleyed  the heddles, then sleyed  the reed, then tied on the front beam. There are details left out but that's the gist. It seems to me that you threaded the heddles before you beamed, that would create a mess, in my way of thinking.

so I would suggest getting a good beginning book, a lot of people like The Big Book of Weaving, and that will help you a lot!

don't let this experience frustrate you too much, it's how we all learn! I could tell you so many stories, lol! Happy Weaving!

Cathie

 

Thu, 06/25/2015 - 23:36

GiaG

Hi Cathie =

I warp from front to back.  My cotollin is a lot stickier than the wool yarn.  But I finally got it straightened out and am happily weaving.  I do have a few mistakes but that's OK since it's my first real project.  

Thu, 06/25/2015 - 23:53

GiaG

I accidentally posted the previous message before finishing writing my message when I tried to post a picture of my weaving which I haven't been able to do for awhile maybe because I'm using a tablet.

I have the Learn to Weave book and I also watched the Elizabeth Wagner videos on youtube which really helped.  I will have to do more research as I've never heard of rough sleying the reed.  I agree I need to do more reading and appreciate the encouragement.  Now if I could just post pictures on this site,

Thanks!

Fri, 06/26/2015 - 00:03

sally orgren

I have woven with at least 4 different kinds of cottolin, and yes, the Swedish cottolin has a smoother finish or slightly tighter twist, or maybe is composed of longer fibers. It doesn't seem to "shed" as much as two of the others i have used, or break as easily.

I am using 8/2 sett at 24 epi, 2 per dent in an 12 dent reed.

How is your warp sleyed in your 18 dent reed?

Fri, 06/26/2015 - 03:03

GiaG

I tried to sleying it 1 1 1 2 but some of it was at night and it was bunching in the reed.

I made some mistakes but I am having fun. I'm attaching a picture - I finally figured that out.

Either I overworked the cottolin or it is a little nubby.

Here's my first project : >  I know it could use improvement but it's fun.

 

 

Fri, 06/26/2015 - 03:25

GiaG

Better picture / more weaving.  I need to keep track of my rows.

 

 

Fri, 06/26/2015 - 14:04

Artistry

It's beautiful GiaG, well worth preserving all those tangles! Well done!

Cathie

Fri, 06/26/2015 - 14:20

ReedGuy

I recently mixed cottolin with regular cotton 8/2 as alternate pairs and never behaved any different that I could see. I rough sleighed through the reed. This is used as a raddle as in Sweden (Big Book of Weaving), beamed onto a supplemental with flanges. Then threaded the heddles, then the reed. I can't imagine going through heddles before beaming, it would be pulling on your harnass like a dog being pulled by it's owner while out for a stroll. Whoa I say, whoa! ;)

Sun, 06/28/2015 - 15:07

Sue in VT

Your first piece of weaving is just lovely!  I know what you mean about keeping track of the rows.  I never leave the loom unless it's a natural stopping point.  I write the order from the draft onto a sticky note, and if there are repeats, I use tally marks Too.

Tue, 06/30/2015 - 18:27

GiaG

So.....I got bored with the pattern I was using and noticed a different pattern using the same threading in one of my books - so I followed the new threading not noticing that I didn't change the tie up to the new pattern.  The pattern was acceptable but I couldn't understand why it didn't look like the one I  the book - until I realized that I hadn't changed the tie up - LOL - seriously  :  -- )

I also ordered the Big Book of Weaving.  Thx to all for sharing your knowledge.  I'm attaching a pic  of "my new pattern."  It's rather washed out - maybe it will be less pale after it shrinks or with a different combination of yarns..  I do wash cottolin in hot water?

Tue, 06/30/2015 - 18:34

GiaG

I meant to say I followed the new treadling - not new threading..

Tue, 06/30/2015 - 19:52

laurafry

I *wet finish* in hot, but after that I wash in warm...

 

cheers

Laura

Wed, 07/01/2015 - 00:18

GiaG

Do you put it in the dryer?  

I finished and hemmed the towels.  Yeah!  Ican see variations in the hue of the towel between obvious areas of loose and the tighter weave.  I guess the learning process is ongoing.

The instructions said to weave 3/4 inch of white or natural sewing thread to eliminate bulk at the hem.  It didn't say whether to leave that edge showing or to fold it at the edge of the weaving.  Is there a preferred way?  I left an edge on the blue one but not on the green.  They haen't been washed yet and are wrinkled.  The green is the mistake pattern.  

You all must be awesome if you do this for a living - these were a lot of work!

Wed, 07/01/2015 - 00:50

Artistry

GiaG,  usually if you've done the hem in white and the body of the towel is a different color, I think, it looks best rolled under.

the areas , which you've picked up on, that are loose or tighter than others are beaten unevenly. So strive to keep your beat even. It just takes practice:)

you've done a nice job on your very first project, enjoy using your towels !

the very best move now is to get another project on your loom right away, so you can practice all that you've learned! 

Congrats and welcome to weaving!

Cathie

Sun, 07/26/2015 - 01:55

ken

I had the same problem initially with warping front to back. Try warping back to front using a threading lease on one end and a group lease on the other. I highly recommend Peggy Osterkamps method for this. It keeps the threads under tension so there's no twisting and tangling and makes the warping process much more enjoyable. Because I weave with one hand, this has been the only method that has worked for me. she also has a blog "weaving should be fun" which could be very helpful to you.

Happy Weaving!

Tue, 08/04/2015 - 00:54

GiaG

Thank you both.

I will try the back to front method.  There is just so much that I want to learn in a hurry!  Because I'm not real close to any weaving schools I keep buying books and pour over the pictures of gorgeous weaves and I want to try all of them - RIGHT NOW!  And, of course I don't have an inventory of yarn to make anything I want and there are very often simple instructions that I don't completely understand.  I just have to be patient and slow down.  Has anyone else found weaving to be addictive or is it just me?  

 

 

 

Tue, 08/04/2015 - 17:22

margaret309 (not verified)

Your towels are beautiful.  Be sure and keep your first one.  Don't give it away because you'll want to look back on it years from now.  Also, our guild has everyone bring their first weaving once a year for "show and tell".  Lots of fun.  Yes it is addictive, but a great addiction.  Good luck.