I want to weave some fabric for a casual top, hopefully using up some of my stash - I seem to have alot of 8/2 cotton and 10/2 mercerized cotton. So far I've uncovered the following ideas, but am unsure of how well the following will drape:

1. 10/2 mercerized cotton, EPI 20. A nice top on the back cover of Handwoven Design Collection 17, "Jackets and Pullovers".

2. 5/2 mercerized cotton, EPI 20, on page 17 of Handwoven Design Collection 20, "Weekend Weaving Projects". It looks nice in the photo - but wouldn't this be like wearing a heavy placemat?

3. 8/2 cotton. In "A Handwoven Treasury", page 126, there is a shirt made of 22/2 cottolin, EPI 20. 8/2 cotton seems the same weight. Would it be a good substitute for the cottolin? Sett the same?

4. 8/2 cotton, and 10/2 cotton, EPI 20. In "A Handweaver's Notebook" by Sharon Alderman, page 70, there is a nice fabric with those yarns as warp, and the weft as singles silk noil @4200 yd/lb. (I hate to think of the cost). She points out that the silk weft makes the fabric softer and more supple. I notice that nearly all her shirt fabric samples are made with 20/2 mercerized cotton.

So: I didn't really want to go too fine, and I didn't want to spend much money (although I will, if I have to, to get the necessary result). BUT I don't want really thick fabric. Any ideas?

Frances Gualtieri

Vankoughnet, Ontario, Canada

Comments

Sat, 05/11/2013 - 06:12

Erica J

The only real advice I have to offer is to sample.sample not only the weave, weft, and sett, but finishing techniques. Daryl Lancaster is also teaching her class on sewing with Handwovens, which deals with all aspects of weaving cloth for clothing. Her next class is 5/22 5-7 GMT. Click classes for more information. Good luck, Erica
Sat, 05/11/2013 - 07:14

laurafry

I find 2/8 cotton a bit thick for garments. Ok for winter but not for summer. Laura From BC
Sat, 05/11/2013 - 23:29

Frances G. (not verified)

All good points. Yes, I was looking at my apron woven in 8/2, and realizing the fabric wouldn't work for a light top. The 10/2 seems like the best bet from my stash. I'm still puzzled by someone weaving any fabric for wearing using 5/2.

Frances

Sun, 05/12/2013 - 00:08

sally orgren

If you are only drawing from your stash, stick with the 10/2 (or go finer, like 16/2 or 20/2)

I am not sure what the structure is you are considering, but you might try sampling at a sett tighter than 20 epi—that strikes me as too lose for 10/2, more appropriate for 5/2. You want a handwoven garment to last, so I would start at 24 epi sett for 10/2.

Also, garment fabrics are usually slightly more warp faced, than balanced.

A twill will have more give, like at the elbows. But plain weave is a thinnner fabric overall.

Sun, 05/12/2013 - 11:26

Frances G. (not verified)

Actually, the setts I mentioned are those used in the patterns in the sources I mentioned. The 10/2 pattern is for 4-block summer and winter. Re 20/2: there must be a law about growing older. As I get older (and thicker), I notice I gravitate towards thicker yarns. I used to use 20/2 cotton - now I look at it, and then look away!

Frances

Sun, 05/12/2013 - 17:26

ReedGuy

I find 8/2 cotton in an undulating twill squares up at 20 epi, with 10/2 I find 20-24 epi works, depends on the complexity.

Tue, 05/14/2013 - 04:45

Cat Brysch

10/2 cotton at 20 epi will give you a lovely cloth. Just a reminder, you are not dressing the loom, you are dressing a person....so have the fabric 'light on the loom' so, after it's washed, dried, finished, you have a resulting fabric that still has some drape and softness. I used to say, if you can read the headlines through it on the loom, it would be a lovely fabric to wear later! Also, consider using your 10/2 cotton for warp and then a nice, light rayon for weft to get a better drape. Best of luck and photos, please!

Tue, 05/14/2013 - 11:58

Frances G. (not verified)

Thanks for everyone's input. I'll go with the 10/2, with Cat's suggestions, also may make fabric with the 8/2, for a heavier top. I mean, I live in a climate where we had snow two days ago! I will post photos, but don't hold your breath - my weaving tends to be a winter activity.

Frances Gualtieri