I'm planning a Diy sectional beam, I'm v new to weaving so wondering if you could let me know if I've missed anything 

 

I have a lervad 9 countermarch loom which has no back beam, the warp beam is at the height of the heddles. It has two small holes each end and is slightly flatter there too all the way along. Suggests that two sectional rods/bits could be attached. Would 2 be enough? I see 3 or 4 on most sectional beams. 

 

I'm planning on getting two lengths of normal wood, probs an Inch wide. Then some sturdy U shaped staples and bang them in at 2 inch intervals. 

Comments

Sun, 10/13/2013 - 12:41

ReedGuy

No less than 4 and sometimes 8 depending on roller diameter. Three might not be sufficient. Staples will probably allow for short warps, but how thick of yarn? You could use 1/4" dowel wood and get some more height to the sectional rakes for longer warps. Or you could get 1/8" SS rod which would be stronger and bend to a U shape. Drill all the holes on a drill press, I would strongly recommend. I've build my own sectionals, it's not rocket science, just requires the proper materal and tools. And use a degree of precision.

Mine pictured below is a little unconventional, as many use string to tie on the warp end. I prefer a dowel rod (held by clothes line hooks) that I release when I get to the last yard of warp.

One of my table clothes which I wove with that sectional. And I intend to have thanksgiving dinner on it tomorrow at mother's. :)

Sat, 10/12/2013 - 23:16

sandra.eberhar…

Your dividers need to be very smooth.  I owned a sectional made of 1/4 dowels with flat tops.  Yarn caught on these no matter how carefull I was, which caused huge tension problems.  If they can catch yarns, they will.  If you add pieces of wood to a beam that is even with the heddles, with no back beam, you now have a warp that is higher in back, which can give you shed problems.  If you want to do this, I suggest you move the warp beam down and add a back beam.  It may be easier and cheaper to get pre-made sectional bars from Leclerc.  Leclerc makes these neat guides that attach to the dividers to make sure that no threads catch on the dividers or go in the wrong section. I agree with Reed Guy that staples won't allow you to put very much warp on, and putting long warps on is the reason most people go sectional.  

Sun, 10/13/2013 - 05:29

ReedGuy

The thing is the sectionals alone will cause a rise and fall of the warp as you advance, so the shed changes. You need a back beam for consistant warp height/angle. The dowel wood should be rounded on the ends and very smooth. But wood is wood and the potential to snag a dowel is there because one may develop a check on the end over time. A nice spot to snag. And the sectionals are not all that big of an expense to buy from Leclerc either. You will only save the difference when using inferior materials. SS (stainless steel) is not usually in the hardware store, what you see is brass , galvenized or rolled steel rod. All of which corode. The U's in mine are 1/8" diameter SS. And again all wood has to be smooth for yarn to pass over nicely.

Sun, 10/13/2013 - 06:06

Cranberry987

I was going to use these and maybe coat them with something http://www.diy.com/nav/garden/garden-care-watering/pest-weed-control/landscaping_fabric/Garden-Staples-30-Pack-11907617

 

Not sure if I could move the warp beam, there's not rly anywhere to move it to, it's a folding compact loom so it's all a bit different from some. 

 

I'm wondering what the two sets of holes are for if not for sectional bits? 

Sun, 10/13/2013 - 08:22

Cranberry987

http://imgur.com/a/V2WAc

 

http://imgur.com/6tNqXRf

http://imgur.com/4NC7Nh7

 

 

Sun, 10/13/2013 - 09:48

ReedGuy

It looks like you have a challenge there. I would duplicate the roller and install the rakes into it. A beam that small, I think I would use dowel and round the ends good. You could build up a poly finish on the dowels, sanding lightly between coats. Best way to be sure of the flat quarters on 4 sides is use a square piece of stock and centre it on a lathe real careful. Turn it down to leave a little bit of flat surface on 4 faces. Before removing from the lathe, use a pencil and mark the 2" sections using the tool rest. That way they are aligned all the way around the roller. Then install the dowels, on centre of the drawn lines with drill press to drill out the holes. With the flat edges, the roller will lie flat as you drill.  You also need to drill holes for the cord, and countersink them like the original. Then if you decide sectional won't work on your loom, you can just swap it out. Lots of work maybe, but will learn something at least.

This loom is probably limited to short warps, is it not? And probably have to advance quite often because of the depth. Ideally you need depth and a back beam. Leclercs design has the roller lower and on top of the roller supports sits the back beam. And meant mainly for wider looms I think.

Do you have a spool rack and a tension box with counter? Or maybe an AVL warping wheel?

Sun, 10/13/2013 - 13:35

Cranberry987

That sounds interesting, for now I'm going to try 4 sections with the staples and see how it goes. I just did a 6m warp as my first project and going for 15 ish this time, does need a lot of advancing but that's fine. The loom says it's specifically made to maximise the space so might be a bit more suitable than other looms of the same size, who knows, it worked Ok for me. 

The staples were slightly too wide so have drilled the holes in at a slight angle so can pinch them in a bit, used a fixed drill, every 2". Thinking about how to attach them, either some sort of super velcro or bolts through the existing holes if they're in the end section which wouldn't have any yarn on. 

I've got a spool rack and tension box with counter borrowed from a friend, will buy if I get on with it, avl sounds good but I don't rly want to invest that much at the moment. 

 

If this doesn't work then I might go back to chains and plain beaming, will see how we go, I don't fancy the idea of doing such long warps that way rly. 

Sun, 10/13/2013 - 19:15

ReedGuy

Well, I guess your mind is made up. :)

If your ever weaving on a solid countermarch floor loom with 5 feet + depth from heddles to beam you'll see quite a difference in shed and in woven sections before advancement. Just saying.

Sun, 10/13/2013 - 19:34

Cranberry987

Possibly but that then wouldn't fit in my house so it's moot really. Thankyou for your help. 

Mon, 10/14/2013 - 01:10

steve104c (not verified)

You can get the large "U" staples from Glimakra USA for a good price. Contact Joann and she will you.
Mon, 10/14/2013 - 08:08

ReedGuy

Well, good luck with your project none-the-less. I will be interested to see your first weaving project on the sectional. :)

Mon, 10/14/2013 - 22:31

sandra.eberhar…

I think the reason your beams have flat sections on them is it's a lot easier to work with a round that has at least one flat section; it doesn't roll and it's easier to secure for drilling.  Since they are equiped with cords for warping, and you don't have a back beam, I don't think it was meant to have a sectional beam.  Good luck with your project, I hope it works out well for you.