Because I have a lot of fleeces I have been cleaning carding and spinning them. I want to make a rug for in front of the fire.

I have noticed that there is quite a variation in the thicknesses of the warp threads. Is there any special considerations I need to take when using them on my 4 frame floor loom?

Many Thanks

Paul

Comments

Sat, 06/22/2013 - 16:58

Thresel

I weave my handspun for scarves, in both warp and weft.  I use singles.  Are you using plied?  The singles can sometimes fray if there is a thick spot that wasn't spun sufficiently.  I use "fray check" when that happens.  You could also use hair gel which would wash out completely.  I just put a little between my thumb and index finger and roll the frayed end between them.  Once dried you really can't see any difference in the threads.  The only issue I have is the really thin areas, especiallly in the weft.  When I'm winding the warp, I remove any very thin areas of thread.

Hope this helps

Sat, 06/22/2013 - 19:40

Kade1301

According to Peter Collingwood (Techniques of Rug Weaving, available online), wool rugs are either warp faced or weft faced (balanced is reserved for stiffer yarns like jute, sisal, etc.). When I'm weaving a weft-faced fabric, I buy the warp - I just don't see the point of wasting my spinning time on yarn that won't be visible.

But if you want an all-handspun rug, I would strongly suggest plying the warp - much safer than working with singles. 

"quite a variation in the thicknesses of the warp threads" - do you mean from one skein to the next or within a skein? If you have skeins/balls of different yarn diameter, spread them evenly (by winding the warp from several skeins/balls) so that one half of the rug doesn't end up thinner than the other. If the skein is uneven in itself - 10 cm thicker, 5 cm thinner etc. - make sure that the thickest part of the yarn fits comfortably through the chosen reed.

Different diameters for weft are not a problem at all.

Otherwise, just do it and have fun!

Sun, 06/23/2013 - 10:20

Yvonne K

Hi Paulz,

I have made three successful double corduroy rugs from handspun yarn, and I use them in front of the fire or as doormats in my sliding door entries. The advantage of a pile rug is that if it gets a bit singed from a spark or coal, the wool just becomes a bit shorter - there is no visible burn mark. A pile rug is also easy to shake out. Bits of debris do not get caught by the fibres as they do in a weft faced rug.

The double corduroy rugs are from Peter Collingwood's book, " The Techniques of Rug Weaving, " which is now available to download for free. I have found that the best warp is a medium weight seine twine. Any combination of yarn thickness goes well in the weft. Here is a link to view a rug being woven. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ausyk/sets/72157634280708842/

Mon, 06/24/2013 - 12:03

paulz

Looks just the sort ot thing that I want to produce. I had a look at it on line on the computer but am not sure where I'm going with it. Will print the pages off and see if I can work it out the oldfashioned way - with words on a page

Paul

Mon, 06/24/2013 - 16:45

Sara von Tresckow

Handspun wool rug warp should be from a sturdy breed - Romney, Cotswold, Frisian, Lincoln, etc. You don't want it to be stretchy like downs wool, merino or corriedale are too soft and tender.

The singles should be rather thin and the plying firm. I've done several this way and the one in our home is 30 years old and shows no signs of wear. The thickness should be rather consistent or you will see variations on the surface - even if using a weft face technique.

There are also wool yarns spun to be used as rug warp - R.B. Burnham in Arizona carries warps used by the Navajo in rug weaving, Davidson's Old Mill Yarns in Michigan carries a 3 or 4 ply rug warp, Tapetes de Lana in Mora, NM sells Churro rug warp. All of these yarns have little elasticity and are so tough that you cannot break them, you need to use a scissors.

Anything that can also be used as knitting yarn - or handspun that is similar will be less suited to using as rug warp.

Tue, 06/25/2013 - 07:01

paulz

I have worked out where I was getting confused on Peter Collingwood's instructions. When he writes 13 on the diagram he means (of course stupid me) shafts 1 and 3. I was trying to work out where 13 (thirteen) rows could go to. As soon as its on paper I could sort it.

The wool I am using is Cotswold. I have another 6 or 7 fleeces arriving in July so I need to get last years's sorted first.

Also thanks Sara but its a long way to go for yarn.I'm in the UK!! Will have to look around here.

Paul

Tue, 06/25/2013 - 07:45

Yvonne K

Hi Paul,

From experience, I found:

Don't make the stranded pile weft too thick - it needs to be firmly held by the tabby weft when the pile is cut, and the spaces can get too big if the pile is too thick.

Try looping the pile weft for a longer pile - Collingwood discusses this.

Perhaps use two tabby picks of thinnish, strong yarn. Collingwood uses one, but an oriental pile rug would have two picks. Beat firmly.

These rugs are washable, but the pile will come out over time if it is too short or too loosely woven.

 Enjoy!  Yvonne