I recently purchased a *Binder* Loom, i only include asteriks because it merely says binder on a sticker on the loom (pictured), and who's to say... So I watched the complete videos on Youtube of Elizabeth Wagner, and I was feeling very confident that I took everything in correctly, and I couldn't seem to figure out where the sectional beam fit in with her instructions. my front bream has strapping connected to a flat dowel, and so  does the sectional beam. Photos below

 

http://tinypic.com/r/2eugwug/9

http://tinypic.com/r/2njjzah/9

Comments

Fri, 04/01/2016 - 12:44

mneligh

I know nothing about Binder looms.

Many people use the dowel with a sectional beam to have it function like a regular, non-sectional beam.  I personally have never seen the advantage of doing that since I adore sectional B2F warping, but F2B (front to back) warpers seem to think it's useful.  I would think that you would have to pay close attention to how the warp ends divided into sections with each turn of the beam, but I've never tried it.

Fri, 04/01/2016 - 12:46

sequel (not verified)

It looks like you are warping front to back on a sectional beam?  Or not, since you seem to have a warp spread and woven already.  Are you asking how to attach the warp shown to the back, sectional beam?  If the beam has a tie-on rod, you will just tie on to that and arrange your warp between the pegs as you wind on.  Most sectional set-ups have individual ties or leashes for each 2" section.  You might want to look up videos of "chain warping on a sectional beam", which is probably geared to back-to-front warping, but may be helpful.  Old rug looms were often stored with a dummy warp already in the sections and new warps were tied onto the dummy warp, which is a front to back technique.

Fri, 04/01/2016 - 19:34

SusanBH

I have an 8-shaft 10-treadle Binder loom and that sure looks like one to me.  The warp beam is pretty distinctive, as are the springs under the treadles.  Does it have a thick rope as the brake cable? 

When warping on the sectional beam on mine I either tie the warp onto the dowel and keep it sectioned between the pegs, or if I'm winding one section at a time I use individual ties as sequel says.  I can't really tell how you're approaching warping this, but I recommend back to front (tying onto the warp beam, then threading heddles and sleying the reed rather than doing it in the reverse order).  It is possible to remove the front beam and beater section so you can get pretty close to the heddles from the front. If you try to sley the reed and then thread the heddles you'll have to reach over that warp beam and that will not be comfortable.

Sat, 04/02/2016 - 07:25

Gone

If you don't like sectional or feel uncomfortable with it, another option is to flip the sectional bars/pins inward and warp like a plain beam. Sectional usually requires a tension box and spool rack. But you can wind sections on a warping board and transfer the bouts individually with a tension box.  Elizabeth Wagner doesn't explain sectional warping in her videos. She wound plain beam - and she wound front to back, albeit good instructional videos

Sun, 04/03/2016 - 14:30

mneligh

The exception to the tension box requirement for sectional warping is the AVL warping wheel.  Once you get the hang of it, this method significantly decreases warping time.  Tension is built into the mechanism.

Sun, 04/03/2016 - 23:05

ReedGuy

I just wound spools this morning for a 5 yard by 26" wide warp with tension box and on the loom in 2 hours this morning. With a wheel your also winding spools, only it's a big wheel for every section with all the ends. If you are doing a large number of yards, the wheel falls behind. 100 yards per regular spool at several rpm's to fill 30 spools, or 150 yards of yarn for 30 ends to fill 20 sections and slow hand winding to fill the wheel. There's not much time to save.

And I do make a cross in lease sticks, by section, so there would be 30 ends per cross. Takes 10 minutes tops.

Where the wheel really shines is if there is a mix of colors of different number of ends. It doesn't really gain anything if the ends are consistent in width of the stripes across the warp. There may be other benefits such as waste. But that depends to, as I don't waste, it gets a turn as weft unless it's a couple yards which often I hang onto for warp repair, which isn't all the frequent.

The warping square is another alterative which many prefer over the wheel.