I have a yurt and love to research projects to decorate it correctly with.  I asked Bolivian Warmi  for help getting the right technique and she quickly pointed out that page 67 or 69 in the Peruvian book by Cahlender had the exact technique.  Here is a picture of the project from the book.  It's the same as the First half of the double weave weavalong technique but is not doublewoven.  It is warped the exact same way and picked the same way as the first step/first shuttle throw of the doubleweave project!   I am really excited.  Jajims are basically blankets and rugs made on a narrow warp then cut and pieced together.  So literature suggests that they may be quilted on the back.  Rug restorers in the past have had a nasty habit of taking them apart to use the dyed wools to restore the more valuable cut pile pieces. 

       front and back.

 

This is the pattern from the Cahlender book warped with one color of border and done in Paton's 100% wool respun on my wheel.  It was surprisely fast and easy.  I did not "set" the wool but wrapped it around some tissue paper to create balls then used a warping board to put the warp together.  Here are some links to some truly wonderful jajims.  They have a second name of Gujari.... and you can find them on ebay using both this warp substitution method and a pebbleweave method.

http://www.spongobongo.com/daxx46.htm

http://www.turkotek.com/salon_00116/s116t5.htm

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220442192703&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290056519248&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

 

Comments

bolivian warmi

 I have never been a fan of warp floats on the back of things but any project where the warp floats can't be seen or get caught up on stuff woud be great for this- I am thinking cushion covers, a lined bag....the designs are irresistable! and it weaves up fast-a super easy pick up without the extra step to weave the second layer.

Thanks for this Lisa-when I gave you that page number I never expected you to be up and running with this so fast!!

 

Virag (not verified)

Oh, I'm running and plotting already:>.  Now if I can just get my charts to come out right.  I'm trying to graph some of the Uzbek pieces and can't quite get it to come out.  I crave making one:>:>:>

Caroline (not verified)

Just don't dribble on the graph paper, lol! 

Those rugs are magnificent and inspiring! I've been browsing the links you provided, and drooling. So much beautiful work!

Virag (not verified)

I love the idea that you can take a figured pattern or two and sandwich it with plainweave up to a width of 15 inches then sew them side by side.  I just Love it.  I doubt I'll ever make a 6ft x 6ft piece but a smaller piece is in my future:>

Caroline (not verified)

What always stuns me is that the weavers follow instinct rather than a formal written pattern - its like a tribal memory imprinted on their brains, generation of weavers after generation. I hope this does not die out as our Western world intrudes upon their way of life, because we will all be the poorer.

I'll be following your project with interest so I hope you take lots of photos! I'm still trying to work out my colour scheme - I have the motif picked out, from a Mary Meigs Atwater article on Peruvian belt weaves.

Virag (not verified)

I will post here when I get to it but would be fascinated to see what you do from the Atwater weaves.   I'm trying to decide right now how big of a piece to try to do, what to use for warp, etc.  The respun Paton's is working very well and feels right at least:>.  What will you use for your warp?

Caroline (not verified)

I've been very lucky! After complaining about the price of cotton yarn, I have been able to buy some Perle cotton at a reasonable price, so I shall be using that. Its about 30wpi, so quite fine, and should make up nicely. The background colour will be light blue, mainly because I have most of that, lol! I am about to try a sample, and I still have to work out stripes etc. The Atwater motifs are 38 threads wide, so approximately an inch wide once woven, and there is a whole series of motifs. Its from an article called "A Primitive Weave" published in Weaver in 1941:

www.handweaving.net/DAItemDetail.aspx

though it looks as if the belt is a lot wider than 1 inch the way she has woven it. I want to use it as the central panel in a small bag, but I'm wondering if I would be better warping it up as a belt and doing them all. it looks rather nice.

bolivian warmi

Oooooh!!!....nice perle cotton.

i am so glad that you are doing a sample first to see how the cotton behaves and what width it will give you.

If you can't decide whether you want to do a bag or a belt why don't you weave up all the motifs in what could be the sides of your bag?. If you want your bag sides to be wider than the inch provided by the motifs, just add more plain on either side.

Then you could make the bag body-mostly plain with some stripes and a strip of motifs down the center.

You could weave the band for the sides in double weave which will make nice stiff supportive sides and then the pattern center strip on the bag could be done in singe layer like Lisa is doing. Line the bag and you won't have any problems with the floats on the back-snagging fingers or rings when you dive into the bag.

Can't wait to see these!

Laverne

Virag (not verified)

Well, I've finally started.  I charted some designs from the same group and then went into my studio to see what I could find.  Last year a weaver in our guild gave me Lots of rug yarn which is appropiately coarse wool for this project and the colors have a natural dyed look about them.  I Love the colors in the "contemporary" rugs but I'm interested in representing something that could have been woven pre1600 hence trying to find colors that don't scream out modern dyes:>.  I have most of the first part of the band on my board but I'm running out of room so I'll have to warp it in sections and pray I can keep the tension right.  Tomorrow I'll do a second one just as wide then start putting it on the backstrap loom.

bolivian warmi

How wide will each piece be? and how many pieces are you planning on making to put together? I think these colors have a nice soft  natural look.

Virag (not verified)

 Well, I think about 6 to 8 inches wide.  I'm lucky to have had the colors just sitting on the shelf:>:>:>.

Caroline (not verified)

I have warped up the first strip of my bag using pale blue as the background colour that will tie everything together. I'm using the same motif as Virag used from the Cahlander book, only doing it in double weave to provide a bit of support in the centre of the strip in case thats where I decide to put the fasteners. There will be light blue, dark blue and bright red stripes using a comb design on either side, and the strip should be about 2 inches wide. I now have to sort out the warps and put in the string heddles, what fun!

Whether this is a side strip, or I use it as the central strip is going to depend on what I think of it once its finished.

I'm using Perle # 5, with a light blue weft of the same.

Once its ready to go I will start a new thread and post piccies.

Virag, I'm looking forward to seeing progress reports of your band!

Its a good feeling having people to weave along with, even though we are doing totally different projects.

bolivian warmi

Woh! you are doing  a weave-along one AND two project all at once. I love it!!!!

Clever idea doing the double weave where you plan on putting the fasteners. I have always had to put something on the inside of the bag as reinforcement for the fasteners.

hurry hurry up with the warping! wanna see it.

Virag (not verified)

Well, I've spent my free time over the past two days warping.  Now that the heddles are on the shed won't clear for love nor money.  I made a very simple, newbie mistake that I Know better then to do and didn't do a test strip with this rug wool.  It sticks like concrete:<.  I think I could put it on the floor loom and salvage the project but what I want to do is as much about process as it is about project.  I'm going to try spray strarch on it and let that dry then try again.  If that doesn't work I"m going to think really hard then start over more slowly.

francorios (not verified)

Can you spread the warp over the loom bars then pull it tight as you weave?

That would give you some space for the sheds to move and then you can pull the strap tighter as you weave. I know my strap width changed a lot while I was weaving so that part is variable.

I tried using a shed string but it made the warps bunch up and they would stick. So I put a shed stick up to spread my string heddles and spread the warp on the loom bars too.

That might help.

Have a good day!

bolivian warmi

Some yarns are just like that-makes the weaving less fun but it is do-able. When you pull up on the heddle stick you also have to push all the warps down behind it starting on the right and working your way across to the left. I find doing it with just my thumb a few warps at a time is best. Weavers here have a special tool that they use for this with which they go punching the warps down-it's just a square of wood with a handle-the square has rounded corners and beveled edges.

When you want to open the stick shed you just have to get your hands in under the warps and literally lift them up section by section-if they are really really sticky you may even have to get another hand in there and push the opposing warps down.

Hard work-not for hot weather but I have seen weavers working that way here and if I am weaving on a wide warp, say 28cm or so I usually have to do something like that.

Another thing-you may have the warps pushed too close together. I still tend to do that even after all this time. The best way to judge how wide the piece will turn out is to sit with the warp under tension and put your cross sticks back in. Measure the width across the warps at the cross sticks-just have the warps from each stick sitting comfortably next to their partners.

BUT REMEMBER.....if you have warped up for DOUBLE weave, you actually have twice as many warps in the pattern area as will be seen on the surface of the weave so you need to take that into account if you are using this method to judge the width of your finished piece.

Then spread the warps at your loom bar to make this width-they will look as if they are spread too far apart but this is pretty much the width this yarn WANTS to be and it will fight you every inch of the way if you decide otherwise!!!

 

 

pamengberg (not verified)

Hi, everyone,

I've just found Weavolution so it will take me a while to figure out how everything works, but your moderator asked me to introduce myself, so here's a brief introduction regarding my backstrap experience: I took several classes with Ed Franquemont in the 90's, mostly at Harrisville Designs. The photo shows the sort of thing I learned. I have used Cahlander's "Bolivian Highland Weaving" book to learn other methods, but I have never been able to get wider than about 2 inches (chumpis). I do have a nice set of sticks that came from Guatemala and hoped to be able to weave some wider fabric and play with brocading, but I either can't get a shed or it is unevenly tensioned. So when I teach I stick to the narrow widths and everyone seems happy with what they are doing.

You can learn a bit more by looking at my profile - I teach several kinds of weaving and especially love Navajo. I notice some of you are interested in Central Asia - I had 3 short trips to Uzbekistan in 2006, 7, and 8 but was mostly in Bukhara and Khiva and saw only silk cut-pile carpet weaving, so my real love of woolen weaving, kilims and bands, had to be satisfied with pieces I picked up in Bukhara and figured out using Marla Mallett's web site. I am now helping to sponsor my translator at Columbia so if anyone needs an Uzbek connection maybe we can help.

Sorry I'm going on and on... I have to say that I seldom do big pieces; I just love figuring out how things are done. I look forward to learning from you folks and hope I will have something to offer the group.

Best,

Pam Engberg

bolivian warmi

Oh! I recognize those designs-wonderful. Glad to find another Cahlander fan here-she is amazing in what she managed to cover in that book. What yarn are you using? Did you respin it yourself?

I know you are going to get a lot of questions about Uzbekistan and requests for pictures so I will leave that up to the others.

welcome!

Caroline (not verified)

Hi Pam, and welcome! From the sounds of it we will be learning from you!

The person to ask about wider pieces is Laverne who is generally not far away.

We are all at different stages of learning, as you can tell from the WALs, but we have fun and enjoy what we are doing. I think there are a few of us with the Cahlander Bolivian book, but I have to admit I find the way she explains things a bit confusing at times, and Laverne definitely makes things much easier to understand - its most likely because she is not trying to turn everything into a 4 shaft weave as Cahlander is doing.

You were lucky having Ed Franquemont as a tutor! I have a book with an article of his in it that I want to work my way through, but feel I need to re-enforce what I have learned so far before I try out any new techniques. I'm about to combine the techniques from WAL1 and WAL2 into the one piece.  I want to make a small bag, and this will be one of the panels I use, probably the central one, but I'll see how it goes. I'm still only sorting out the sheds.

I'd love to see more of your work, so please post more photos, or else have you a blog or website where we can go and be nosey? Working out how something is woven is half the fun, isn't it?

Catch you later. I'm in Australia, and some of the others are in Europe, so this forum tends to keep going 24/24.

 

Virag (not verified)

Hi Pam, welcome onboard.  What lovely work!  Does your Uzbek friend weave too?  I'd love to ask questions about the names of different types of Uzbek weaving styles and tools.  Hope you'll post here often, Virag

Virag (not verified)

Well the first warp was a disaster so I'm starting over.  I have put out my warping stakes in the ground---a technique I saw on a youtube video of a Nepalese weaver---and then overspun commercial worsted weight wool for my warp.  It comes out to 15 epi when woven.

I'm halfway thru the warping process but lost the light so the project is covered up outside with a tarp till the dew dries tomorrow.

bolivian warmi

Wish I could warp outdoors like that. They look like nice sturdy stakes. Just make sure they don't start leaning in as you go warping further up.

At least you can rescue the yarn from the other warp-good thing about the backstrap-nothing gets cut, right? :-)

 

 

Virag (not verified)

 Seriously:>.  Actually the other yarn is very weak (it's old and free) so I'm not sure if it's going to hold up to repurposing on the four shaft loom or not.  These stakes are really, really thick and don't move a bit.  I feel like I'm ready to stake a giant vampire when I walk outside with them:>.  

This time of year it's really, really nice to be outdoors but the mosquitoes where threatening to carry me off.  I am thinking hard about how I'll bring the backstrap loom inside for use during the winter.  That might even be an interesting thread all it's own.  On this project I've graphed out the colors and I'm really looking forward to getting it on the loom tomorrow even though what I need to be doing is working in the garden:>.

bolivian warmi

OK. I'll admit I was just being ''correct'' talking about the yarn rescue-you know, reuse, recycle and all that. When I have a warping crisis, like I miscounted or put in a stripe of the wrong color or whatever I just want that thing OUT OF MY SIGHT!! It usually goes into the closet and I tell myself I can use it for braids or something....and then 6 months later I can finally make myself throw it out!.

Virag (not verified)

Well, here is the progress so far.  I'm not as far along as I'd like to be but this requires some concentration and I'm prob. further along then I ought to be given the stuff I need to be doing in the garden:>:>:>.  I made some mistakes in picking and it took me a bit to get back but a friend reminded me this weekend that even my real yurt band had lots of mistakes in it so I guess I'm ok with not unweaving 2 days worth of work. 

bolivian warmi

I LOVE LOVE LOVE IT!!! It's great seeing the mystery designs appearing bit by bit day by day! Congratulations-this is so cool.

Aquinnah (not verified)

 Hi Virag! Love all your textile pics!!

Virag (not verified)

Thank you:>.  I WISH I could have taken a picture of the real Jajim I found at a store in a back corner yesterday.  It was awesome!

 

Aunt Janet (not verified)

This is cool!  I'm going to have to drive some stakes into the ground for outdoor warping.  Wait a minute, it is supposed to rain this week.  I'd better hurry up.

Aunt Janet

Caroline (not verified)

Not my work, but this should appeal to Virag (grin) as its made from rescued pieces of yurt furnishings from Uzbekistan:

The pattern threads are a very strong single ply handspun, and the ground is also handspun - goat I think, whatever it is is quite harsh and kempy. The warp is brown/grey, and the weft is red-dyed grey ( I'm assuming this is a warp-faced pattern). The side pieces come from a different piece of fabric - photos to come, and the shoulder strap and trim is a warp faced band, quite solid compared to modern mass-produced trims. I'm assuming this is warp-faced rather than weft-faced because most of these tribal weavings are done in strips, but I am happy to stand corrected.

bolivian warmi

Very nice Caroline! This is the one you showed us before now ''in the flesh'' so to speak, right? It looks to me like weft patterning because of the bit of yellow I can see in the open flap. It looks like that is a piece of yellow weft that has been woven back and forth and turned around the warps on the edges of the diamond pattern. 

I am sure that piece of velcro is going to be taken right off!!

Caroline (not verified)

The velcro has gone, and you are right! It is sideways - I have found a piece with a very similar motif, and it appears the motif on the bag should be sideways, not up and down, lol!

The vendor has a  workshop in Tashkent and recycles old fabrics and furnishings into bags, rugs etc and sells them on Ebay. I knew I was not buying an original vintage bag, it was recycled, but that didn't matter to me as its pretty, and its the fabric construction I'm interested in. Since he is being honest and up-front about what he is doing, it suits my budget, and I still get to own a bit of tribal weaving. I have another 2 bags on their way; one is very similar to the weaving that started off this thread, so it will be  interesting to see that one in the flesh, and last night I won another bag, recycled silk ikat this time. Sadly, since he spotted my interest, his auctions no longer start at $1.00 so my winning streak is over.