I'm experimenting using different materials for winding on my warp. I've used brown paper (kraft) but am not so sure that's the best. I've seen posts on here about using bamboo shades, newspaper, corrugated cardboard, but have not heard mention of bubble wrap. Has anybody tried it? 

Comments

Wed, 06/03/2015 - 00:08

sandra.eberhar…

If it's successful, the packing material will prevent one layer of warp from sinking into lower layers (must have some stiffness) and keep threads from dropping off the edge (stiffness again).  Maybe if you starched the bubble warp to give it stiffness?  It also must allow the layers of warp to wind on evenly, which I think the bubbles are an antithesis to.  I think it also will compress in some areas like the open face corrugated mentioned recently. If your kraft paper worked, why would you think it's not the best?  If it didn't work, I would analyze why and fix that (threads fell of the edge? Bad tension?)  I have warped very successfuly using pink construction paper or sticks, depending on the width of the loom.  For an odd beam that I wanted a very tight warp tension on i used fiberglass screening, which is more expensive, but so was the warp.

Wed, 06/03/2015 - 01:29

Weavin Steven

Bubble-wrap, like kraft and brown paper, comes in many different varieties. Size of the bubbles, color, feel. The bubble-wrap I'm thinking of using has tiny bubbles (like the song!), and almost has a slightly sticky feeling. It feels like it has the same or better stiffness than some brown paper. 

Wed, 06/03/2015 - 01:32

Weavin Steven

I've now talked myself into using it for a narrow warp, and I'll wind on with the bubbles face-down (non-ridgy side against the yarn). I'll report back later this month to let you know how it went. The only negative so far is that it's hard to resist popping those bubbles…

Wed, 06/03/2015 - 02:31

Sara von Tresckow

The brown kraft paper looks good when winding, but is so stiff that the threads can move around between the lower layers, spread toward the edges and give you a hidden cigar shape. Corrugated, the same.

I have successfully used newspring weight paper for many years - it separates the layers and keeps the warp package firm - as is also the case with warp sticks. While the blinds can be decent, there is nothing better than quarter sawn Swedish warp sticks.

Wed, 06/03/2015 - 13:11

Artistry

Weavin Steven, Some people adhere to the " yank and crank" method of winding on their warps I feel keeping an even firm tension on the warp is best. I can hear all those tiny bubbles popping from here! Then you'd really be in trouble with an uneven packing surface. But I also adhere to the school of try it and see what happens school so............ I do use heavy craft paper, as Sara says ,it is stiff and I don't put on anything longer than 6-7 yds on the loom I use it on. The secret to the heavy craft paper , I feel, is to keep the pieces short ( under a yd) and pre mold it in your hands by rolling it in a cylinder . This way it will not wrinkle on you and will roll smoothly. Be sure it rolls on evenly, give it a good pull in the center every rotatation to take up slack so the paper stays straight. I have had no problem doing it this way. However I agree with Sara an investment in good sticks will be one you won't regret! I have them for a larger loom and they 're great.
Wed, 06/03/2015 - 13:15

Artistry

BTW, Sara, I couldn't find newspring weight paper. Does it come by a different name? Thank you, Cathie
Wed, 06/03/2015 - 13:46

sequel (not verified)

Newsprint is available in large pads at office supply stores for flipchart presentations.  Also art supply stores. 

Heavy kraft paper won't "cigar" like Sara said if the first sheet has folded "flanges" on the ends.  Many books give instructions for folding in one or two 1" layers of paper at either end, just beyond the width of the warp.

 

But bubble wrap may make a nice packing for a heavily textured cloth as it winds onto the cloth beam!

Wed, 06/03/2015 - 23:52

Guiding Myth (not verified)

Years ago I had a conversation with a glass artist who told me that bubble wrap has a shelf life.  You can order it by the qualities you need including how long the bubbles actually stay inflated.  But after a period of time they all become less inflated.  I can't help but wonder if the tension of a warp would hasten the deflation.  Just something to be aware of.  

Stephanie S

Thu, 06/04/2015 - 03:16

Weavin Steven

Update 6-3-15

So far so good. I've got an 8-yard warp of Tencel wound on the back beam. I was able to weave a bit today but only 20 inches or so. Too early to tell if it's going to work for the entire length. But I have to say I'm very impressed on how the yarn is holding up. No cigar-shaped warp, and a nice tight, even fell line. Selvages are nice and tight and not wimpy.

I beamed under tension and did not hear or see any bubble popping. I was pretty amazed at how the wrap "took" the warp yarns and held them in place. No movement at all.

Regarding the previous comment about bubble wrap having a shelf-life: I did a search and couldn't find any info about that. It would definitely be a concern though. I'd be happy if one roll of ten yard, ten dollar bubble wrap lasts a year (about 50 warps or so for me).

Thu, 06/04/2015 - 09:23

Artistry

No, snap, crackle, pop, then! Let us now how it continues to hold up:) Cathie
Fri, 06/05/2015 - 23:19

Weavin Steven

Well it's no longer unicorns and rainbows.

I'm about two-thirds of the way through the warp and things are NOT looking good for our hero. The yarns are slipping hither and yon and are frustrating this weaver. They all wound on just fine. The problem appears to be when I advance the warp the yarns slip to one side or another of a bubble. 

If there was a way to keep an even tension throughout the entire weaving process this might not happen. But when I release the brake the warp loses tension and gives the yarn opportunity to slide.

Back to square one. I like Laura Fry's use of bamboo shades as packing material. I'll try that next.

Sat, 06/06/2015 - 08:09

ReedGuy

Sticks, I like warp sticks. For me, easily made and added to the supply. A lot of my warps (10/2, 20/2 cotton) are on a sectional and some on a flanged beam, so I'm usng the sticks mostly on the cloth. It's just so easy to slip a stick into a warp than to struggle (I've seen videos) with a long sheet of something to keep it feeding square. ;)

Sat, 06/06/2015 - 14:33

Sara von Tresckow

Steven,

Your slipping and sliding is the same as what happens with corrugated or kraft paper - the warp goes on just fine, but problems occur and continue as the warp is advanced. The material used for packing is stiff and slippery - and does not bind the warp ends in a tight roll.

Sticks form a firm ground - the blind slats are ok, but can bend inward and cause a cigar on some warps. Thinner paper binds the layers of warp in a way that the threads do not slide.

And just FYI - I have at times used newspring on white linen warps and because there is no rubbing of the warp threads, there has never been any dirtying of the warp from the ink used.

The best paper packing I ever usedwas many years ago from the German VDI Nachrichten, an engineering weekly printed on slightly coated newsprint, the right width for most projects and "just right".

Sat, 06/06/2015 - 14:45

jmbennett (not verified)

I highly recommend sticks.  They are not expensive but if you want you can make your own from materials at local home improvement store, lumbar yard, hardware store.  I have tons of sticks for my two looms and use them for all sorts of things besides winding on to the cloth and warp beams.  

 

Sat, 06/06/2015 - 14:46

jmbennett (not verified)

lumber not lumbar--

 

Sun, 06/07/2015 - 00:40

Artistry

Weavin Steven, What a bummer, live and learn, right? You might be able to take a stick and slide it down between the bubble wrap and warp for your next brake release. It would be a slow go, to move the stick down for every brake release but it might, and I say might, keep your warp from sliding. Good luck and remember this is how we learn:) Cathie
Sun, 06/07/2015 - 00:45

Weavin Steven

I just cut and will retie what's left. 

Even Picasso and Beethoven had their off days!

Sun, 06/07/2015 - 00:59

ReedGuy

Yarn might be discarded, but the earth is still spinning. :)

Mon, 06/08/2015 - 01:44

ddsries

I've used kraft paper in lengths of about a yard and while it worked in keeping the threads in place, I had a hard time getting the paper loaded evenly and ended up with the paper rolling on unevenly.

I am now trying a different route.  I have cut the kraft paper into the width I need (for my Baby Wolf, about 25") and six inches wide. I then fold the paper strip into thirds so that I end up with a piece about 2.5" x 25".  The ends are taped closed with masking tape.   It has more heft than a single layer of paper and I can place each strip on the beam easily and at intervals that keep the threads in place.  It works much like sticks would work, but takes up less space on the beam.  

I've tried it on a 4 yard warp of 8/2 cotton and it worked well.  This method has not been thoroughly tested, though, so weaver beware!  ;-)