I am having some difficulty with this round of blankets I'm weaving.

I am weaving the full width of my reed (52") and I have not had this problem before (except when I was weaving with bamboo at 36" wide).

The warp threads at the selvedges, about two or three threads in from my floating selvedge are fraying, and then once those are broken the selvedge threads go. My draw in is only 1/4" and I have been using a temple. I am not sure if it is the reed, or if I have things tensioned improperly, or if it is something about the warp (it is a Romney single which seems fine across the rest of the warp).

I have tried tying new threads to the broken ones but the same thing keeps occuring. 

Look forward to the input. 

-Tegan

Comments

Tue, 08/27/2013 - 20:53

mrdubyah (not verified)

By any chance are the threads that are fraying the same ones that are being caught by the temple?  It may be that the teeth of the temple are pushing those threads out of alignment and causing them to rub against the reed (or something else) resulting in the fraying.  Only 1/4" of draw-in is mighty small for a 52" wide warp which suggests that you might have too much temple tension.  Perhaps you might try backing off on the temple just a bit or maybe even weave a few inches without the temple (try using weft stretchers instead if necessary) and see if that helps. 

Tue, 08/27/2013 - 20:54

Sara von Tresckow

It could be your warp beaming - what are you using for packing material? Sometimes if using thick paper or corrugated, the threads at the edge slip in the lower layers, shortening those outside threads.

I often double the last two working ends to make the selvedge more stable - this also gives a bit of protection against breakage. Using a single could be slowly untwisting those threads at the edge and a double strand wouldn't be as likely to untwist.

Try sizing the edges using spray starch or hair spray to give those threads more stability.

Throw the shuttle very gently and advance frequently to keep the areas prone to abrasion moving right along.

 

Wed, 08/28/2013 - 12:20

comfortclothweaving

Thank you! I actually stopped using the temple when the ends started breaking more frequently. But after I did that they were breaking worse. I advance every couple of inches because based off of my samples the warp would abrade if I didn't advance it as much.

For packing material I am using brown kraft paper that you can get at home depot. I never had a problem with it. And the starch didnt do much of anything to the wool.

What I am trying now is double the warp an inch on each side. So I will have two warp threads in each heddle. I have a second back beam so I can wind them on seperately. I will let you know how it works out!

Thank you again,
-Tegan 

Wed, 08/28/2013 - 12:51

sequel (not verified)

The paper sold at Home Depot is maybe half (or one fourth) as thick as it needs to be.  You need to get a product called Rugby Paper.  I get mine at a local hardware store that caters to contractors and builders. 

Wed, 08/28/2013 - 21:20

ReedGuy

Keep using the temple. I'm also worried that your outter threads are tensioned more because of slippage as Sara suggested. What do the outer ends feel like for tension, versus the body of the warp? Move your hand across the warp.

Fri, 08/30/2013 - 01:46

sandra.eberhar…

So many people that have problems with broken threads and tension seem to use paper of some sort to warp.  I have always used sticks; less convenient, I guess, but I very, very seldom have problems with tension or broken threads, and I warp a minimum of 14 yards.

Fri, 08/30/2013 - 06:17

ReedGuy

Yes, I've always used warp sticks on a bare beam as well. And the ends have not slipped off the sticks. But my warps have not been longer than 10 yards. Simply because I want to move on to something else. Some folks use wooden slats from blinds.

Fri, 08/30/2013 - 20:11

sally orgren

I start with sticks, and then use a stiff paper. (Something the weight of brown grocery bags, but even they are getting smaller and flimsier if your grocery store still even offers them!) Construction product papers are probably better, and if they come on a roll to curl naturally, great!

My rule of thumb is to add sticks every 5 yards or so, to make sure the circumference at the edges is the same thoughout the warp. Also, I use sticks at the beginning of the warp on the cloth take-up beam. Sticks create a smooth, even surface & consistent circumference at both ends. 

I don't use blind slats because modern plastic slats are not nearly as sturdy as the old products, and if the slats are way longer than the warp width, you can get bowing, which may result in the same problem. 

Finally, I like to refer to the warp beam as being rock hard when wound— not "mushy". I don't want to feel it "give in" a bit if I poke or squeeze it.

Fri, 08/30/2013 - 19:43

ReedGuy

Never used them (sticks) on the cloth beam, will have to try it this next warp. Certainly can't hurt anything. :)

Fri, 08/30/2013 - 21:21

Sara von Tresckow

Actually, I find that the stiff heavy paper is what is the culprit. If I use paper, I use newsprint from our recycling pile. (And NO the print doesn't come off because you're not rubbing on it.) The thinner paper does NOT buckle, comes in small sheets that do not cause issues if they are not inserted perfectly straight, and allow instant feedback about the shape of the warp.

With corrugated and such, there is no indication of how the threads are behaving under that heavy layer - and the beam builds up far more quickly. The thinner paper quality has proven quite effective when I run out of sticks - naturally the thinner paper is beamed continuously between layers with no unpacked rounds included.

Fri, 08/30/2013 - 21:53

ReedGuy

I've never needed extra packing material because of short warps, just the sticks. But I remember you writing about newspaper as packing on a number of forum threads. I get newsprint weekly from all the advertisers, so I fill a box full for starting furnace fires in the fall months. In the dead of winter the fire is always going or hot coals. Winter can't come soon enough. Well, I guess I better watch my tongue. :)