Hello,

I've noticed that some weaving books and videos that talk about creating good selvages use different styles. Specifically, is it best to throw a pick, change to the next shed, and then beat it down? Or, is it best to throw the pick, close the same shed, and then beat it? I'm sure, as with most techniques, people have their own individual favorites. However, I'm on a quest to improve my selvages and looking for tips/tricks that might help.

Also, I'm wondering if one technique is better than another simply due to the type of yarn that is being used. For example, using wool versus linen or hemp. 

Any feedback is appreciated! 

Kathryn;) 

 

 

 

 

Comments

Gone

I'm a newbie but have been told both ways by experienced weavers. What works best 'for me' is to beat on an open shed, then change sheds. beat again if necessary. Bringing the beater to the fell while the shed is open allows the pick to take up all the yarn it needs without pulling in on the ends. I've found my edges to be a lot more consistent this way.  As with everything in weaving, it's what works best for you that really matters.

sandra.eberhar…

What works depends a lot on the weave structure you are working with.  Beating on an open shed may work if draw in is not a concern (Rep for example).  For other weave structures, beating on an open shed may not allow enough weft and will give you lovely edges, but too much draw in.   This can cause tension issues and broken warps.   Most weavers close the shed and beat.  When I was making cloth that was very close to the working width of the loom and working with a fly shuttle, I  closed the shed, changed the shed to trap the weft end, then beat.  I never beat twice.

sally orgren

On a floor loom, you can switch the shed with treadles at the same time as beating, so it becomes a nearly seamless motion.

With a table loom, I change the shed and then beat, because I don't have enough hands to do it simultaneously. Also, if you beat, then change the shed, you'll find you'll want to beat a second time, because the weft "creeps" back toward the reed/castle once the new shed is open.

Not fiddling with the selvedges on each pass helps tremendously. No picking. No plucking. (Try using a temple if you can't resist.)

The way you handle the shuttle beyond the selvedge can also make a difference. Our guild watched Laura Fry's Efficient Weaver video, and it had a lot of great tips, small things can make a big difference.