I am planning to tie new warp on to an existing project. Any recommendations for attaching each thread? The knots will need to be small enough to go through the reed and the heddles, but strong enough to remain tied as they are wound on the beam. Suggestions please!

Comments

Sun, 06/07/2015 - 10:14

Erica J

Check out Peggy Osterkamp's method. There is more detail in her books, which I highly recommend to any weaver!

http://peggyosterkamp.com/pegys-weaving-tips-tying-warps-part/

Sun, 06/07/2015 - 14:10

danteen (not verified)

I agree with Erica.  I use Peggy's method of tying the knots and have done this with hundreds of ends.  Works very well when you get the hang of tying them and can do it automatically.  Helps to have a support under your thumb, so I've suspended a 2-inch wide board which is placed parallel to the heddle frames from cords on the castle.  This is placed like a little table where I do the tying.  Also,  it is important to have the lengths of the warps you are tying together just right.  Long enough to handle easily but not too long.   I check that the knot is firm and not slipping. Then I trim the ends which are about 2" after tying.  I trim them to 1/4" so they don't catch on each other as you advance through the heddles and reed.  (I am tying on at the back, behind the heddles.  Old warp is still through the heddles and reed and the cut end that used to be wound on the warp beam is hanging behind the heddles, new one is wound already on the back beam.  Two sets of lease sticks.)

    Peggy had some diagrams of this type of set up and very clear instructions for tying the knots.  

Teena Tuenge

Mon, 06/08/2015 - 01:29

ddsries

I just completed a project in which I had tied on a new warp. What I encountered as I neared the end of the project and the knots came close to the heddles is that the shed kept getting smaller and smaller.  Turns out that on certain lifts, the knots/knot tails were getting tangled with each other and preventing a full lift of the threads.

I went to the back of the loom, lifted what I thought was the problem shed and picked apart each thread from one another.  I would have done it for each treadle sequence, but the tails kept getting re-tangled.  

I ended up cutting the project a bit short because my patience was running a bit short.  

Perhaps to avoid this, add additional length to your warp so that you can get the required length for your project without the knots getting too close to the heddles.

Wed, 06/10/2015 - 20:30

steve104c (not verified)

Hopefully you have a sectional warp beam. It will make it much easier. Tie off your old warp behind the heddles in groups of the number that is on each section on the beam. (Working from the warp beam end)Use a knot like when you tie your shoe so that when get ready to tie on your new warp it will be easy to untie. Cut off old warp as you tie off each group. Put a new warp on the sectional beam. Now tie on the new warp, section by section. I have found a square knot pulled tight with the loose ends trimmed will go through the heddles and the reed with little trouble. This knot will not slip or untie. That is the knot the manufacturers use on spools of warp thread when they have to splice the thread.(Now from fabric beam end, like you are sitting to weave) After tying off all the warp threads, advance the fabric beam and pull the new warp through the heddles and the reed. Again cut and tie the warp ahead of the reed this time, and remove your finished woven piece then retie your new warp onto the fabric beam.This is how I add a new warp when it's time. And it works for me. steve104c (retired)