Hi,

I'm increasing the  shafts on my 40 inch Ideal loom from four to eight.  Although the new treadles have finish on them I'm noticing that the shaft bars and the bars for the horizontal countermarche do not.  I have a can of Watson Danish finish in natural which I know is quite simple to use.  I think I'd like to use it so that my new parts blend in a little better; am I overlooking anything?  Will what I have on hand work well in this situation?  Thanks.

Diane

Comments

Davie Hannaford Jr

Hi Diane,

The Danish finish is a good choice.

Remember to put the rags in a sealed glass or metal container, preferably with the rags covered in water.

I had to put out a fire on my neighbor's back yard because of this over sight.  I also had a customer of mine who's multi-million $$ home burn to the ground because of a rag.

Have fun with the new upgrade to your loom.

Davie

Diane Roeder (not verified)

Davie,

Thanks... I'll proceed with the Danish finish.  Thanks also for the safety reminder.  A nice home in my town actually burned to the ground last weekend because of a rag combusting spontaneously.   

Diane

Joanne Hall

We are at the Midwest weaving conference and I don't have a keyboard, so this will be short.  Be careful with the shaft bars or they will get too slippery.  Some of the loom parts are not finished because the natural wood is the best finish for their function,  or it is not necessary to finish them. Have fun with the new shafts.

Joanne

Diane Roeder (not verified)

Thanks for that caveat Joanne.  The shafts on the loom are smoother than the new shaft bars and seemed like there was some sort of finish applied years ago.  I do notice that the heddles slip when shafts are depressed although it doesn't seem to create a problem.  I'll just wipe some of the Watco on the horizontal countermarche bars... and the lamms when they arrive.

Diane

Chris B

For other weavers who are about to refinish their looms:

When refinishing a dinged up Glimakra recently, I discovered that some of its members are covered with a veneer.  Because the loom is located in a humid climate, I decided I needed to guard those veneers from peeling away from the non-veneered wood behind.  I consulted Daly's in Seattle (very humid climate) and received excellent advice.  Their products are available throughout the U.S. or order directly.  The first step was application of their Benite which readies the pores of the wood for the subsequent finish layers.  Then I chose to use their Crystal Fin - 2 coats, an acrylic.  Between each coat it is necessary to lightly buff the last with a fine sandpaper so that there is some tooth for the next coat of CF to cling to.  To avoid skips, I found I had to almost flood on each layer and could not back brush, something Daly's cautions against doing.

Chris

Joanne Hall

I know that this is not the subject of your message, but would like to clarify.  The word laminated is used when describing Glimakra beams and framing parts.  They are laminated for strength and to keep them from warping.  These laminated parts are usually more than 1/2 inch thick. Most beams are made up of two, three or more boards.

Veneer refers to a very thin layer of a surface wood, often seen in furniture to economize on the expensive surface wood.  If your loom has a veneer, then it probably is not a Glimakra loom. 

If you think it is a Glimakra loom, please send photos and we can identify it.

Joanne

beaverly

Hi Joanne, Chris is embedded without internet accessibility right now.  He asked me to reply with the following:

He was not the owner of the loom, only the refinisher.  He recalls taking great care to not sand away the "Glimakra" imprint, which he recalls was on the top bar of the beater, nor the numerical imprint on the bottom member of one of the gables.  He has no access to the loom to provide you a photo.

Hope this helps.

Beaverly

 

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