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Crimp Sample #4

Sally Orgren's picture
Finished sample, with 5 different wefts and treadlings.
Here is the full warp, front face, with the weft selections and pattern treadlings, depicted in white pull threads
Front of warp, spread to see pull pattern. From right to left, 16/2 orlec, blue sewing thread, 8/2 tencel with burgundy sewing thread.
Front of warp, spread out to see pull pattern. From right to left, 8/2 tencel with burgundy sewing thread, Velura, and 16/2 Orlec lilac.
Project Status: 
Project Date: 
Wed, 02/19/2014 - Thu, 02/20/2014
Yarn: 8/2 Tencel
Color: fuschia, lipstick, eggplant
Type: warp
Loom Used: 
Voyageur table loom
Number of Shafts: 
Number of Treadles: 
24.00 EPI
Length on Loom: 
1.50 yd
Width on Loom: 
8.00 in
Finished Length: 
53.00 in
Finished Width: 
3.00 in

This sample got warped and woven in just over 24 hours.

My observations - it might be a waste of material for me to use tencel for warp. The cloth felt good off the loom, but definitely more "crunchy" after steaming. I was expecting soft and silky. (Steamed for 25 minutes on the stovetop). Perhaps the heat changes the molecular structure of tencel slightly, as it does the polyester to a much greater degree? I read the crimping factor isn't caused by the steam, but rather the cooling process. I also read that the oven (with moisture) works, but not the microwave. I will look forward to learning more about this aspect of the technique in the workshop!


Weft samples, from top to bottom, (or right to left), depending on which photo:

#1 16/2 Orlec burgundy, treadled 1,2,3,2 repeat. 6 pics between pulls, 3 pull/pattern repeats

#2 Blue serger sewing thread, treadled 4,1,2,3,2,1 repeat. 8 pics between pulls, 2 pull/pattern repeats

#3 8/2 Tencel with burgundy sewing thread, treadled 12, 34. (Idea was to create pleat rows instead of diamonds). 6 pics between pulls, 6 pull/pattern repeats

#4 Velura (Silk City), Same treadling as sample #1. 6 pics between pulls, 3 pull/pattern repeats

#5 16/2 Orlec lilac, treadled the "reverse" i.e. "everything but 1", "everything but 2", "everything but 3" and then reverse direction. 6 pics between pulls. 3 pulls at the beginning, then reduced to 2 pulls/pattern repeats. And finally, eliminated the "everything but 1" and just alternated between 134 vs 124. As expected the pattern showed up on the reverse side.


So far, I prefer the 16/2 or 10/2 cotton for warp, and the Velura or sewing thread for weft to deliver the softness and suppleness I was seeking.

The 16/2 Orlec is okay, but I think it still feels crunchy when finished, especially with the Tencel. At the workshop, I plan to sample the 16/2 Orlec with the cotton and see if that is an improvement. I definitely prefer the 16/2 Orlec over the 8/2 Orlon in size, but I think the resulting fabric would still be a jacket weight, not so much a blouse or summery scarf in my opinion.

I also don't like too much contrast in the warp with distinctive striping. I want a colorful warp so I am not bored out of my mind to weave it, but I don't want to look clownish wearing it! ;-)

I also changed the draft again — this time widening the overshot blocks to 12 warps. (So I am at 2x what I started with and what was recommended in the directions.) I was looking at the ratio of pull repeats to the floats, to get an idea of what the pleat cell size would be. That's why sometimes I did 2 or 3 or 6. 

I think I am getting a handle on the patterning, so I will look forward to more play with that at the workshop. Glad I spent the time to figure some of this out before I put 6 yards (or more!) on the loom.

FYI, here is the latest revised draft-

Your rating: None Average: 5 (3 votes)
Cathie Beckman's picture
Joined: 08/05/2010
I have found your

I have found your experimentation fascinating, Sally. I really like the above pictured ( primary photo) overshot with sewing thread.
Thanks for posting, can't wait to see what you do in the workshop!

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slhuber's picture
Joined: 06/11/2013
Crimp & Create workshop

I'm in my "loom room" ready to tie the warp onto the front apron rod for the Crimp & Create seminar next week, & thought I'd google search first, and your post came up. How fun to find it today, as I gather supplies for Monday. I have to admit I don't speak weaving fluently enough to understand all that you share here. But what I see is wonderful & I'm looking forward to learning more :-)

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Sally Orgren's picture
Joined: 06/08/2009
hey Sandy!

I'm warped and ready to weave. See you on Monday!

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