I've recently become fascinated by supplemental warps (like 2 hours ago) so of course I want to know everything there is to know and be able to do it well in the next 2 hours.  LOL - not gonna happen.

 

I would like to turn an overshot pattern and weave it as a supplemental warp.  I do have 8 shafts at my disposal.  I think I understand what needs to happen is I thread weave on 1 &2 with my ground thread (my traditional tabby) and I would thread 3-6 with supplemental warp (the traditional pattern weft) and weave away.  I have picture in my mind a shawl with only about a 2" band of overshot running lengthwise with perhaps a couple of random supplemental warp strips thrown in. 

Comments? Thoughts? Resources? Examples?  -

Off to Fiberworks I go to put it on paper and see if it works the way I think it should.

 

 

 

Comments

Bonnie Inouye (not verified)

Barbara Walker is a master of this. Look up some of her articles in weaving magazines over the last 15 years or so.

As with most supplementary warp weaves, the pattern warp interlaces less frequently than the ground warp so it will need added weight to keep it from going slack as your piece grows on the loom.

Bonnie

ReedGuy

It can be done without a second beam on short warps with a dowel or lease stick secured below to the loom frame. Or rig up weights. Laila Lundell illustrates it in her book and there are others. You might get tired of adjusting weights and/or cords but could be an interesting adventure.  ;)

loomyladi (not verified)

There was a class taught at Convergence that involved using PL Angel Wings to separate and hold the supplemental.  It was good for business.  I'll go looking for articles.  Thanks a bunch.

 

sandra.eberhar…

Two things that I have heard about turned overshot (I looked into it because I wanted to weave large coverlets with one shuttle): it doesn't look quite like weft overshot, and you don't have the option of changing weft colors for a long warp for several coverlets.  I decided against it, mostly because the loom I wanted to use can't do two beams, and it would be very difficult to deal with weights.

ReedGuy

Yeah, I wouldn't do long warps of overshot with weights and dowels or any other weave. After awhile you have the potential to be on the floor and have to get more elaborate tensioning the warp. Also if you use a  pattern yarn that is more elastic than say a cotton ground cloth you might not like how the cloth wet finishes unless your very carefull how it is tensioned.

Andrew Kieran (not verified)

seems to me it's a case of good for one, not so good for another.

For longer lengths I reckon it'd be a quicker weave-up as you'll no have to put in so many picks. Also, you won't have to change the shuttle 'cause you'll just be weaving the ground picks. So, I guess if I was going to do a long warp for production purposes I'd do it this way with a couple of beams 'cause I could rattle a whole bunch off nice and quick. If you had seperate beams for ground and floats you could always do shorter floating warps and tie the next onto the last.

If I was just gonna make 3 or 4 coverlets on a shortish warp though I guess I'd do it weft-ways. Less to think about I reckon. More flexibility in colour and so on I reckon, like said above.

ReedGuy

Madelyn of Weaver's Studio used to weave them a lot to sell she said in her overshot video, and from what I understand she wove weft pattern overshot. What she may have modified was the way halftoning was woven, she may have used checked halftoning instead of the traditional grid fashion. I think if I was going to do warp patterning I would sample the yarns used. I think probably it goes without saying for most folks anyway. You might be surprised for example with the results with wool on cotton if the tension on that wool is not just right. It might sound nice to weave with one weft, but the results may not be what you expect.