I have a 135 cm Glimakra Standard and have now expanded it to 12 shafts. I'm trying to find the "perfect" place to sit for threading. I've moved the countermarche to the back and sat on a stool, but this is only fine if all the lamms and all the treadles have been removed and I'd rather not do that every time I put on a new warp! Once I took off the breast beam and moved my bench in behind the cloth beam but I had to let my legs hang down over the cloth beam and they just dangled there - not too comfortable. Does anyone have a "favorite" way to sit for threading?

Virginia in NJ

Comments

Cathy (not verified)

My Glimakra Standard is 12 shafts and 12 treadles.  My bench (also Glimakra) fits inside the loom straddling the treadles, so I don't have to remove my lams and treadles to thread.  I just lower my bench seat, and raise the shafts using the shaft holders so that everything is at a comfortable height.  

Sara von Tresckow

I simply remove the breast and knee beams, put the bench over the treadles and thread - OR thread in standing. I actually find that standing inside the frame, just in front of the cloth beam gives me the best freedom of movement.

If the shaft height is not comfy, use the shaft holders to move them up or down.

fairhavenweaver (not verified)

Thanks, Cathy, I'm trying that now. I had to find a new way to support the lease sticks so they would be in the right spot. I actually used a pair of angel wings secured by a rubber band to the side supports. Not perfect, but it works! So far, so good.

 

fairhavenweaver (not verified)

I never thought to thread standing up. You don't find that more tiring than sitting down? I will have to try it.

Sara von Tresckow

Actually, standing gives you better oversight of the process.

As for the lease sticks - 2 pieces of any scrap yarn will hang them anywhere on the frame that you deem practical. By retying them as you progress through warping, you have more flexibility than with angel wings or other fixed position devices. To keep them from  moving forward, simply use those 2 strings to affix them to the back beam and leave them in until your warp is finished. You can then cross threads behind the sticks and do all manner of little things to assist you in keeping the warp evenly tensioned during the weaving process.

fairhavenweaver (not verified)

Thank you, Sara - much helpful advice!

Joanne Hall

Hi fairhavenweaver,

You mentioned removing the treadle cords for being able to move the shafts to the back of the loom.  This isn't necessary.  I take out the 8 pins which hold the lamms (four shaft weave, two sets of lamms).  I put a small mark on the hole where the pin goes into the cord.  This makes it easy to put them back in after I am finished threading and sleying the reed, as I know which hole the pin goes into. 

Doing this allows you to push the shafts to the back of the loom for threading.  But, even more important, it releases all that treadle weight from the shafts, which make the threading MUCH easier.  The heddles are now very flexible and not stretched by the weight of the treadles.

To put the pins back in, it is helpful if the treadles are held up.  So, before I take those 8 pins out, I put a cardboard box under the treadles.  This holds them up so taking the pins out and putting them back is very easy.

I replaced the cardboard box with a small wooden stand I had Ed make for me.  It is simply three pieces of wood, like a miniature bench. 

I explain this in my new book, Learning to Warp your Loom.

Joanne

 

fairhavenweaver (not verified)

Thanks, Joanne! I understand what you mean about just removing the lamm cords and will do that for future warps. I happened to have all the treadles and lamms out anyway because I had to drill new holes in them to accommodate 12 shafts (yup, that's me!) and the stool I was using has a flat bottom so if the treadles were in, I couldn't use it. Also, with 12 shafts and the countermarche at the back, there wasn't much room for the stool and me; I kind of felt like my face was in the middle of the heddles! My warp has 1584 threads, so I have lots of opportunity to move things around and try different positions. A whole new learning curve with a new loom.

Virginia