I have a mini tri & square loom. I have been making squares w/the plan to crochet the separate squares together to make a scarf. The instructions I got w/ the looms state to remove the weaving  from the loom & to wash in warm soapy water to cause the yarns to come together. Would I do this before I crochet the separate pieces together or afterward?

 

TIA

Kelly

Comments

miukat (not verified)

 I'm new to weaving, but as in knitting or crocheting, I would block each piece separately before assembling.  Maybe it wouldn't matter so much for a scarf, but it will be hard to tell how many need for the finished size without washing first.  You can make sure all your sides are even and your square is flat , which will also speed up the assembly process and make it neater.

Michael White

Kelly, Top of the day to you. Your weaving are not done untill they are "wet finshed". Like Miukat said you will not know the finsh size untill everything has shrink. by the way you have "horny sheep) (g) My wife is from England the land of Jacob sheep. Please remember if you are using your sheep's wool for the squares to keep the wash water and the raise water temp the same.

Michael

Fireflyfibergirl (not verified)

Thanks for the answers. I'll start wet finishing the squares before assembly.

And yes we do have horny sheep- we like to use our Jacob sheep's horns as handles when we have to grab them for hoof trimming & such. Makes it much easier.

 

Kelly

TinaHilton (not verified)

But then will you have trouble because the yarn used to crochet the squares together will shrink after assembly?  For example, if I crochet squares to make an afghan I wouldn't think of washing the squares before crocheting them together.  Or is it different because the squares are woven?

I'm curious to hear how this goes and hope you'll post your results Kelly.  I have these mini looms too and want to use some of my handspun on them to make a blanket.  I hadn't thought of whether it would be better to wash before assembly or not.

ourqueensue (not verified)

I joined 2 6 foot triangles. I chain bound them off the loom, tucked all the ends in and  then washed and blocked the square.  By finishing it this way, the binding was blocked with the piece and looks very flat.

Michael White

Hi Kelly, what most people do not know is that Jacob sheep have "4" horns. Two large and two smaller ones, making them very horny. How many do you have?

Michael 

Loominaria (not verified)

Yes, I think you would need to wash/full a sample of both the weaving and the crochet to know what hook size will be compatible with the weaving, unless you've been one of those odd people who has kept so many records of yarn setts and gauges that you can just look in your project diary and make a very educated guess. It depends on the method of crocheting together also. I find the zig-zag slip stitch join to be quite forgiving.  Solid single (US)/double (rest of the world) crochet join is solid and needs to match gauge. And matching gauge on the tri-loom edges can be extra fun, because the edge loops have different spacing on the hypotenuse and the shorter sides.

The eLoomanation site has a slip stitch join through overlapped edges that I want to try that's probably more forgiving than solid single/double crochet.  Meanwhile, I usually use baseball stitch or overcast to sew modular pieces together.

Good luck, Kelly, and here's a second vote for posting your results.

Kurt

Michele (not verified)

 What if you wanted to allow the yarn (in this case a handspun recycled sari silk) to just loosen up - I do not want to block the triangles as I want them to finish a free form shawl.  I am going totally relaxed on this one and just want the yarn to do as it wants.

I have one of the triangles I took off the loom and the yarn is very overspun, I may just experiment with it!!

Any suggestions?

 

Michele