Article Ideas

Got an idea for something you'd like to see in the next WeaveZine?  Let me know!


Posted on Tue, 08/18/2009 - 14:04

hi, this looks like its made from copper pipe, similar to the Archie Brennan loom. If you go to your hardware store (and get a friendly assistant to help, hehe!) they will cut the pipe to the size you want, then you need the 4 corners, and it all slots together. The loom in a tube and the Brennan looms have tension devices in them, basically threaded steel, with the nuts, and attachments, so you can adjust the length to compensate for warp take-up. If you want to add a heddle bar, again its just a matter of cutting the pipe where you want to put it, getting 2 T pieces, then the bar across, and a bit extra for the side risers with another 2 corner pieces. A lot of this you can add on after you have your basic loom.

Because of the corner pieces, you can take the loom apart to store it or take it traveling. You could do the same with a home built Navajo loom too if you use bolts at the corners, and I have a Journey loom that comes in a cloth quiver that can be dismantled with the weaving on, so it works for most tapestry style looms unless they are glued and screwed together. Just because its a tapestry style loom doesn't mean you are limited to tapestry weaving - I have experimented on a wooden frame loom  with four sheds using string heddles. It was much easier than I thought it would be.

The ultimate in a small portable loom has to be the backstrap loom, a belt, and an assortment of dowels and plenty of smooth string for heddles and off you go. I hook mine up to a large hook in a wooden window frame. I also use it for tablet weaving ( made from a pack of playing cards) so it doesn't get much cheaper or easier than that. There is an active backstrap weaving group on here that is starting a beginners Weave-along, as well as a group for TWIST, the tablet weavers. If you google both techniques, there are plenty of instructions on the web, so you don't even need to start off with a book!

Hope this gives you an idea of the options available to you that don't cost the proverbial arm and a leg, and don't take up space - well not much, anyway!

Posted on Tue, 08/25/2009 - 15:37

 I'd like to see an article on warping (I can't be the only one that loathes it) explaining the difference between front to back and back to front and their merits along with any tips and tricks for making the process go smoothly.



Posted on Tue, 08/25/2009 - 16:23

It sounds like you need to read Peg Osterkamp's books - she has so much info & tips that you will stop loathing and look forward to trying yet another warp improving technique!  My library intraloaned them for me so budget doesn't have to stand in your way.   Liese

Posted on Sat, 08/29/2009 - 16:03

I tried (in vain) yesterday to upload a video clip showing beaming a 5 metre long warp (the clip was 10 minutes, actual beaming took 6 minutes) but had to abort after 9 hours.

Not sure why it wouldn't load.  :(

Anyway, dressing the loom doesn't have to be a pain, feared and loathed. 

Personally I don't like front to back beaming but many others find no difficulty with it.  However, that said, I beamed front to back for several years and switched when I got tired of the tangles and hours of work required to roll the warp onto the beam, especially as I began to routinely use much finer threads, wider and longer warps.  Much easier and faster (IMHO) to dress the loom back to front.

For more info on dressing the loom, I have some info on my website - there is a slide show showing sectional beaming (and me, 20+ years ago doing it) and info on using a warping valet to beam a painted warp done a couple of years ago.




Posted on Thu, 09/03/2009 - 21:30

 Thanks for the pointer, I'll have to give that a go. I'll see if my local librarian friend can help.

I'm always fascinated by the collected wisdom of weavers though. So many little things that don't get included in books as they are often second nature to the author. I found that when I taught some tablet weaving for my local SCA, I got several comments along the lines of "Oh, so *that's* how you do that!". You seem to get that kind of tip from Weavezine too. I love it as it provides a less formal weaving setting than a book and allows those little gems of advice to come out.


Posted on Thu, 09/03/2009 - 21:38

 Thank you for the advice. Through Weavezine and Weavecast, you are becoming a bit of a personal weaving heroine of mine. I'll definitely take a look at your website. Now if you don't mind I shall now go and make happy fangirl noises in a corner somewhere.


Posted on Fri, 10/30/2009 - 11:51

Hi Dianne,

I understand you! I remember  what it was like, and for me the additional hurdle of not being an English speaker. I once found a very practical list in "Handwoven" that I printed out, and have it here next to me. I don't know if it can be found online, but I'll have a look,

here it is :

Hope this helps :-)


Posted on Fri, 10/30/2009 - 12:16

Glad to hear it. And maybe to others, too, if they happen to find it in here. It is becoming quite a big place, this weavolution, isn't it?

PS I thought you knew everything , :-0

Posted on Tue, 11/17/2009 - 15:09

I use a lot of the "Folkwear" patterns which are not cheap, so I don't want them cut up (they print several sizes on each sheet).  I trace my patterns on to cheap muslin and it folds neatly into the envelope with the original pattern. Also easy to pull out to iron it flat again.  If you use more than one size, you can write on the muslins with magic-maker and pin them together.  It's also easy to pin to your weaving as it won't either tear or lump up.

Nancy c.

I also recently discovered "Fray Block" which is great for anything that might show.   Otherwise any of the "fray" glues will work (the others seem to cause some discolouration, which is why I like the "block" version, but "FrayStop" "Sobo" etc are good for "working" edges.