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Submitted by Syne Mitchell on Thu, 06/11/2009 - 19:36
Got an idea for something you'd like to see in the next WeaveZine? Let me know!
I'd love to see an article on useing 2 heddles on a riggid heddle loom.
I'd love to see a basic how-to on rigid heddle weaving techniques. For example, some folks on the Yahoo group explained about beating before changing the shed for better selvedges. Another really recommends use of a temple. A summary of tips and tricks would be helpful to many, I think. Thanks for your great work, Syne!
I was listening to episode 26 of Weavecast last night, and loved to hear all about Daryl Lancasters approach to sewing with handwovens. A thought struck me. Could you get Daryl to write an artice (and include lots of pictures) for Weavezine on how she transfers her sewing patterns so that she can save the original pattern uncut? Also, could Daryl include tips for how to go about cutting handwoven fabrics? I've always wondered if I should zigzag stitch each cut piece before sewing them together to prevent fraying.
I'm definitly to the point where I'm ready to cut into my fabric but the idea still scares the bejebus out of me!
Can I second the 2-heddle request, please? There have been quite a few requests for information on this technique on the various Yahoo groups recently, and although I have the Ashford kit and instructions for my Knitters Loom, and also have the book on 3-heddle weaving, there is actually not that much around. The instructions in Betty Davenports Rigid Heddle Weaving appear to be the same as the Ashford instructions. Its not so much a how to for every single draft possible but an explanation of the technique so that we can work by ourselves without the hit and miss "lets see if this works" approach.
I'm another fan of Weavezine and eagerly look forward to your weekly updates, as well as rummaging through the archives!
I would love to see a glossary of weave structures - with pictures! As a newbie I had no idea what, for example, shadow weave meant. What did it look like? Why was it called 'shadow' weave? How many shafts do you need to achieve it? What sort of fabric does it make and what are the best uses for it? Even now, there are big holes in my understanding of weave structures, as I'm only learning by stumbling upon the information.
The only glossary I've seen so far had very technical descriptions and didn't show any examples. I found it incomprehensible. It would be so good when reading a forum discussion to be able to look up the terms I don't yet know and not have to be an expert weaver to understand them.
I don't know how Daryl does it, but I just take a big roll of tracing paper and trace off the pattern in my size (and you can blend sizes and lengthen/shorten here ) then cut that and use it. I do that for all my sewing - especially kids stuff so I can make it in the next size up when they grow.
I'd like to learn about handling large warps on a modest loom. I want blankets and curtains and full-sized rugs. This means weaving longer strips than my cloth beam will accomodate, and getting long warps on without going sectional is a challenge. I'm always looking for newer better strategies.
I too would love an article by Daryl! I read her blog and am amazed at her beautiful clothes and I get really inspired, but if feels somewhat daunting.
A sort of basic "how to sew with handwoven" tricks of the trade. What sort of patterns are good, how to prevent fraying, what sort of fabric is good for clothes, anything really.
Another thing that I'd like to read about, is weaving traditions from different parts of the world. What's the main differences between Swedish, North American, Hungarian weaving (that's just an example - any culture is fascinating). Is it the looms, the yarns, the patterns, the techniques - or is there simply no real difference to talk about?
I just now found this forum thread that seems to be related to the group. Thanks for all the article suggestions. Daryl has a lot of information about sewing with handwovens on her site (and I believe sells a monograph on the subject) but I'll also check in with her.
There already is one double-heddle project on WeaveZine: http://www.weavezine.com/summer2008/wz_su08_JanePatrick.php
And there are some more 2-heddle projects in the production schedule. So stay tuned!
Hmm... That's a really interesting idea!
I had a workshop with Daryl several years ago at MAFA to make the Daryl Jacket. The class goal was to get the jackets made enough to model in the fashion show. I remember sitting there, with scissors in had, pattern laid out, frozen. Daryl walked up, asked if this was how I wanted my pattern placed, & then took her scissors & slashed my handwoven material. She said, there, now you can get cutting.
I would love to hear anything from Daryl writing on anything!
Joan in Jamestown
PS Yes, most of us did walk the stage in our new jackets, some parts held together with pins.
I've got good news for all the folks who wanted to see Daryl write for WeaveZine... big things are in the works on that account. Thanks for the suggestions!
I love Weavzine!! I'd like to read an article analyzing in detail the work of a master weavers, like Anni Albers or Jack lenor Larsen. I'd like to see a piece totally dissected- set,, fiber content, structure, etc.
XO Gail & Fog
In the most recent "Handwoven" (Sept/Oct 2009) on pg 12 there is an interesting little loom called a "Loom in a Tube".
I'd love to see a review on this in particular how it would work for weaving tapestry. I'm really new to tapestry weaving and can't afford either financially or space wise to invest in another loom. This intrigues me but as always I like to get other's opinions and experiences before I put my money out.
I second this. It would be of great interest to me too!
hi, this looks like its made from copper pipe, similar to the Archie Brennan loom. If you go to your hardware store (and get a friendly assistant to help, hehe!) they will cut the pipe to the size you want, then you need the 4 corners, and it all slots together. The loom in a tube and the Brennan looms have tension devices in them, basically threaded steel, with the nuts, and attachments, so you can adjust the length to compensate for warp take-up. If you want to add a heddle bar, again its just a matter of cutting the pipe where you want to put it, getting 2 T pieces, then the bar across, and a bit extra for the side risers with another 2 corner pieces. A lot of this you can add on after you have your basic loom.
Because of the corner pieces, you can take the loom apart to store it or take it traveling. You could do the same with a home built Navajo loom too if you use bolts at the corners, and I have a Journey loom that comes in a cloth quiver that can be dismantled with the weaving on, so it works for most tapestry style looms unless they are glued and screwed together. Just because its a tapestry style loom doesn't mean you are limited to tapestry weaving - I have experimented on a wooden frame loom with four sheds using string heddles. It was much easier than I thought it would be.
The ultimate in a small portable loom has to be the backstrap loom, a belt, and an assortment of dowels and plenty of smooth string for heddles and off you go. I hook mine up to a large hook in a wooden window frame. I also use it for tablet weaving ( made from a pack of playing cards) so it doesn't get much cheaper or easier than that. There is an active backstrap weaving group on here that is starting a beginners Weave-along, as well as a group for TWIST, the tablet weavers. If you google both techniques, there are plenty of instructions on the web, so you don't even need to start off with a book!
Hope this gives you an idea of the options available to you that don't cost the proverbial arm and a leg, and don't take up space - well not much, anyway!
I'd like to see an article on warping (I can't be the only one that loathes it) explaining the difference between front to back and back to front and their merits along with any tips and tricks for making the process go smoothly.
It sounds like you need to read Peg Osterkamp's books - she has so much info & tips that you will stop loathing and look forward to trying yet another warp improving technique! My library intraloaned them for me so budget doesn't have to stand in your way. Liese
I tried (in vain) yesterday to upload a video clip showing beaming a 5 metre long warp (the clip was 10 minutes, actual beaming took 6 minutes) but had to abort after 9 hours.
Not sure why it wouldn't load. :(
Anyway, dressing the loom doesn't have to be a pain, feared and loathed.
Personally I don't like front to back beaming but many others find no difficulty with it. However, that said, I beamed front to back for several years and switched when I got tired of the tangles and hours of work required to roll the warp onto the beam, especially as I began to routinely use much finer threads, wider and longer warps. Much easier and faster (IMHO) to dress the loom back to front.
For more info on dressing the loom, I have some info on my website http://laurafry.com - there is a slide show showing sectional beaming (and me, 20+ years ago doing it) and info on using a warping valet to beam a painted warp done a couple of years ago.
Thanks for the pointer, I'll have to give that a go. I'll see if my local librarian friend can help.
I'm always fascinated by the collected wisdom of weavers though. So many little things that don't get included in books as they are often second nature to the author. I found that when I taught some tablet weaving for my local SCA, I got several comments along the lines of "Oh, so *that's* how you do that!". You seem to get that kind of tip from Weavezine too. I love it as it provides a less formal weaving setting than a book and allows those little gems of advice to come out.
Thank you for the advice. Through Weavezine and Weavecast, you are becoming a bit of a personal weaving heroine of mine. I'll definitely take a look at your website. Now if you don't mind I shall now go and make happy fangirl noises in a corner somewhere.
Fangirl noises are appreciated. :) Much better than flames! :DDDDD
I'd love to see a product review comparing loom benches, along with tips on factors to weigh.
Why not start a group to post their own reviews of the benches we all use. I have a Toika and I love it.
As I'm in the market for yet another loom, yes it's a bit of an addiction, I'd love to see some regular loom review features!
As a new weaver, I would love to see a Weaver's Glossary to tell us what all these terms and names exactly mean.
I understand you! I remember what it was like, and for me the additional hurdle of not being an English speaker. I once found a very practical list in "Handwoven" that I printed out, and have it here next to me. I don't know if it can be found online, but I'll have a look,
here it is : www.interweave.com/weave/projects_articles/weaving-terms.pdf
Hope this helps :-)
That page will be a big help to me! Thank you Ellen!
Glad to hear it. And maybe to others, too, if they happen to find it in here. It is becoming quite a big place, this weavolution, isn't it?
PS I thought you knew everything , :-0
Rolling around laughing here!!
Thank you Ellen!
who just got home from Michael's with an armload of sticks. :->
I use a lot of the "Folkwear" patterns which are not cheap, so I don't want them cut up (they print several sizes on each sheet). I trace my patterns on to cheap muslin and it folds neatly into the envelope with the original pattern. Also easy to pull out to iron it flat again. If you use more than one size, you can write on the muslins with magic-maker and pin them together. It's also easy to pin to your weaving as it won't either tear or lump up.
I also recently discovered "Fray Block" which is great for anything that might show. Otherwise any of the "fray" glues will work (the others seem to cause some discolouration, which is why I like the "block" version, but "FrayStop" "Sobo" etc are good for "working" edges.